There is a cable that runs from the main throttle bell crank over the top of the starter motor, down to the driver's side of the auto box. Contrary to popular belief, this isn't the kick down cable. Anyhoo, it seems that over time this cable gets a bit scratchy and has a tendency to stick. When on the throttle it pulls out, but on release it should snap back nice and smoooooth. But it doesn't. It drags and this can affect gear changes. There does seem to be a few of these popping up at the moment and perhaps it's a symptom of age. So, swapping it seems sensible. Well. be prepared for a shock as Mr T will require some eighty of your English pounds which is frankly ludicrous But what can you do.
I changed mine today and there is definitely a difference in response and throttle feel. But enough of that. This is just for the knowledge archives. Just for those who follow on, here's a hint that will turn a frustrating job into a simple one.
To start with you need to drain the ATF and remove the pan. Simple enough. You can see the cam where the cable is attached and disconnecting this end is not difficult. A pair of needle nosed angled pliers is handy. The cable can be pulled up out of the side of the box. You are supposed to thread the end of the cable through a small diameter socket so that you can push the plastic gland (which is barbed) up out of its hole. But mine was broken and as it's being replaced, who cares. Give it a good tug or a shove with a flat blade.
Now, what you will then encounter is a clamp placed fiendishly out of reach (to all but those with crippling arthritis) on top of the transmission. It needs a 12 mm socket. Here's the tip then.
Place a jack under the centre transfer box, undo the middle cross member bolts and lower the whole transmission about 4 inches. This gives you so much room on top of the box that you can actually get a 1/4 drive ratchet on there. This whole procedure took me less than 15 mins. There is a tie wrap too that hold the cable to a bundle of wires down there. I just snicked that and didn't bother replacing it.
Then it's a case of disconnecting the bell crank end, pulling the old cable out, shoving a new one through, reconnecting each end, cleaning and reattaching the sump plus a refill of ATF. Not really the nightmare that I thought it was gong to be when I first found the clamp!
Chris
I changed mine today and there is definitely a difference in response and throttle feel. But enough of that. This is just for the knowledge archives. Just for those who follow on, here's a hint that will turn a frustrating job into a simple one.
To start with you need to drain the ATF and remove the pan. Simple enough. You can see the cam where the cable is attached and disconnecting this end is not difficult. A pair of needle nosed angled pliers is handy. The cable can be pulled up out of the side of the box. You are supposed to thread the end of the cable through a small diameter socket so that you can push the plastic gland (which is barbed) up out of its hole. But mine was broken and as it's being replaced, who cares. Give it a good tug or a shove with a flat blade.
Now, what you will then encounter is a clamp placed fiendishly out of reach (to all but those with crippling arthritis) on top of the transmission. It needs a 12 mm socket. Here's the tip then.
Place a jack under the centre transfer box, undo the middle cross member bolts and lower the whole transmission about 4 inches. This gives you so much room on top of the box that you can actually get a 1/4 drive ratchet on there. This whole procedure took me less than 15 mins. There is a tie wrap too that hold the cable to a bundle of wires down there. I just snicked that and didn't bother replacing it.
Then it's a case of disconnecting the bell crank end, pulling the old cable out, shoving a new one through, reconnecting each end, cleaning and reattaching the sump plus a refill of ATF. Not really the nightmare that I thought it was gong to be when I first found the clamp!
Chris