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Alternator failing or.....

Bat21

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During our Morocco trip for some reason the volt meter started dipping and rising in time with the flashes of the indicators. This happens with the left or right indicators but not with the hazard flashers on, it happens if the engine is running or not. Looking from the outside of the truck, all the indicators work fine :think:

The other day I went to start her up and there was only just enough power in the battery(s) to get her going. As I we did 40/50 miles that day I thought that would charge her up, although I wasn't sure what had flattened the batteries in the first place.

Today I went to use her and she was lifeless :cry: but strangely, holding the key in start position did manage to turn her over, I could count each piston rising, 1-2-3 then all of a sudden she came to life.... amazing trucks these.

Once running I decided to check the output of the alternator, 13.4v. Clearly down on output as I'm sure it should be around 14.5v :cry:

Now, has this weird indicator thing caused the alternator to fail or, has the failing alternator caused the indicator issue :think:

I guess the only way to find out is to fork out £120 for one of these and see if the indicator issue goes away.

Anyone had this before?
 
Does the volt meter drop when you turn on any other electrics?

As in the heater fan or the headlights?
 
Does the volt meter drop when you turn on any other electrics?

As in the heater fan or the headlights?
 
No, nothing else effects it, just indicators left and right.... but not hazard flashers.
 
Seriously doubt its your alternator then, if its not kicking out the juice any electrical should affect it your voltage not just one specific thing.

That's a short of some description in your indicator circuit, causing the battery drain then when the truck is parked up too. Now you can start the fun game of locating it!!

You could also pull the fuse for the indicators when your parked up or disconnect batteries to avoid the discharge aspect until you find it cause because you'll wreck your batteries if you leave them getting overly discharged like that.

Not sure why your alternator voltage is low too though, but the indicator thing is separate. Pull the fuse for the indicators and try your alternator voltage again and see what its like then.
 
Great... and just as winter is approaching :cry:
 
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I've had my 80 18 years now and the voltmeter has always gone up and down with the indicator. My Audi did it as well for 240,000 miles! Just the way the voltmeter is wired in I suspect. Toyo wires are a bit thin.

Frank
 
Maybe mine has too Frank and I've just not noticed it before.... what about the hazards, does it do the same when you switch those on?
 
To add to the pool, my indicators have always affected the volt meter but not the hazards, switching on the headlights with engine off gets a dip on the needle but not as big a dip with engine running, more noticeable when towing, never worried me because my 40 series was the same.
 
Just been out to the garage and checked my 80, when indicators are flashing the volt meter needle moves fractionally but you have to look close to see it.
 
So it seems the indicator/voltmeter thing is quite possibly normal...... sounds good to me :dance:

I replaced the passenger side battery today and started her up... alternator now kicking out over 14v and is charging all 3 batteries which I was happy to see.

Turns out it was a duff cell in the battery that was dragging the drivers side battery down and causing the alternator to struggle.

Out of interest, is the passenger side battery supposed to be the same size as the drivers side one? I have a Yellow top mounted by the side of it and cant remember if I fitted a smaller one to accommodate the two 4 years ago.
 
mine moves aswell i dont think you should worry
stu
 
Cossack, fractionally? You should have gone to specksavers.:icon-biggrin:

Bat, both batteries are the same dimensions and capacity.

Frank
 
.... Bat, both batteries are the same dimensions and capacity.
Thought that might be the case Frank.

So by reducing the size of the passenger side battery, to accommodate the Yellow top by its side, have I created an inherent load on the smaller battery?

The one I fitted today to the passenger side is one of these. This is the same size as the NuMax that has been there for 3 yrs 3 months.
 
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If you've fitted a smaller passenger side battery (lower AH and CCA ratings) it'll simply lower the overall capacity off both batteries when they're in parallel. If you have a 24v starter with the changeover relay setup the smaller battery will have to work harder and have less in reserve for cold starts.
 
Thought that might be the case Frank.

So by reducing the size of the passenger side battery, to accommodate the Yellow top by its side, have I created an inherent load on the smaller battery?

The one I fitted today to the passenger side is one of these. This is the same size as the NuMax that has been there for 3 yrs 3 months.

Scuse me, a 56Ah Car Battery in an 80? Does anyone know what the standard rating is supposed to be? I've got 2x96Ah batteries in mine :think:
 
If you've fitted a smaller passenger side battery (lower AH and CCA ratings) it'll simply lower the overall capacity off both batteries when they're in parallel. If you have a 24v starter with the changeover relay setup the smaller battery will have to work harder and have less in reserve for cold starts.

Scuse me, a 56Ah Car Battery in an 80? Does anyone know what the standard rating is supposed to be? I've got 2x96Ah batteries in mine :think:
I've had the setup now for over 3 years and never had a problem. Even during the cold days during the winter of 2010 when I had to crank the engine for quite some time to bleed the injectors following the engine rebuild.

It sounds like there should be two battery's of equal size/power but, I've never had a problem.... unless this is what caused the NuMax to fail....
 
Cossack, fractionally? Frank
Yes, fractionally, less than half the width of the needle. Having said that I am also having problems, my alternator doesn't seem to be working properly, with engine running volts showing just 12,86v had starting probs a couple of times today put the charger on overnight will see if it starts OK tomorrow. :pray:
 
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The OE battery spec may vary according to market and model. I have 2 x 70/510's. Looking online at some retailers using their search facility brings up 85/680's or 95/830's.

If you have a 12v starter a smaller battery on one side will be less of a problem than on a 24v starter as the reduction in CCA rating isn't as high. On a 24v start setup the smaller battery will drain quicker than the bigger one and take longer to recover.
 
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The OE battery spec may vary according to market and model. I have 2 x 70/510's. Looking online at some retailers using their search facility brings up 85/680's or 95/830's.

If you have a 12v starter a smaller battery on one side will be less of a problem than on a 24v starter as the reduction in CCA rating isn't as high. On a 24v start setup the lower battery will drain quicker than the bigger one and take longer to recover.

Interesting, thanks Towpack!
 
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