ATF and grease

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Morning guys
Does anyone know of a place that sells synthetic grease for the CV, I can
get synthetic for the wheel bearings but cant seem to find any for the CV.
I changed my ATF yesterday and I could only get 3.5 litres out of it.
The book says it holds 15 litres dry fill.
Now if it holds this amount and you can only get 3.5 litres out at a time
and this is concidered an acceptable fluid change every???? that I could not
find.
It amounts to only 25% of the total in there and yet this is deemed to be
Ok.
So really would you ever get to the stage where you would have changed all
the ATF ever.
At what intervals should the timing belt be changed. I had a look in the
Haynes manual and while it seems to cover various mileage changes I cant
find the timing belt part. Ok maybe I need stronger glasses.
cheers
john 92 HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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Hi John,
I gave up looking. In the US and Aus they are always extolling the virtues of
one of Mobil's synthetic greases - I had a log chat with a local distributor
and it turns out that the what is available in supermarkets in the US and Aus
for pennies isn't available over here - however Mobil to do synthetic
alternatives to the one sold in the US but at three hundred odd quid for a
12.5kg tub. At that point I scrapped the idea of using synthetic and selected
the best dyno grease they had for the wheel bearings and the also for the CVs
and bought a tub of each at around ?90.
Was the gearbox hot? It does help to have it at a slight angle (with the nose
in the air) and also sometimes you can speed things up by cracking open one of
the pipes leading to the oil cooler in the rad, but you will never get it all
out - there is always a lot held in the torque convertor.
all the ATF ever.
The recommended route is to do a complete flush, yes there is some wasteage,
but you get a much higher % change over.
From memory it's 60k miles first time around and then every 100k. You get a
warning light on the dash when it next needs changing.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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Hi Jeff,
Don't forget to ONLY switch it off after you have changed your timing
belt ;-)
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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Guest

Guest
Hey Julian
Thanks for that information. Yea I seem to be coming up against the same
wall regarding the synthetic grease. I always take my time thinking and
rethinking over and over again about things and it would seem that it would
be cheaper and better to replace the grease in the CV more often , so if it
is contaminated at all it gets changed sooner. If you had expensive
synthetic in there you would really be sorry to change it untill you got
your monies worth out of it.
I was laso looking into synthetic gear oil for the diffs and transfere but
the diffs can and do get comtaminated by water and grease, so really have to
weight that one up aswell.
The Auto box now I thought I would be smart and change as much as I could
before I put in the synthetic stuff so what was in there of dino would be
really new stuff.
But it would seem I would have to get it all taken out by a garage to do a
good job instead of pissing in the wind with a lot of changes, which only
adds to the overall cost.
And at ?48 per 5 litres for the synthetic ATF x 3 and the clean /flush out
by the garage, I am having second thoughts.
So if I put it up on ramps front high this would make a difference if I
change it again.???
I thought it was somewhere between the 60 and 100,000 for the timing belt,
but as like most of us I cant relie on the light on the dash cause the belt
has been changed before it was due which just upset the whole system of
warning light.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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John,
You can't change ALL the A/T oil without taking the thing apart as the
torque converter can't be drained just as the rest of the gearbox.
Unless you have boiled A/T oil a few times, there's little point to
muck about oil changes.These things require very little maintenance,
and oil changes are done usually only when such maintenance is
necessary.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
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John,
At the end of the day dino oil and grease has been doing a good job for
years.
The only benefits that I would consider for synthetic oils is if you
are wanting to extend service intervals, but then you need to get into
things like oil testing, etc. If you aren't going into that then I
would just stick to dino oils.
As for the CV joints and wheel bearings, I would aim to do a complete
service and regrease every 25k miles. Synthetic grease may do a better
job at preserving things, but at what extra costs. Does the extra cost
extend the life of the bearings and CV joints enough to justify it's
use - I don't think anyone has actually sat down to work it out - most
people use synthetics because they believe they are better then dino -
I am yet to see anything prooved.
As for getting water and grease in you diff oil, this shouldn't be
happening and if you are concerned about it you should be looking at
the causes. The most common one is the diff breathers getting blocked,
particularly if you still have the factory ones installed.
If you had the standard factory breathers and aren't looking to do much
off roading it is highly recommended that you do the mods listed under
Modifications on the page
http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/breathers.html.
I found with my last 80 that the factory breathers got blocked after
sweating a bit after a long hot run. Fortuntately I caught it in time
so no other damage occurred, but you need to keep an eye on them.
If you are planning on doing some offroading, it is advisable to extend
the breathers usually up into the engine bay - again you can find info
on this via the link above.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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Hey Julian
Already did this a long time ago with the breathers but still like to be me
auld pesimistic self. I always think if it can happen well it will.
Julian a while ago you were saying that the diffs on the LRs are not as
strong as the cruiser.
Its just a guy sent me a few photos of a day out over here with a few of the
LRs and a rear diff broke, not from impact but just broke.
And his attitude was, it happens, and he just fitted a spare he carries.
So what makes the cruiser diffs stronger.
Have you any knowledge of diffs jsut breaking from strain or impact.
cheers
john
 
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Hi John,
Yes it does just happen with LR.
The casting of the axle is much heavier all around. Next time you park
beside a LR compare the dimensions of the axle.
I have come across incidences on other lists of LC axles cracking from
impact, but I seem to recall it was a major impact.
Once you start adding massive wheels and tyres (over 33") and start to give
the car some major abuse off road you will be prone to causing more damage,
but this is usually in the form of snapped CVs or snapped half shafts, I
don't recall actual diff damage.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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Guest

Guest
On Apr 6, 2006, at 10:01 AM, Julian Voelcker wrote:
>> You get a
> warning light on the dash when it next needs changing.
Hi Julian
does this warning light comes just like that-I mean 'automatically'
and so I don't have to worry when should I change the timing belt.
My car has gone 230tkm but on the engine there is a mark saying
198tkm for that belt. If I can trust that and can be sure the light will
come warning me to change it I shouldn't be worried,should I?
Cheers
Lubo
HDJ80 96mod
 
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Lubo - the warning light is triggered purely by elapsed distance, thus pushing the plunger inwards turns the light out and it will not be turned back on for 100 000 km / 62 000 miles. There is no interface between the belt and the light.
If uncertain as to when the belt has been last changed or if the light has been extinguished and the belt not changed, I bet this happens with an unscroupolous seller, then change belt / tensioner and reset light, make a record of the odometer reading in the service / handbook and affix sticker to cam cover.
Regards Gareth Jones. '97 1-HDFT.
 
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Hallo guys,
The timing belt counter is an old fashined counter with cog wheels,
like they used to fit in tape recodrers.
It acts exactly like an odometer. The only difference is that it does
not display the score but engages an electrical contact when the
preset number of revs is reached. When the contact is closed the lamp
comes on. Press the plastic spike under the rubber grommet and the
counter resets to 0. There's nothing else to it.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On 4/6/06, Gareth Jones <[Email address removed]> wrote:
shing the plunger inwards turns the light out and it will not be turned back on for 100 000 km / 62 000 miles. There is no interface between the belt and the light.
s been extinguished and the belt not changed, I bet this happens with an unscroupolous seller, then change belt / tensioner and reset light, make a record of the odometer reading in the service / handbook and affix sticker to cam cover.
 
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Thanks Gareth
I spoke today withToyota service in Germany and they told me the belt
was changed at 192tkm by them on july2004-so it looks like everything
is OK :))))))))
Otherwise the car goes like 'Rolex'-the single thing that bothers me
is that slight vibration and shrouding when I switch of the
engine,but I guess I have to live with
that before I drop down to Germany for some major service and maybe
then something can be fixed....
Cheers
Lubo
96/97 1-HDFT
PS: it was 'unscroupolous seller' -that's why I was worried......
On Apr 6, 2006, at 2:20 PM, Gareth Jones wrote:
 
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On 6/4/06 16:47, "Lubomir Kolev" <[Email address removed]> wrote:
They all seem to shake and shudder a bit at switch off. I find it strangely
reassuring. It is a straight six diesel lump after all. At least mine is.
Jeremy
HDJ81 + lots of bits
 
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Mine shudders on switch off too. Worried me for the first week or so,
but now I don't notice it.
Think St. Bernard shaking itself after emerging from a swim ...

| On 6/4/06 16:47, "Lubomir Kolev" <[Email address removed]> wrote:
|
| > -the single thing that bothers me
| > is that slight vibration and shrouding when I switch of the engine,
| >
| They all seem to shake and shudder a bit at switch off. I
| find it strangely reassuring. It is a straight six diesel
| lump after all. At least mine is.
|
| Jeremy
Christopher Bell
____________________________________________________________
Electronic mail messages entering and leaving Arup business
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with regard to the busted LR diff, it was a standard 2 pin 3.54:1
landrover diff. it was an 1989 discovery with 35" mud terrains and about
180bhp under the bonnet. it broke due to old age and wear and a lack of
maintainance by any of the previous owners. the broken diff was the easy
bit. the casing also burst open so that had to be welded up before
another diff was fitted and refilled with oil.
and a great day was had by everyone in the end!
John Byrne wrote:
 
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Hey There
So do you always carry a welder on a day out. Great piece of mind especially
for the paranoid people who are afraid there vehicle will break. Now thats
not me at all.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT.
SNIP
with regard to the busted LR diff, it was a standard 2 pin 3.54:1
landrover diff. it was an 1989 discovery with 35" mud terrains and about
180bhp under the bonnet. it broke due to old age and wear and a lack of
maintainance by any of the previous owners. the broken diff was the easy
bit. the casing also burst open so that had to be welded up before
another diff was fitted and refilled with oil.
and a great day was had by everyone in the end!
 
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no, well we dont normally carry a welder but we were in a working sand
pit so they have workshop facilities there but one of the guys has a
portable mig torch that you hook up to the batteries and that would have
done either. an L200 and a Pajero that were there had no problems,
neither did any of the other landrovers and most run 35" simex's. just
unlucky that it broke when it did. or lucky maybe as someone had a spare
diff cos the disco owner didnt. it was his first time to do anything
mechanical at all and he just got stuck in and followed directions. no
big ordeal.
John Byrne wrote:
 
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