Auto changing poblem

[fridayman]

This morning it happened twice, that when I went to pull away at a junction the revs climbed but the truck did not go..? Then after a couple of seconds there was a soft thud/jerk and normal service was resumed. I haven't had a chance to check the atf level yet, but anyone got any thoughts on what is happening?

 

[wobbly]

Hi

There have been a few threads recently - it seems to be the atf is the common problem, so checking the quality of whats in there is a start - in particular looking for any evidence that there is coolant in the atf - then a flush through/top up.

Pete

 

[fridayman]

Thanks Pete.

I popped out at lunch to check the atf level and it looked a little low, which could explain the gear change problem. Then I wondered where it had gone???

Found it! It's in the rad now...

So I assume that the atf cooler has gone which means a new rad - I have one sitting here next to me, just haven't gotten round to fitting it yet So new rad will go on (with new coolant, new water pump, 76 degree stat, and new belts) hopefully this weekend if it doesn't rain all weekend.

I guess that I will need to flush the atf too?

How do I know if I have damaged the head?

 

[AndyCook]

hopefully you have caught it in time,
yes the transmission will need avery good flush and the cooling system too

 

[fridayman]

Searching for how to flush coolant threads...

 

[BobMurphy]

How do I know if I have damaged the head?

Its most unlikely that you have damaged the head or the water pump as you haven't run short of liquid coolant (whatever it is ).

Its far more likely that the auto box will suffer if its got water in the ATF. Make sure you clean the box out thoroughly, there are stories on here of people using 20 to 30 litres of ATF to flush the box out.

Good luck with it.

Bob.

 

[Andrew Prince]

Et, I wonder whether you're better off getting a transmission specialist to flush the box with ATF using their special pumps? I wouldn't want to faff around adding a couple of litres of ATF and draining, adding more etc and hoping that I got all the water out. A few quid now getting the ATF properly flushed might save a rebuild.

Hope you get it sorted without major damage

 

[fridayman]

Late this afternoon I walked past the truck and noticed a wet patch under the front left side of the engine bay. On closer inspection the whole front left wheel bay, chassis and bumper are wet - some of it looks like atf (clear drops) and some looks like atf mixed with coolant (red milky drops). I will take a better look tomorrow to try and see where it has all come from.

Bob, the coolant in the truck is pink in colour, but I am not 100% sure what it is as I have not changed it yet. I have new Toyo coolant in the garage, but was waiting to change the rad & pump - I guess this is one way to find the time

I have tried to change the ATF myself before and used about 15 litres, but it wasn't perfectly clear (the gear changes have been perfect though, so I was happy). This time I think I agree with you Andrew, and will get it properly flushed by a specialist. I think flushing all the coolant without a hose.. is enough of a challenge right now. Might get some RO water from the local pet shop to do the flushing, then see how much I can get out via the rad drain, engine drain and rear heater hoses - maybe do this twice - and finally top up with the Toyo coolant.

Oh, and this is what the engine bay looks like at the moment (damn hosepipe ban!):

 

[wobbly]

Have you checked the colour of the atf fluid? Fingers crossed youve got there early enough.

The pink milkshake affects the internal clutch plates, so get it all sucked out is a good idea.

Common problem with these now. Must get myself a new rad, but I want a toyota one, so need to save up!

What rad did you get?

 

[fridayman]

Have you checked the colour of the atf fluid? Fingers crossed youve got there early enough.

What rad did you get?

There is a very slight clouding in the ATF, but not milkshake like the coolant.

I think the replacement rad is Nippon denso - apparently it is what some Toyo dealers fit.

 

[fridayman]

Took another quick look and when I touched the atf (I assume?) hose connector (where it connects to the bottom left of the rad) it just fell off! and contaminated coolant started flowing out and all over the show. It didn't look like much atf came out, but it might be because that is already sprayed along the left underside of the truck...

Is that hose connector that came off, the input or return side of the atf for the gearbox?

 

[wobbly]

Cloudy coolant has to be better than cloudy atf......spose its a bit like having a broken arm rather than a broken leg! Neithers good, but its the lesser of the two weevils.

Once both have had a good flush out and the new rads fitted it'll be good for another 150,000 miles.

Pete

 

[wobbly]

Denso is owned by Toyota and is almost certainly the oem for Toyota parts, which are rebranded as genuine parts.....

Where did you get the rad from?

Pete

 

[fridayman]

Denso is owned by Toyota and is almost certainly the oem for Toyota parts, which are rebranded as genuine parts.....

Where did you get the rad from?

Pete

I bought it off a guy who had originally bought it from Toyota to replace his own rad, but then sold the truck before he got round to it.

 

[wobbly]

Result then, currently about £450.00 plus vat from Mr.T.

Pete

 

[fridayman]

Result then, currently about £450.00 plus vat from Mr.T.

Pete

I don't remember exactly how much I paid, but it was closer to £150 including a replacement oil pipe and delivery

 

[wobbly]

Bargain.

 

[fridayman]

Re: Auto changing problem

This weekend I fitted a new rad, water pump, timing & alternator belts, and topped up the silicone fluid in the viscous fan coupling. I also tried to flush the cooling system, which is a pain if you can't use a hose... I was using DI water (cleaner than RO): top up, run up to temp, drain for 20 minutes, repeat. I would say 98% of the water coming out was clean, but it seems impossible to get the very last bit of milkshake out. After flushing about 5 times, I topped up with the Toyota pink coolant. There is still a very small amount of milkshake floating on top that I can't seem to get out. I might get another 5litre of coolant, and drain & top up one more time.

Then on to the gearbox. Initially I thought I have been very lucky and only a small amount of coolant got into the box. When I drew out 5 litres of atf with an oil extractor it looked like there was only about a litre of milkshake floating on top of the atf which was clear. I added back 5litre of fresh atf and took it round the block. Let it cool down a little bit and then drew some more atf... all 5litre was pink milkshake I have the truck booked in for a box flush on Wednesday, but knowing that I will be towing a camper trailer around in all sorts of conditions (including soft sand), I'm now wondering whether I shouldn't just get the box reconditioned?

What do you guys think: Flush only? Or don't waste money on the flush (£200) and just get the box reconditioned (£?)?

 

[Rob]

Reconditioning the box is always a last resort IMO due to the cost. If it were mine I would get it flushed by the professionals. This is assuming a rebuild is £1500, so £200 is worth the gamble IMO.

 

[wobbly]

If the truck has been sat then the atf / coolant may have seperated somewhat, meaning you drew off mainly atf - its not likely that you would get clear atf with coolant floating on the top if the box had been in use - running it round the block has simply mixed it all back up again.

I would get it flushed properly, there is no way you can get all the contaminated atf out by flushing as you are - I think the torque converter holds several litres. The issue is the internal clutches becoming damaged by the mix, but if its 1:5 mix then fingers crossed its ok.

I have seen a few similar threads and all seemed to be cured by a proper flush.

Good luck.

Pete.