Hi Mike,
How did he test the batteries?
They should really be tested with a high current drain, andwhile the high current is being drained out of teh battery, the voltage should be noted.
Each battery need disconnecting completly from teh LC, and each tested seperatly.
I guess the next step is when you are home, completley disconnect either left side battery, or right side battery, and insulate the 2 terminals on the ends of the cables, one runs to chassis some where, the black one, and the other that go to the starter motor or some where, maybe a starting relay, it doesn't matter, but just insulate it so no chance of it touching any thing else AT ALL.
Then working on the battery that is still in connection, with teh LC electrics.
Make sure teh key is off, and for good measure, pulled out of the ignition.
Then loosen the posative (red) lead on the battery.
Put the test meter to the 10 amp scale, put the black lead in teh middle hole, and teh red lead in teh left hole.
Connect the black lead to the red terminal that you have took off the batterries posative teminal, and make sure it doesn't touch any thing.
This is where the 3 hands come in handy.
Then briefly touch the red lead of the test meter on the posative terminal of the battery, if teh needle pointer swings hard over to the right, then stop as fast as you can, as it is taking too much current (amps) through teh meter to the LC electrics.
If the needle hardly moves, which is most probable, then keep the two meter leads connected.
You can hold the leads on teh battery, you wont get a shock
You can also hold teh black lead on the battery lead going to the LC electrics, you wont ge ta shock.
Then look at the 10 amp scale, and see if you can read how much current (amps0 is indicated.
Hope fully it will not move the needle pointer at all.
if teh needle pointer is pointing to half an amp or less, then you can repaet the test, using a lower scale on teh meter.
Remember to swap the red lead on the meter from the left hole on teh meter to the right hole on the meter.
Then turn the pointer to the 500mA scale, which is just 1 step clock wise from the 10 Amp scale.
By using the 500mA scale, which is half amp, you should be able so see the slight drain of the imobiliser and the radio permanent feed.
I don't know the amps of the inside lights, but opening a door, may send the needle hard to the right, if your on teh 500mA scale.
For information, without getting too technical,,,,
a 12 watt bulb uses 1 amp at 12 volts supply
so a 6 watt bulb uses half amp at 12 volt supply
so a stop lamp, which is 21 wats, is ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,21 divided by 12 = 1,75 amps.
so if your door lights are 5 watts, or some thing like that, they will draw close to the meters maximum when on the 500mA (half amp0 scale.
Gra.