bearings sealed or not

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Hi Guys
I have been getting a bit of work done with the cruiser with the help of my
borrowed Toyota mechanic/parts fitter come (Yaris mechanic), just for you
Jon.
He put on all new brake discs but siad the rear caliper was seized so got
him one. For two weeks I have had a grinding sound in the rear where the
seized caliper was and that metal off metal sound when going over a bump.
This was his third time to try to fit the issue and seems to have worked by
replacing the caliper.
But and there is always a but, I still have a slight grinding sound at that
same wheel. Very slight but it is there none the same and it is most
noticable when turning.
Let me explain, the problem whell/caliper is /was at the rear drivers side
and when I turn right or go around a roundabout the sound gets worse. It
seems it is somewhat connected to the angle of the cruiser when turning. Ok
I could be going mad but I dont think so at least not yet.
I had an idea that it could be the wheel bearings but my guy said it is a
sealed unit at the rear of the cruiser and that no maintainence is required
or no water or mud can get in there. Yet on Milners chart it lists rear
wheel bearings so who or what is correct please.
He also repaired the hand brake to some degree but after new shoes and
adjusting several times its not any good so he puts it down to a stretched
cable.
Can the cable stretch even though its made of strands of metal or will I
just get a new cable.
Thanks as always
John 92|HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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On 25/5/06 6:57 pm, "John Byrne" wrote:
Is the noise there at all speeds or does it come on a a certain point, say
50 mph? That would point to a bearing
Does it only come on when you brake, or there constantly? That would mean
brakes.
Yes, the bearings can be replaced and I believe the 'preload' is adjustable.
Others here with far greater technical knowledge than me can tell you.
On the subject of 'sealed' bearings. A pal of mine used to own a 4.5 petrol
80 that had the most appalling noise intermittently. It would screech like a
brake pad had dropped out, then stop. Wouldn't do it for days, then do it
again.
We stripped the front wheel bearings down and found that all the tab washers
had been off at some point and the bearings had been 'adjusted'. They were
wrecked and it was amazing the thing hadn't collapsed. Previous owner showed
us a bill from his local Toyota dealer for the work....
Hope this helps,
Neill Watson
 
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Hey Neill
Thanks for that, the noise is there all the time from when I move to when i
stop. it gets worse when turning or going around a roundabout, or maybe its
cause I can hear it better with the noise being deflected back to me .
I had a look at the hand brake cable that goes from one wheel to the other
and its reallty tight even when the hand brake is off. Gareth showed me the
two things at the wheels that can move and I checked them but the cable is
tight now so they dont move at all.
Ah to know all these things would be great instead of reliying on others
that your not sure know either.
cheers
john
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neill Watson" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: [ELCO] bearings sealed or not
 
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That doesn't sound right to me. If I remember rightly, the handbrake works
on a drum built into the rear disc assembly and doesn't work on the brake
pads. Could it be that the handbrake shoes are adjusted right up and are
binding?
Go for a short drive without braking hard and see if the back wheels are
more than slightly warm.
Can anyone else confirm 80 handbrakes are drum-within-disc?
Neill W
On 25/5/06 7:56 pm, "John Byrne" wrote:
 
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Hey Neill
Thanks, they have the shoes for the handbrake in the drum on the disc.
Some times it would be better to have a two wheel drive car where all you
ahd to do was spin the wheel to see if the brakes were rubbing or too tight.
Whereas with the cruiser you cant, cause all the wheels are locked together
and dont spin freely.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT.
 
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Hi Guys
I have just gone for a drive to see if the wheel that I can hear
grinding/rubbing from is in anyway different than the other three.
Well this huib/disc is condiderable hotter than the other three.
So now im guessing it maybe the shoes are adjusted too tight onto the hubs.
am I right.???
I dont know what else to think but its a real pain to think im still having
problems after three attemps to cure the problem by others.
If I want to de/adjust the handbrake from the cabin in order to loosen the
shoes, is it just a case of loosening the nuts at the handbrake that you can
see when you pull the cover back..
When over recently Gareth showed me the rear bits at each wheel and as far
as I can remember there is a little lever with a flat head on it at each
wheel and they are supposed to be in close to the wheel backing plate. But
mine are now about 1 inch away from this plate and wont go in closer.
I reakon that if I de/adjust the nuts at the handbrake in the cabin this
will free out the shoes , is this correct. ????
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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Hi John,
Just scanned the thread so might not pick up all the issues.
Firstly the handbrake cable will pretty well always be tensioned, even
if the handbrake is off so no problem there.
On the wheel bearings, they aren't sealed units, they are servicable
items like the front ones, only thing is that the dealers don't service
them - they only touch them if they have gone.
Try jacking that corner of the car up and holding the wheel at 12 and 6
o'clock and see if you can get the wheel to wobble - if you can it is
definitely a problem with the wheel bearing - any mechanic worth his
salt should notice this when changing the rear disks.
Another thing to consider is that you might have knocked the disk guard
causing it to rub against the disk - jack that corner up and remove the
wheel and then run your fingers between the disk and the guard on the
inside and make sure there is consistant space between the guard and
disk.
Hope that helps.
BTW - if you are on broadband sign up for skype and then if you have
problems we can chat them over.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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On 5/25/06, John Byrne <[Email address removed]> wrote:
s.
IMHO I think you are.
When I serviced the rear axle to replace seals, bearings, discs, drums
etc. the shoes were so thin that needed replacement. Everything went
right but the hand brake cable was adjusted to tight so I had a squeal
that disappeared after the cable was loosened up a bit.
Apparently the new shoes needed some time to bed and the cable was
just to tight.
Even now two years latter although on the loose side if I pull the
hand brake on dry bitumen I'm able to lock the rear wheels so I guess
the hand brake, brakes.
For what I've heard adjusting the hand brake properly on the 80 it is
not a trivial task specially for Yaris mechanics (or Portuguese ones
on a hurry) :)
Regards
Joaquim
94 1HD-T Portugal
 
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JB wrote...
I have been getting a bit of work done with the cruiser with the help of my
borrowed Toyota mechanic/parts fitter come (Yaris mechanic), just for you
Jon.
SNIP
JB, I am so impressed that you write your posting especially for me
to understand, I see Joaquim also has the Yaris mechanics down his way too.
I think your description of the man is too broad. He is not a
mechanic, he is a fitter. Fitters are not trained to adjuust or
maintain. They are trained to decide which component is not working
as designed and then how to remove it and fit a new one. Though in
his case they probably thought axle parts were too complicated and
didn't bother to explain the inner workings of it all to him. Please
try and find a plant hire or tractor mechanic to help you.
On the brake cable. My first Balkan winter with the 80 saw the
handbrake seize with frost even when I left it off overnight. I then
dreaded using the brake at traffic lights on the mountainsides around
Sarajevo, as once pulled on it would then not release for quite some
time. I thought it was just one of those quaint 'features' of the
marque. But I had no choice other than to buy a new cable (a
'blueprint from' Milners). The difference was obvious.
Water eventually gets in past the rubber shroud at the axle end of
the outer sheath, and then your cable is done for. But the adjuster
at the cabin lever end is there only to adjust out the stretch in the
cable and no more. The only adjustment of the brakes is within the
shoe assembly as Gareth has expertly described. Again, its one of
those things that needs regular checking like the transmission levels
or UJ greasing. You can't expect to maintain the 80 just by having a
regular service as in the handbook (like a Yaris), especially as it
gets older. My only service item is the oil at 5000km. everything
else gets checked regularly on a rota. Not easy for you when you have
an injured back but worth it to maintain a classic of the 4WD world.
Keep looking around it.
Cheers
Jon
Herts
'92 HZJ80 ex UN Bosnia surplus
 
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