Can anybody give an idiots guide to alternators?

[clivehorridge]

If you think you know little about lectrickery, then I can assure you you’ve forgotten more than I’ve ever known!

All I do know is that I get 14.2 V at idle (circa 600 RPM) even with everything winter-related on, heater fan, rear screen de-mist, seat heaters, radio, wipers et al...

Take it back and if they dont take it willingly, tell them you’ll lob it through their window.

As Frank suggested, don’t be shy

Best of luck

 

[Knucklehead]

Cheers Clive, that just confirmed what I thought.
Tick over loaded up and the alternator should be keeping the batteries charged not sleeping while they turn into discharged bunch of crap. Ass kicking time!

 

[MarkW]

Roughtrax will sort it out with no hassle. I had a problem with brake hoses in the summer and they sent replacements next day no questions or need to return the faulty ones. They might want the alternator back though as it’s worth a bit more than some hoses.

 

[Knucklehead]

Yep, to be fair to roughtrax, they got straight onto the manufacture with my images who have agreed to send a replacement today and then I can post the dud one back.

Roughtrax have also agreed I can get a refund if any issues with the new one. Great customer service from them even after me being a grumpy arse when I phoned this morning.

I’ll be giving the contact StarCruiser suggested a bell if any more grief.

Thanks all anyhow.

 

[frank rabbets]

If they have well trained staff they should easily be capable of being shouted at so don't feel guilty. Glad they did not mess about and stood up to it.

 

[Knucklehead]

I’ll feel less guilty when I’m back in there pulling the dud back out! Fortunately no fancy air con or the likes so fairly straight forward.

One thing I did wonder. When I removed the old Toyo alternator I noticed the plug had what looked like white grease around the female pins? I used the contact cleaner to remove it to make sure good connection.

Should there be grease applied to the plug? Guessing good for corrosion but what grease doesn’t interfere with conductivity?

 

[StarCruiser]

We used to use heat sink compound on some busbar joints in big control panels. That's white. Could be that.

 

[Knucklehead]

Really not sure. It kinda looked the way lithium white grease goes when old. Had a bugger of a job getting the connection out. Looking at the FSM there is no mention of adding anything so think I’ll connect them dry.

 

[Towpack]

Dielectric grease. I use it all the time. Servisol is clear though. Filled all the connectors on the bikes with it before reconnecting them. Some of the connectors on the dirt bike especially get covered in sh*te and haven't had one fail yet. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Servisol...238167&hash=item3f6e0fad41:g:Vb0AAOSwMtxXvfN-

 

[chapel gate]

I’ll feel less guilty when I’m back in there pulling the dud back out! Fortunately no fancy air con or the likes so fairly straight forward.

One thing I did wonder. When I removed the old Toyo alternator I noticed the plug had what looked like white grease around the female pins? I used the contact cleaner to remove it to make sure good connection.

Should there be grease applied to the plug? Guessing good for corrosion but what grease doesn’t interfere with conductivity?

Shouldnt do. Ive sprayed white grease into the large main loom connectors behind the footwell kick panels before when they were hard to remove due to corrosion, makes them easier to disconnect and helps protect them from moisture ingress. Never had a problem.

 

[IRLGW]

Plenty of idiots on here my friend, but as one of the bigger one I feel obliged to give you my solution. Sell it.Just sell it and the problem will go away.

So I had the identical problem and got the alternator recon etc etc. Dash lights on until 1500rpm, idled up and all that but no use. My problem was a bad battery earth but more easily noticeable because the service battery was being drained almost overnight. in the process of tightening the earth, I also cleaned every reachable connection so unless I had a problem there also I will never know.

Just take a flying lead if required and take it to all the key points - ignition, alternator feedback etc and see if you can eliminate the problem that way. Most likely between the regulator and the dash if you have no bad earth. If step 3 fails revert to step 1.

 

[Knucklehead]

I’d rather push it than sell her!!!

Good ideas regarding earthing. Still pointing my finger at the new alternator unless I’ve been really unlucky and these issues showed up the same time a new one was fitted as no probs with old one apart from bearings. Might even put old one back in to see if goes back to normal.

Thanks for all advice guys.

Dave.

 

[frank rabbets]

Some sort of preservative is essential on the plug and contacts. WD40 sprayed in would be the easiest and will not stop the conduction.

Good idea of IRLGW to sell the old ones on ebay lol.

 

[Towpack]

For a spray on dielectric corrosion prevention treatment I've started using this stuff..http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm. WD40 doesn't even come close IMO.

 

[Shayne]

For a spray on dielectric corrosion prevention treatment I've started using this stuff..http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm. WD40 doesn't even come close IMO.

I have often wondered if Scotchgard or Lithofin which are both invisible silicone sealers albeit intended for use on fabric/leather or stone respectively with long term lasting effects might prove better and cheaper ?

 

[frank rabbets]

Don't use the dielectric corrosion prevention treatment on your carpets Shayne. .

 

[StarCruiser]

Don't use the dielectric corrosion prevention treatment on your carpets Shayne. .

Is that Helen I can hear Shayne…?

 

[Shayne]

Gotta wonder though about the Lithofin though the whole ground floor of my house is travertine stone tiled and after walking on it for 7 years it's still waterproof , I know it can't soak into steel but it has to beat wd40 as a sealant and 20 quids worth's would cover every inch of your car twice .

 

[Knucklehead]

Umm, replacement arrived today, very quick must be said.
The first alternator was branded 'UC Premium'. Roughtrax had no more in stock so their supplier sent a new one direct. It is branded 'Wood Auto' and likely similar quality.

 

[StarCruiser]

Gotta wonder though about the Lithofin though the whole ground floor of my house is travertine stone tiled and after walking on it for 7 years it's still waterproof , I know it can't soak into steel but it has to beat wd40 as a sealant and 20 quids worth's would cover every inch of your car twice .

You really don't want to be putting that sort sealant around electrical contacts Shayne. You've no idea how it would react to the metal or its coating nor do you want to be introducing any barriers to conductivity. The stuff that was on Dave's contacts seems to have done a reasonable job and if it was tight to remove, it was most probably making a good contact being tight.
If it ain't broke…?