CDL Locked and cant get it unlocked!

[Craigus76]

Hi guys

Am new to the Club! Have done a brief intro but to others - HI and glad to be on here - apart from very clued up boys the sense of humour is good too!

below my problem.......

1997 80 series - manual diesel with 3 diff locks, centre diff lock doesn't have a switch on dash - is activated by moving into L range. Haven't ever taken it off-road so always in H range.(when at traffic lights i have occasionally shifted it into L range just to give it some use and its always engaged and disengaged fine - i havent driven in L range though. Fitted a new radio and with car off and I moved it into L range to remove the console for running wires. Switched electrics on with it in L range and started it to test radio and then switched off. Then whilst off moved it back into H range after refitting console and started car - centre diff and Abs lights on and centre diff definitely locked. Took for 5 mile drive and wouldn't budge. Made some clacking noises round corners - not good! Can shift between H and L and makes no difference - lights stay on and diff locked. When shifting between the ranges I can hear the electric relay "click" in the dash but doesn't change. If I engage the back and/or front diffs the lights flash and doesn't appear to engage them. Tried removing radio although it was a straight harness to harness installation so didn't fiddle with any electrics apart from pushing cables down when pushing in radio. . Also unplugged electric fitting on transfer box and didn't do anything. When i went for the drive i went on gravel a bit and tried going backwards and forwards and also went up on kerb and off but nothing. My tires are all same size/brand fyi. I am basic mechanically minded but i am so worried i have already damaged something as the clanking sound it made and the tires gripping / slipping as i went around the round about was terrible! I would rather pay for someone to come out than cause damage or make worse. Having said that i am keen to try myself but am just concerned re buggering it up anymore!

Please help or put me onto a mobile 80`s mechanic in South London.

THX ALL
Craig

 

[stumog]

Hi

Are you in a position to Jack all four wheels up? This way you can try alsorts of things suggested and not cause anymore problems?

 

[Craigus76]

Hi

Are you in a position to Jack all four wheels up? This way you can try alsorts of things suggested and not cause anymore problems?

IDEA! I only have a 2ton jack and 2 stands BUT there is a tyre shop on the corner of my road so i can ask them for some equipment. Didnt even think of that! cool will have to do Saturday morning - will let you know. THX

 

[stumog]

We used to run up coaches 6 foot in the air on axle stands. Pretty scary the first time.

 

[stumog]

Boer maak a plan.....

Let the English teach you.
..

 

[Chas]

IDEA! I only have a 2ton jack and 2 stands BUT there is a tyre shop on the corner of my road so i can ask them for some equipment. Didnt even think of that! cool will have to do Saturday morning - will let you know. THX

Hi Craig Whereabouts in South London are you? I am in Morden and have some axle stands you can use.

 

[Craigus76]

Hi Craig Whereabouts in South London are you? I am in Morden and have some axle stands you can use.

Hey Chas

Thats very kind of you and i may take you up on the offer - in lieu of some beers of course! Stands aside i would love to see your cruiser as it sounds pretty awesome

i tried the fuse removal and no good so want to try the back and forwards thing - except the garage was too busy on Saturday. i am going to get someone to hold my parking space tomorrow or Thursday morning and try driving up and down my road in a straight line and will let you know once that`s done.

thanks for your helpfulness Chas

cheers

craig

 

[stumog]

Can you try putting a q2v supply straight to the motor to try and see if it works?.

I would definitely avoid driving it anymore.

You can also take the cover off the motor as I expect the magnets have come unstuck.

 

[Craigus76]

Can you try putting a q2v supply straight to the motor to try and see if it works?.

I would definitely avoid driving it anymore.

You can also take the cover off the motor as I expect the magnets have come unstuck.

Hi Stumog

I am not sure of where the motor is but will have a look later and see what i can do. thx
Otherwise will take Chas up on his offer and grab some axle stands!

thx
Craig

 

[StarCruiser]

Hadn't thought of motor losing its magnets. I've seen this before and it's a dastardly trick for a motor to play. Easy to spot if you take the motor apart but I don't have a clue as to where it is on the 80. Stu could be on to something there.

 

[stumog]

It's why the axle looker motors fail a lot.

I don't know 100% where it is.

 

[Towpack]

CDL actuator....

Some info on fixing a sticking cross axle actuator. The CDL actuator will be similar....http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_diff_lock_actuator.htm

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

With the ignition on, engine not running, when you shift between H & L you should hear the actuator motor running for a second or two not just a click. The noise will come from under the truck roughly where the shift lever is. If you can't hear the motor running then either the motor is fault or it is not getting power. Sometimes the '4wd ECU' (I think that's what Toyota call it) so the actuator doesn't get powered and less often the actuator itself fails which can be motor magnets or the actuator gearbox can get very stiff and need a clean and re-grease.

 

[Craigus76]

With the ignition on, engine not running, when you shift between H & L you should hear the actuator motor running for a second or two not just a click. The noise will come from under the truck roughly where the shift lever is. If you can't hear the motor running then either the motor is fault or it is not getting power. Sometimes the '4wd ECU' (I think that's what Toyota call it) so the actuator doesn't get powered and less often the actuator itself fails which can be motor magnets or the actuator gearbox can get very stiff and need a clean and re-grease.

Hi Chaps

Sorry missed these other messages. Right I have just had her up on 4 jack stands and some worrying results I think! So .....

H range Fwd

Drivers side wheels turning
Passenger side not moving but front jerking a bit

H range Reverse

Drivers side wheels turning
Passenger front wheel turning ok but rear not moving

L range Fwd

Drivers side wheels turning
Passenger side not moving

L range reverse

Drivers side wheels turning
Passenger front wheel turning ok but rear not moving

With other diffs locked drivers side ok but passenger side not moving. And the other diff lights stay flashing when engaged.

So I don't know if this means it is something mechanical damaged or is it electrical and something is only half engaged/ stuck?

I had a look under the car and will post a pic. Not too sharp on electricals though I must be honest. So not sure how to run a cable to the motor from battery

Thanks chaps any more help greatly appreciated

Thx
Craig

 

[Craigus76]

 

[Craigus76]

Think this the motor wiring but what to do with it ?

 

[Craigus76]

CDL actuator....
View attachment 105208

Some info on fixing a sticking cross axle actuator. The CDL actuator will be similar....http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_diff_lock_actuator.htm

Thx Towpack will have a gander at this info and let u know how I get on. Cheers

 

[Towpack]

If the cross axle diff lock lights stay flashing then the locks aren't engaged. The centre DL must fully lock before the cross axle locks will engage. Going on the year of your 80 it could also have a Viscous Coupling in the centre diff which acts like a limited slip diff and is, in effect, a sort of halfway house between a fully open diff and a mechanically locked diff. I'm not really sure how this would affect the tests you did. If you jack up one end, front or rear, with all the diffs unlocked, you should be able to turn one wheel but there will be some resistance from the VC. If it won't budge then the centre diff is either locked mechanically or the VC has seized. The mechanical lock on the centre diff and it's associated warning light works completely independently of the VC.

 

[clivehorridge]

From what I understand from your descriptions, the lack of rotation on the passenger side in High (fwd or rev) could simply be binding brake pads.

However, in Low, (when the CD should be locked) the front and the rear wheels should be doing the same things, but again, if the axle diffs aren't engaged, then binding brakes could stop a wheel and transfer rotation to the other side.

I'm a bit lost for an explanation and advice on how to proceed, I was hoping Chris might advise on a procedure. maybe he'll be along shortly, now he's feeling more relaxed having cracked his own problems with his diff

 

[dellboykev]

Jack one wheel up you should be able to turn it if it has a viscous coupling it will have some resistance but will stil turn then engage Centre diff lock or put it in low range if you don't have a button then try to spin the wheel you should hear a clunk then you shouldn't be able to spin the wheel then disengage the diff lock/put it in high range and try to spin the wheel again you should get another clunk and the wheel will spin it is also a good way to release a wound up diff if there is no loose ground and reversing isn't working