Changing an Alternator Belt

[AGM]

So this might be a stupid question, but I can't for the life of me find information on changing an alternator belt in the FSM? Any ideas where I should be looking?

I'm sure its been asked before, but has anyone written an idiots guide for this anywhere on the forum?

Cheers
AGM

 

[Towpack]

I don't think they've described an actual procedure in the FSM for adjusting/changing the belts as it's quite easy to figure out.
I remove the aircon belt first as it improves access.
Loosen the bottom alternator mounting/pivot bolt , then loosen the locking bolt (socket head IIRC) on the threaded adjuster on the top of the alternator and wind the adjuster in or out to get the correct tension, retightening everything when done.

 

[Trevor]

Also get a long bar in through the wheel arch to tap the alternator as close as you can to the engine block if it's stiff. That will give you the wiggle room to get the belts off the pulleys.

 

[Chris]

The long (socket head) adjusting bolt has this nasty tendency to bind in the clamp block and you wind away merrily thinking you're doing a fantastic job then there's that 'snap' of doom and you realise you've just been twisting barley-sugar. You really do need to be able to see the long bolt turning in the clamp block. If it's stiff, get a little spray on it either side of the clamp and gently work it back and forth to get the spray into the block a bit at a time until it's free. You can undo the block and get it off the alternator assembly but you also need to undo the sliding quadrant bracket too. Basically, just go easy on the adjuster or you'll be quite unhappy.

 

[frank rabbets]

Also check that the belt is still tight after a run. The initial bedding in can loosen the belt really quickly especially if you have a ridge wear on the pulley.

 

[Chris]

Agreed Frank. Even genuine matched belts seem to slacken fairly quickly.

 

[frank rabbets]

If you have a belt stockist close to you they may have the industrial quality belts you need in stock for about £4 each. Most keep metric sizes only now. They are very accurately made so you don't need to match them. The pulleys do not wear evenly so I run the belts in and then adjust again. The rear belt will be slightly tighter for a bit as the front crank pulley wears more than the rear.

If unhappy with non OEM go for Toyota as they are not that expensive for the high mileage they do.

 

[madmanmart]

I've ordered a genuine set a couple of weeks ago. £12 a pair.

 

[Chris]

Sorry Frank, you're running non genuine belts?

You know you going to burn in hell for that don't you. That's if you don't break down first of course ...

 

[frank rabbets]

Of course not Chris. I bought spare belts for my lawn mower and on putting them in stock realized they were identical to the Toyo ones I had. I thought I might be tempted one day.

 

[AGM]

Thanks for the advice once again!

Much appreciated.

AGM

 

[Dave2000]

I would like to add, make sure the lower bolt that the alternator pivots on is done up tight. If not then you will find the holes in the alternator and the support bracket wear oval. This will result in the alternator front tipping towards the engine, this makes it impossible to get the twin belts to tension evenly.

regards

Dave