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Chassis question

New Cruiser3.0

Active Member
Joined
May 26, 2023
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62
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uk
Hi guys

I just bought a 2006 landcruiser and wanted to do some work at the chassis, at the back its mainly the worst were the spare wheel is. It was done with oil every year used engine oil I think. I've got a kit from lanogurad.

Should I repaint it and then go with lanogurad or just use the lanogurad?

I've also some welding to do around the back wheel wells one of the back mud flaps is hanging off.
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Put the lanoguard on as the very last step to protect it once you've sorted it out so it's how you want it.

I'd take those plastic flaps off so you can see what's going on - half the trucks here leave them off!

There's lots of threads here about this topic so have a read then we can answer any questions.

Doesn't look too bad tbh, you'll get a better idea once you've cleaned it up a bit and had a bit of time.on it with a wire brush then you can see what you're dealing with!

Get the spare wheel out of the way and show us some pics of the worst bit where it needs welding...
 
Agree with Karl, not too bad at all with what's shown, and yes, definitely clean/wire brush all areas of rust to get an overall idea at what you're dealing with, especially in the area needing welding.
Hopefully it's not gone further than you think/see.
 
The pic of the rear wheel/chassis, the wheelarch looks to me like someone applied waxoyl or similar at one time and its doing what it always does flaking off, id remove any loose stuff because it makes excellent water and salt traps.

Chassis from what can be seen looks ok to me too, one of the better examples out there, engine oil wouldn't be my first choice (especially used oil) but it will have seeped in and helped a lot.

I do things slightly different to the others, i've done the insides of the chassis and cavities wiith Bilt Hamber cavity waxes, their large arseoles :D and brilliant probes make that a doddle comparitively.
For the chassis and rear live axle i've hand painted with marine grease and give the whole underside and any nooks a crannies that look likely annual coatings of ACF50 via a pressure garden sprayer on a hot day.
The downside to this method is everything is filthy to work on underneath, but, bolts tend to come undone instead of snapping off and it keeps things like height sensors etc from rotting out.
The other downside depends on wifey or your significant other, if they require a pristine drive/parking area then for goodness sake do all this work elsewhere and let it dry off for several days before daring to bring it home or you'll be in the dog house
Actually your parking area looks ideal for the job, i keep and old large rug and sheets of cardboard for these jobs, which soaks up the worse of the inevitable mess, but then i'm a mucky worker anyway.
;)
 
Got the wheel out and had a MOT wash.

This had just passed the MOT

Some rust all right under the spare wheel and around the wheel wells at the back one side is gone.
 

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I did get some jobs done today clean the inside of the chassis with a hose best I could do along with wash underneath.


The engine cover was missing so got it sorted with some improvised washers.
Side step bracket was rotten replaced with something nearly right for time being from breakers yard land cruiser graveyard wire brushed and painted.
Was at mechanics they are going to clean round the back end and apply the rust coating on the lift and fix the wheel wells ect.
 

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The new side step bracket is a lot shorter then the original where it bolts onto the inner sill, not sure I'd be keen on that.

Looks a nice cruiser, lovely colour. With them underside bits your getting done it will be a very good example.
 
Thats the only bracket I could get my hands on today at the breaker yard when I was getting the engine cover. So it's only temporary I was putting my foot on that step and it was half hanging off with that old rusted out bracket so il get a new set or make a set at work from 5mm plate and galvanise them.


I must put up some pictures of the inside it's in good condition for the year.

I want to change the satnav for something fresher and something Android.
Any man any ideas on that?
 
Sidestep brackets are horrendous price iirc around £50 each, and they are not all the same,the reason I did away with mine.
 
Probably end up making a wee set of brackets and galvanise them.

Here is some pictures of the inside.
 

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I want to change the satnav for something fresher and something Android.

I think any double DIN unit should do the job, I've got a Sony XAV 3005DB in mine - basically DAB and android auto / carplay. Can probably get pure android units cheaper - at least its double DIN so you've got plenty of choice!
 
I think any double DIN unit should do the job, I've got a Sony XAV 3005DB in mine - basically DAB and android auto / carplay. Can probably get pure android units cheaper - at least its double DIN so you've got plenty of choice!
Could this unit do a reversing camera?

Double din is a plus for sure easy to fit.
The one in at the moment is just a radio really to out dated.
 
Yep I think that's the only option on an LC5 where the heater controls are on the touchscreen!
 
Some service stuff in.
Timing belt
Air, fuel and oil filters
Diff oil
Transmission oil
Engine oil
Brake fluid.


Any thing else I need to look out for?
 

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Charcoal filter maybe?

Assume your using atf for your power steering too

Most important thing of all is check the oil pickup when you do the engine oil change
 
Never thought of power steering will look into it.

What's oil pickup? And charcoal filters never heard of them. Sorry for the basic questions learning as I go here.
 
Charcoal filter is just for the heater / Aircon take the glove box lid out and it's just behind there only about a tenner I think.

Power steering uses atf dexron 2 or 3 i think.

Once you've let all the oil drain from the sump shine a torch in there and check you can see the mesh on the oil pickup and make sure it isn't blocked. Blocked oil pickups are the biggest cause of engine failure on these - plenty of threads about it!
 
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