chat, and sulphur query

G

Guest

Guest
Jon et al,
apparently (and I've had this on good authority) there needs to be wheel spin before the RR-FR diff locks.
Mine has never worked, so am thinking of looking in to it when the weather becomes a little more clement. I really hate the cold with a passion and would be useless in any of the scandinvian countries in winter! my option is the dry heat of the desert - I can handle this and all that goes with it, like sand storms, dust storms, blocked up mechanisms, seizures, these kinds of things, and l'beast likes the diesel over there, too.
Also a query to anyone who is in the know - recently [saturday] I filled up one of my sub tanks. At the time I didn't think there was anything amis. But on driving hard (350 plus miles) this weekend I smelled serious rotten eggs, got out my manuals, checked things associated with sulphur smells like info on injectors, like the potential for blocked injectors, or build up of certain chemicals or muck in the tank, and the like but couldn't find anything that could be done aside from use up that rogue fuel and get a fresh tank. I've still got quite a bit in that tank. Any thoughts or ideas as to why on occasions the sulphur smell was pretty intense?
Cheers y' al
Renate
>>> [Email address removed] 03/13/05 05:56pm >>>
Re: diff locks
Some people have had problems with lockers being slow or failing to
engage, but as a percentage I think it's very low considering the few
reports and how many LC's are out there. The normal cause suggested is
lack of use - a lot of owners don't even know they are fitted to their
motor never mind what to do with them so they sit unused for 12 years or
so. When there is a problem with the actuators they can usually be fixed
if you're prepared to take them apart and service them. Note it's the
actuators (electric motor with a spring!) that fails, I've yet to read
of a diff failure but it must happen sometimes. If you test drive one,
be aware that often they won't engage until there is a different speed
at each end of the axle. Zig zags on mud, gravel or sand is useful for
testing. Also, the centre diff lock has to be engaged before the axle
diff locks will work.
I've no personal experience of ARB's but I read about plenty of problems
with them. I'd much rather trust MR Toyota's engineering than ARB if I
have a choice.
On 93 onwards UK vehicles there is no manual control of the centre diff
lock as standard - it's unlocked in high and locked in low. =A320 or so
will buy you a switch from Toyota which let's you engage the centre diff
lock manually and the wiring for it is already behind the dash, just
remove a blanking plug and connect the switch. I think Toyota were
worried people would drive round with the diff locked without realising
and destroy their drive line.
Re: Transmission
Both our 80's have auto boxes and I wouldn't change to manual for all
the tea in china. Each to their own and all that but in a tight spot I
have easier control by holding on the brake without also having to work
the clutch and be sure where it will bite. My 94 has seen a lot of
difficult terrain and works well for me. Many times I have been in
situations where I'm sure the momentum lost while changing gear in a
manual would stop me getting through. I'm talking about slogging up
muddy inclines or across bog where I want to hit it at speed for maximum
momentum and let the box change down when the time is right (on private
land of course).
Best Regards,
Jon.
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Dyfed Bowen
Sent: 13 March 2005 10:05
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] Buying an 80
dont think i will have much work for one in dunes
not many dunes in lancashire! :)
however plenty of lanes and offroad sites to contend with.
what i find funny is that people will buy a landrover and spend 1.5k on
arb air compressors however an LC 80 has them fitted as std
maybe the arb is better but from the outset you have the advantage with
the LC! :)
dyf
 
G

Guest

Guest
Renate

Were you following a petrol car with a catalytic converter as these emit
very strong smell of sulphur.
The first thing with your locks is to check that the switch on the top front
of the transfer box driver=92s side is working. Do your ABS and CDL indicator
light up when you have locked it up? You then have to see if a signal is
reaching the front and rear actuators
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_centerdiff.htm
If it is then you will have to remove the actuators off the axles, they are
some times gunged up this is quite common.
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_diff_lock_actuator.htm
Anthony

_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of Renate Haupt
Sent: 14 March 2005 09:37
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] chat, and sulphur query

Jon et al,
apparently (and I've had this on good authority) there needs to be wheel
spin before the RR-FR diff locks.
Mine has never worked, so am thinking of looking in to it when the weather
becomes a little more clement. I really hate the cold with a passion and
would be useless in any of the scandinvian countries in winter! my option
is the dry heat of the desert - I can handle this and all that goes with it,
like sand storms, dust storms, blocked up mechanisms, seizures, these kinds
of things, and l'beast likes the diesel over there, too.
Also a query to anyone who is in the know - recently [saturday] I filled up
one of my sub tanks. At the time I didn't think there was anything amis.
But on driving hard (350 plus miles) this weekend I smelled serious rotten
eggs, got out my manuals, checked things associated with sulphur smells like
info on injectors, like the potential for blocked injectors, or build up of
certain chemicals or muck in the tank, and the like but couldn't find
anything that could be done aside from use up that rogue fuel and get a
fresh tank. I've still got quite a bit in that tank. Any thoughts or ideas
as to why on occasions the sulphur smell was pretty intense?
Cheers y' al
Renate
>>> [Email address removed] 03/13/05 05:56pm >>>
Re: diff locks
Some people have had problems with lockers being slow or failing to
engage, but as a percentage I think it's very low considering the few
reports and how many LC's are out there. The normal cause suggested is
lack of use - a lot of owners don't even know they are fitted to their
motor never mind what to do with them so they sit unused for 12 years or
so. When there is a problem with the actuators they can usually be fixed
if you=92re prepared to take them apart and service them. Note it's the
actuators (electric motor with a spring!) that fails, I've yet to read
of a diff failure but it must happen sometimes. If you test drive one,
be aware that often they won't engage until there is a different speed
at each end of the axle. Zig zags on mud, gravel or sand is useful for
testing. Also, the centre diff lock has to be engaged before the axle
diff locks will work.
I've no personal experience of ARB's but I read about plenty of problems
with them. I'd much rather trust MR Toyota's engineering than ARB if I
have a choice.
On 93 onwards UK vehicles there is no manual control of the centre diff
lock as standard - it's unlocked in high and locked in low. =A320 or so
will buy you a switch from Toyota which let's you engage the centre diff
lock manually and the wiring for it is already behind the dash, just
remove a blanking plug and connect the switch. I think Toyota were
worried people would drive round with the diff locked without realising
and destroy their drive line.
Re: Transmission
Both our 80's have auto boxes and I wouldn't change to manual for all
the tea in china. Each to their own and all that but in a tight spot I
have easier control by holding on the brake without also having to work
the clutch and be sure where it will bite. My 94 has seen a lot of
difficult terrain and works well for me. Many times I have been in
situations where I'm sure the momentum lost while changing gear in a
manual would stop me getting through. I'm talking about slogging up
muddy inclines or across bog where I want to hit it at speed for maximum
momentum and let the box change down when the time is right (on private
land of course).
Best Regards,
Jon.
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
<mailto:[Email address removed]%5d>
On Behalf Of Dyfed Bowen
Sent: 13 March 2005 10:05
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] Buying an 80
dont think i will have much work for one in dunes
not many dunes in lancashire! :)
however plenty of lanes and offroad sites to contend with.
what i find funny is that people will buy a landrover and spend 1.5k on
arb air compressors however an LC 80 has them fitted as std
maybe the arb is better but from the outset you have the advantage with
the LC! :)
dyf
 
G

Guest

Guest
Anthony, et al,
Nup,
No petrol car (old with converter) in front, or bike, or anything like this, the roads were pretty much empty of traffic.
This is the first time I've had a strong sulphur smell, it came and went, but when it came, it came big time, and I began thinking of whether there was something wrong with the beast engine conversion of fuel to energy. The engine was fine, sounded like it always does. I'm not that worried to be honest, but I will drop a line to customer services at Sainsbury's and ask whether their latest diesel delivery was more sulphury then normal - I guess the answer will be "most likely".
I have also kept in mind the fuel economy over the weekend and this might indicate to me that it is more of an injector issue than high-sulphur diesel - I'll keep you all informed.

Re diff: the red lit little icon comes on when I turn the engine on, there is no noise of engaging when wheels are spinning, and i switch it on, the diff switch works but no lit icon flashes red to indicate it locked.
When Central Lock is engaged, as it often is in the dunes when it is required the yellow lit icon comes on and stays on until I disengage - seemingly they work idependently of one another? this is my guess (as I'm no expert). Again I'm not that worried, but at some point I might wish to use it.
Julian was saying that when he engages his RR-FR dif the red lit icon flashes then I guess it stays on until its disengaged.
I'll check the link to Slee Off Road at some point today.
Thanks for your comments, Anthony
Regards
Renate

>>> [Email address removed] 03/14/05 09:59am >>>
st1:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) }Renate Were you following a petrol car with a catalytic converter as these emit very strong smell of sulphur.The first thing with your locks is to check that the switch on the top front of the transfer box driver's side is working. Do your ABS and CDL indicator light up when you have locked it up? You then have to see if a signal is reaching the front and rear actuators http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_centerdiff.htmIf it is then you will have to remove the actuators off the axles, they are some times gunged up this is quite common.http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_diff_lock_actuator.htmAnthony
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On Behalf Of Renate Haupt
Sent: 14 March 2005 09:37
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] chat, and sulphur query
Jon et al,
apparently (and I've had this on good authority) there needs to be wheel spin before the RR-FR diff locks.
Mine has never worked, so am thinking of looking in to it when the weather becomes a little more clement. I really hate the cold with a passion and would be useless in any of the scandinvian countries in winter! my option is the dry heat of the desert - I can handle this and all that goes with it, like sand storms, dust storms, blocked up mechanisms, seizures, these kinds of things, and l'beast likes the diesel over there, too.
Also a query to anyone who is in the know - recently [saturday] I filled up one of my sub tanks. At the time I didn't think there was anything amis. But on driving hard (350 plus miles) this weekend I smelled serious rotten eggs, got out my manuals, checked things associated with sulphur smells like info on injectors, like the potential for blocked injectors, or build up of certain chemicals or muck in the tank, and the like but couldn't find anything that could be done aside from use up that rogue fuel and get a fresh tank. I've still got quite a bit in that tank. Any thoughts or ideas as to why on occasions the sulphur smell was pretty intense?
Cheers y' al
Renate
>>> [Email address removed] 03/13/05 05:56pm >>>
Re: diff locks
Some people have had problems with lockers being slow or failing to
engage, but as a percentage I think it's very low considering the few
reports and how many LC's are out there. The normal cause suggested is
lack of use - a lot of owners don't even know they are fitted to their
motor never mind what to do with them so they sit unused for 12 years or
so. When there is a problem with the actuators they can usually be fixed
if you're prepared to take them apart and service them. Note it's the
actuators (electric motor with a spring!) that fails, I've yet to read
of a diff failure but it must happen sometimes. If you test drive one,
be aware that often they won't engage until there is a different speed
at each end of the axle. Zig zags on mud, gravel or sand is useful for
testing. Also, the centre diff lock has to be engaged before the axle
diff locks will work.
I've no personal experience of ARB's but I read about plenty of problems
with them. I'd much rather trust MR Toyota's engineering than ARB if I
have a choice.
On 93 onwards UK vehicles there is no manual control of the centre diff
lock as standard - it's unlocked in high and locked in low. =A320 or so
will buy you a switch from Toyota which let's you engage the centre diff
lock manually and the wiring for it is already behind the dash, just
remove a blanking plug and connect the switch. I think Toyota were
worried people would drive round with the diff locked without realising
and destroy their drive line.
Re: Transmission
Both our 80's have auto boxes and I wouldn't change to manual for all
the tea in china. Each to their own and all that but in a tight spot I
have easier control by holding on the brake without also having to work
the clutch and be sure where it will bite. My 94 has seen a lot of
difficult terrain and works well for me. Many times I have been in
situations where I'm sure the momentum lost while changing gear in a
manual would stop me getting through. I'm talking about slogging up
muddy inclines or across bog where I want to hit it at speed for maximum
momentum and let the box change down when the time is right (on private
land of course).
Best Regards,
Jon.
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Dyfed Bowen
Sent: 13 March 2005 10:05
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] Buying an 80
dont think i will have much work for one in dunes
not many dunes in lancashire! :)
however plenty of lanes and offroad sites to contend with.
what i find funny is that people will buy a landrover and spend 1.5k on
arb air compressors however an LC 80 has them fitted as std
maybe the arb is better but from the outset you have the advantage with
the LC! :)
dyf
 
G

Guest

Guest
I took a look at Renate's truck yesterday.
As far as I can tell there is an electrical fault somewhere.
The Centre diff lock appears to work as expected.
When you engage low the centre diff lock and then turn on the front and
rear diff locks you don't hear anything nor do the lights on the dash
flash or light up at all.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB
 
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G

Guest

Guest
I took a look at Renate's truck yesterday.
As far as I can tell there is an electrical fault somewhere.
The Centre diff lock appears to work as expected.
When you engage low the centre diff lock and then turn on the front and
rear diff locks you don't hear anything nor do the lights on the dash
flash or light up at all.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB
 
G

Guest

Guest
Julian,
Engage by either putting in low ratio or switching CDL switch. The diff
engages and the light comes up on the dash and mains on and does not flash,
yes?
To engage the axle locks requires that the switch I mentioned earlier to
operate as this tells the computer that CDL is engaged, if it not get this
signal it will not engage because normally the 80 only allows sequential
engagement of the diff locks. CDL first then the axle locks. The switch can
be bypassed to check for engagement of the axle locks I believe. If the
there is a signal going through and the locks aren't engaging then one has
too listen for the whirring of the electric motor and then remove them to
identify the reason why they are not.
Anthony
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of Julian Voelcker
Sent: 14 March 2005 11:00
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] chat, and sulphur query
I took a look at Renate's truck yesterday.
As far as I can tell there is an electrical fault somewhere.
The Centre diff lock appears to work as expected.
When you engage low the centre diff lock and then turn on the front and
rear diff locks you don't hear anything nor do the lights on the dash
flash or light up at all.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Anthony,
On Renate's if you put it into Low ratio you get the CDL coming on and it
locks the centre diff as expected and you get the light on the dash.
When you rotate the knob to engage the front or front & rear diff locks,
nothing happens at all - you don't even get the flashing light on the dash to
indicate that the locks are trying to engage.
I haven't had a chance to investigate it properly.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Anthony,
On Renate's if you put it into Low ratio you get the CDL coming on and it
locks the centre diff as expected and you get the light on the dash.
When you rotate the knob to engage the front or front & rear diff locks,
nothing happens at all - you don't even get the flashing light on the dash to
indicate that the locks are trying to engage.
I haven't had a chance to investigate it properly.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hello,
I noticed a strange thing with my locker switch/light. With the
vehicle on stands I checked operation of the cetre diff and lockers
and they seem fine. However, the dashboard light for the front locker
keeps blinking, even if the locker is engaged? Rather unusual ....
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 12:08:43 GMT, Julian Voelcker
<[Email address removed]> wrote:
 
G

Guest

Guest
Roman
I'm no expert, but I have an assumptian that I think it blinks
intermitently as it establishes engagement, then I assume, the red icon
stays on until it is disengaged?
The CDL on mine comes on and doesn't flash, and stays on until it
either disengages as I turn the wheel automatically, or comes off when I
change gear from L ratio to normal.
Regards
Renate
>>> [Email address removed] 03/14/05 12:25pm >>>
Hello,
I noticed a strange thing with my locker switch/light. With the
vehicle on stands I checked operation of the cetre diff and lockers
and they seem fine. However, the dashboard light for the front locker
keeps blinking, even if the locker is engaged? Rather unusual ....
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 12:08:43 GMT, Julian Voelcker
<[Email address removed]> wrote:
> Hi Anthony,
>
> > Engage by either putting in low ratio or switching CDL switch. The
diff
> > engages and the light comes up on the dash and mains on and does
not flash,
> > yes?
>
> On Renate's if you put it into Low ratio you get the CDL coming on
and it
> locks the centre diff as expected and you get the light on the dash.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Roman
Normally blinking as Julian has said indicates that the diff has been
signaled to operate and a solids that it has engaged, it may be that yours
have not engaged fully. It is a good idea to exercise daily the
differential locks to maintain there use, it may be in you case Roman that
they need a to be used a little more often, I have heard from quite a few
people that better operation of the locks came about by frequent use. I now
operate mine several times a week by engaging them on and off while
negotiating my tracks I am luck with this facility as you all now that
working the locks on a high friction surface is not a good idea.
Anthony
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of Renate Haupt
Sent: 14 March 2005 12:34
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] chat, and sulphur query
Roman
I'm no expert, but I have an assumptian that I think it blinks intermitently
as it establishes engagement, then I assume, the red icon stays on until it
is disengaged?
The CDL on mine comes on and doesn't flash, and stays on until it either
disengages as I turn the wheel automatically, or comes off when I change
gear from L ratio to normal.
Regards
Renate
>>> [Email address removed] 03/14/05 12:25pm >>>
Hello,
I noticed a strange thing with my locker switch/light. With the
vehicle on stands I checked operation of the cetre diff and lockers
and they seem fine. However, the dashboard light for the front locker
keeps blinking, even if the locker is engaged? Rather unusual ....
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 12:08:43 GMT, Julian Voelcker
<[Email address removed]> wrote:
> Hi Anthony,
>
> > Engage by either putting in low ratio or switching CDL switch. The diff
> > engages and the light comes up on the dash and mains on and does not
flash,
> > yes?
>
> On Renate's if you put it into Low ratio you get the CDL coming on and it
> locks the centre diff as expected and you get the light on the dash.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Roman,
That could be down to the sensor on the diff not sending the signal to
say that is has engaged.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Roman,
That could be down to the sensor on the diff not sending the signal to
say that is has engaged.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB
 
G

Guest

Guest
Julian,
Good point. I'll check how the sensor is wired and simulate the
"locked" condition to see if it makes a difference.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 13:40:15 GMT, Julian Voelcker
<[Email address removed]> wrote:
 
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