G
Guest
Guest
Jon et al,
apparently (and I've had this on good authority) there needs to be wheel spin before the RR-FR diff locks.
Mine has never worked, so am thinking of looking in to it when the weather becomes a little more clement. I really hate the cold with a passion and would be useless in any of the scandinvian countries in winter! my option is the dry heat of the desert - I can handle this and all that goes with it, like sand storms, dust storms, blocked up mechanisms, seizures, these kinds of things, and l'beast likes the diesel over there, too.
Also a query to anyone who is in the know - recently [saturday] I filled up one of my sub tanks. At the time I didn't think there was anything amis. But on driving hard (350 plus miles) this weekend I smelled serious rotten eggs, got out my manuals, checked things associated with sulphur smells like info on injectors, like the potential for blocked injectors, or build up of certain chemicals or muck in the tank, and the like but couldn't find anything that could be done aside from use up that rogue fuel and get a fresh tank. I've still got quite a bit in that tank. Any thoughts or ideas as to why on occasions the sulphur smell was pretty intense?
Cheers y' al
Renate
>>> [Email address removed] 03/13/05 05:56pm >>>
Re: diff locks
Some people have had problems with lockers being slow or failing to
engage, but as a percentage I think it's very low considering the few
reports and how many LC's are out there. The normal cause suggested is
lack of use - a lot of owners don't even know they are fitted to their
motor never mind what to do with them so they sit unused for 12 years or
so. When there is a problem with the actuators they can usually be fixed
if you're prepared to take them apart and service them. Note it's the
actuators (electric motor with a spring!) that fails, I've yet to read
of a diff failure but it must happen sometimes. If you test drive one,
be aware that often they won't engage until there is a different speed
at each end of the axle. Zig zags on mud, gravel or sand is useful for
testing. Also, the centre diff lock has to be engaged before the axle
diff locks will work.
I've no personal experience of ARB's but I read about plenty of problems
with them. I'd much rather trust MR Toyota's engineering than ARB if I
have a choice.
On 93 onwards UK vehicles there is no manual control of the centre diff
lock as standard - it's unlocked in high and locked in low. =A320 or so
will buy you a switch from Toyota which let's you engage the centre diff
lock manually and the wiring for it is already behind the dash, just
remove a blanking plug and connect the switch. I think Toyota were
worried people would drive round with the diff locked without realising
and destroy their drive line.
Re: Transmission
Both our 80's have auto boxes and I wouldn't change to manual for all
the tea in china. Each to their own and all that but in a tight spot I
have easier control by holding on the brake without also having to work
the clutch and be sure where it will bite. My 94 has seen a lot of
difficult terrain and works well for me. Many times I have been in
situations where I'm sure the momentum lost while changing gear in a
manual would stop me getting through. I'm talking about slogging up
muddy inclines or across bog where I want to hit it at speed for maximum
momentum and let the box change down when the time is right (on private
land of course).
Best Regards,
Jon.
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Dyfed Bowen
Sent: 13 March 2005 10:05
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] Buying an 80
dont think i will have much work for one in dunes
not many dunes in lancashire!
however plenty of lanes and offroad sites to contend with.
what i find funny is that people will buy a landrover and spend 1.5k on
arb air compressors however an LC 80 has them fitted as std
maybe the arb is better but from the outset you have the advantage with
the LC!
dyf
apparently (and I've had this on good authority) there needs to be wheel spin before the RR-FR diff locks.
Mine has never worked, so am thinking of looking in to it when the weather becomes a little more clement. I really hate the cold with a passion and would be useless in any of the scandinvian countries in winter! my option is the dry heat of the desert - I can handle this and all that goes with it, like sand storms, dust storms, blocked up mechanisms, seizures, these kinds of things, and l'beast likes the diesel over there, too.
Also a query to anyone who is in the know - recently [saturday] I filled up one of my sub tanks. At the time I didn't think there was anything amis. But on driving hard (350 plus miles) this weekend I smelled serious rotten eggs, got out my manuals, checked things associated with sulphur smells like info on injectors, like the potential for blocked injectors, or build up of certain chemicals or muck in the tank, and the like but couldn't find anything that could be done aside from use up that rogue fuel and get a fresh tank. I've still got quite a bit in that tank. Any thoughts or ideas as to why on occasions the sulphur smell was pretty intense?
Cheers y' al
Renate
>>> [Email address removed] 03/13/05 05:56pm >>>
Re: diff locks
Some people have had problems with lockers being slow or failing to
engage, but as a percentage I think it's very low considering the few
reports and how many LC's are out there. The normal cause suggested is
lack of use - a lot of owners don't even know they are fitted to their
motor never mind what to do with them so they sit unused for 12 years or
so. When there is a problem with the actuators they can usually be fixed
if you're prepared to take them apart and service them. Note it's the
actuators (electric motor with a spring!) that fails, I've yet to read
of a diff failure but it must happen sometimes. If you test drive one,
be aware that often they won't engage until there is a different speed
at each end of the axle. Zig zags on mud, gravel or sand is useful for
testing. Also, the centre diff lock has to be engaged before the axle
diff locks will work.
I've no personal experience of ARB's but I read about plenty of problems
with them. I'd much rather trust MR Toyota's engineering than ARB if I
have a choice.
On 93 onwards UK vehicles there is no manual control of the centre diff
lock as standard - it's unlocked in high and locked in low. =A320 or so
will buy you a switch from Toyota which let's you engage the centre diff
lock manually and the wiring for it is already behind the dash, just
remove a blanking plug and connect the switch. I think Toyota were
worried people would drive round with the diff locked without realising
and destroy their drive line.
Re: Transmission
Both our 80's have auto boxes and I wouldn't change to manual for all
the tea in china. Each to their own and all that but in a tight spot I
have easier control by holding on the brake without also having to work
the clutch and be sure where it will bite. My 94 has seen a lot of
difficult terrain and works well for me. Many times I have been in
situations where I'm sure the momentum lost while changing gear in a
manual would stop me getting through. I'm talking about slogging up
muddy inclines or across bog where I want to hit it at speed for maximum
momentum and let the box change down when the time is right (on private
land of course).
Best Regards,
Jon.
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Dyfed Bowen
Sent: 13 March 2005 10:05
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] Buying an 80
dont think i will have much work for one in dunes
not many dunes in lancashire!
however plenty of lanes and offroad sites to contend with.
what i find funny is that people will buy a landrover and spend 1.5k on
arb air compressors however an LC 80 has them fitted as std
maybe the arb is better but from the outset you have the advantage with
the LC!
dyf
