Clunk while turning

[Beej O'Dwyer]

Cv joints I reckon

I took the front track bar off to check the bushes, they were fine so I put it back on. Also filled one of the steering arm grease nippled rubber things up with grease and the clink has stopped. No idea how but it appears one the these fixed it.

 

[tolley]

Might be worn a bit inside and grease as filled the area but not for long I think, but good that you found it and not to bad a fix nice one

 

[Beej O'Dwyer]

Might be worn a bit inside and grease as filled the area but not for long I think, but good that you found it and not to bad a fix nice one

Yeah dunno mate. I guess we’ll see.

 

[Van Rhyn]

Recently I have developed a loud clunk while turning.1) It is a loud single clunk from the front of the car, I swear I can even feel it if my foot is on the tray beneath the pedals.2) Everything I can see seems tight, all bushes seem ok etc.3) It happens first while turning one way and then the other, never seems to happen twice while turning one way. It seems to be worse if the axle is articulated or I'm travelling at speed and the car is leaning4) It's not the sway bars as I've removed them5) I've removed the steering stabiliser and it seems a little funny when extended fully but not too bad6) I've checked around the steering box even and don't see any cracks on the chassis!The only thing I can think of is the CV joints but I just redid these recently (non genuine) and I thought that this would lead to a more constant clicking in line with the wheel turning?I'm at a complete loss! Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I have the same flippin sound . Also speed cornering and once to the one side then the other

 

[Beej O'Dwyer]

Recently I have developed a loud clunk while turning.1) It is a loud single clunk from the front of the car, I swear I can even feel it if my foot is on the tray beneath the pedals.2) Everything I can see seems tight, all bushes seem ok etc.3) It happens first while turning one way and then the other, never seems to happen twice while turning one way. It seems to be worse if the axle is articulated or I'm travelling at speed and the car is leaning4) It's not the sway bars as I've removed them5) I've removed the steering stabiliser and it seems a little funny when extended fully but not too bad6) I've checked around the steering box even and don't see any cracks on the chassis!The only thing I can think of is the CV joints but I just redid these recently (non genuine) and I thought that this would lead to a more constant clicking in line with the wheel turning?I'm at a complete loss! Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I had same issue and fixed it in a strange way but has definitely stopped the clunk. All I did is take off front track bar then refit it. Then I pumped the passenger side tie rod full of grease and that was it. Not sure how but one of these things fixed the clunk

 

[clivehorridge]

A common issue on 80’s is the axle mount for the sway or anti-roll bar, (depending on where you’re from).

The mounting plates sheared off on both sides of mine, and it’s not just mine that it’s happened to, ask @fbnss (Nick)...

 

[Dave_S]

Coincidentally Janet mentioned suffering bump steer in the Cruiser this week - checked everything underneath and nothing loose, all the bushes were changed not too long ago, all track rod ends are good. Jacked up the front end and OSF wheel has play - nothing when levering front and back, but levering top and bottom of the tyre shows about 1/8th inch play at the tyre... thinking must be king pins rather than wheel bearings, as not movement front to back. Any thoughts? Also noticed the OSF tyre has more wear than the NSF (which has no play at all).

 

[frank rabbets]

Is the wear on the OS tyre on the outer or inner of the tyre? Normally with correct tracking an 80 in uk will scrub the outside of the NS tyre more than the OS tyre due to road camber. If you let go of the steering the car will drift to the left so correcting it through the steering wheel to keep you on the road will wear the NS tyre on it's outside. I now do more miles on left hand drive roads than uk roads and the drivers side outside tyre wear is now catching up with the passenger side. It's faulty tracking that normally kills the tyre. Back in 60's a garage tracked my car wrong and the tyres wore out in no time at all. My dad taught me how to use string which I've used ever since and have never had a tracking problem. Good enough for F1 cars up until the 80's so good enough for a LC.

If it is king pin play that will affect the tracking as the hub steering arm is horizontally pivoting over a bump. That might affect the steering but 1/8 inch is nothing really.

 

[Dave_S]

Hi Frank - the OSF is slightly more heavily worn than the NSF, with slight scuffing on the inside edge. Tracking was done a while back (last year) and seems good - car generally pulls straight on flat roads, but has recently started developing this bump steer issue. As I can't find play anywhere else, I can only assume its the king pin bearings? I presume its the swivel bearings themselves, rather than wear in the pin itself?

 

[Dave_S]

Also - what do you think re rebuild kits: https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/toyota...plete-front-hub-swivel-overhaul-kit-8875.html

 

[frank rabbets]

It's towing out if the inside of either the front tyres are scuffed. Cause could be either set up incorrectly or wear in the king pin bearings. Incorrect towing won't cause the car to pull one way or the other on a level surface. That's why a lot of tyres get ruineed as the driver only becomes aware after damage is seen.

The tapered roller king pin bearings usually wear rather than the pins themselves.

I can't speak about the roughtrax kit. When I rebuilt my hubs I used bearings from a bearing shop and genuine Toyota seals.

Chris did a good write up on hub rebuilds.

 

[Dave_S]

Cheers Frank. Don't have a local bearing shop unfortunately, so everything like this gets mail ordered in - Roughtrax kit looks pretty comprehensive, says OE bearings and Yota seals, so thinking it would be worth a punt.

 

[frank rabbets]

Steve, thinking further, if your pins have any play at all they must be totally shot. There is such a preload on them that if there is play there is a lot of lost movement. The reason I rebuilt my hubs was that I had noticed that although there was no play the hubs were almost stuck in the ahead position. I had the ball joints off each side and it took some force to rotate the hubs individually. Then they would spring back to the ahead position when released. There was still enough preload left to stop play though. The tapered rollers had become very rutted and had caused this. It's a messy job but you only really need the manual for the various torque figures. When it's done you'll defo have to check the tracking. I would have confidence in the RT kit if that's as described.

 

[Dave2000]

Unsure if this has been sorted yet? I would get a good look at the panhard rod, the bushes wear and given your noise changes during articulation, (panhard rod angle alters) I would be getting in there with a long bar and do some prying.

regards

Dave

 

[Sandy60]

If you have leaf springs its the leaf pack shifting slightly on full lock side to side. Very common issue, it doesn't cause damage but sounds awful. You can check the ubolt is tight on your spring packs or if taking apart pop a few rubber or graphite shims inbetween moving leafs to deaden noise. Also a good idea to check leaf pack bushes arn't worn and the bolt is tight as any play will result in movement during side to side steering. Greasing the leaves only makes it worse. Usually you can hear it more when they're wet.

 

[Dave2000]

Hi and welcome.

Is that a model of 80 I have not seen with leaf springs?

Regards

Dave