Clutch Slip Travel Risk?

[Toadshade]

I am leaving on a 2000 mile trip tomorrow and my clutch just slipped on me while on a really muddy steep short hill. I would appreciate any peace of mind about my clutch failing. I have never lost a clutch before but since I am about to leave for the mountains in sub zero temps it would be good to know if I am about to clunk out. I admit I abused the hill and popped the clutch to go up fast and as a result I slipped up the hill. At the top I smelled the clutch but after that everything worked fine. I drove for 10 miles and if I popped the clutch on the road I would have stalled it. And there is no difference in any gear. Is this a sign that is just getting worn or am I about to lose it? No oil leaks. If I were just driving it around I would not have noticed anything at all.

 

[Dave2000]

Difficult one to call, I would have said run it around and plan a clutch for a more convenient time however, if your going on a trip I would assume you would be adding load and weight to the car, and you plan on mountains with mega cold temps. I would put it in for a clutch, even if just for peace of mind.

Regards

Dave

 

[Firewout]

Savage clutch test : pull up handbrake or put blocks before wheels so the truck is immobile. Push in clutch, select 5th gear, try to drive away by releasing clutch and lots of right foot.
If the clutch slips very easily : change it. If the engine really has to struggle or stalls, then there is still some life in it.
I repeat : savage test! Not to be repeated a lot.

 

[frank rabbets]

Less savage test is to go up to 3000rpm in any gear and with your foot hard on the pedal apply the brakes with your left foot. The car should come to a halt with a stalled engine. This proves that the engaged clutch will cope with the maximum power the engine can deliver.

 

[Dave2000]

Whilst I agree the 'savage test' has it's merits although on more modern vehicles it is not something I would do as it can rip the dual mass flywheel to pieces, I am looking at the content of the OP's post, 'my clutch just slipped on me while on a really muddy steep short hill'. If the clutch was slipping whilst the wheels are on mud, and add in the smell of a burning clutch, I would be reluctant to take the chance on a journey that is about to be in mountains (think engine braking again load on the clutch with undoubtedly a heavier luggage load on board), and perhaps more important than all of this is the 'sub zero' temperatures, nice place to be stranded.

This is why I prefer a manual to an automatic when in remote places, at least you get some warning before a transmission component is about to fail.

Regards

Dave

 

[Chris]

I had to replace a clutch on mine one day before a month long trip around Europe towing a trailer. Super panic job, wrong clutch etc etc jeez, sorted at 11th hour and £600 lighter but just as well I did. I don't think I'd have made it there and back.

Good advice from all so far, but I'd add in there, just take 5 mins to bleed your clutch. See how it feels then. Yes, the plate is held by the clutch cover, not the slave cylinder but it's worth just refreshing the system sometimes as poor actuation can cause odd issues at times. It won't be the cause of any slipping, but it might help in further diagnosis. Eliminate all the variables as they say. it will also ensure that you have the right free play.

 

[Shayne]

Acting as the devils advocate i'd say the clutch is supposed to slip and be abused or else we wouldn't need one at all .

Who was it that burned/glazed the clutch on a steep hill maybe a year ago ? shortly after fitting a top mount intercooler maybe ? who posted a similar question ?

 

[Toadshade]

Great advice. I did a couple "lighter" tests and the truck is handling the load. Shayne brought up a good question. Is there an amount of slip that is expected? Could a glazed clutch slip regardless or is it simply supposed to catch no matter what if the pedal is not depressed? I am going to see what I need to do to bleed the clutch. This is something I have not dug into yet since up to now it has been one thing that has worked great for the two years I have owned it.

 

[Shayne]

Heavy duty clutch recommendations.

Well, didn't think I would be needing one of these before fitting a G turbo/wink. Couple of days ago floored it going up a steep hill in fourth, hit the sweet spot, turbo whistled and the boost gauge shot up to 15 psi. As did the tacho.. Slipped on a couple of occasions now, so turned down...

www.landcruiserclub.net

 

[Higgy]

I think i remember that Shayne..... Was it Mr Chapelgate?...... (Edit) Ah! you beat me to it

 

[Higgy]

what mileage is on your Truck Mr Toadshade?...... Mines on its original clutch at 333,000 miles.... so they are quite capable of lasting a while... and i pull trailers and its constantly loaded up with Crap...

 

[Toadshade]

Mine is pretty much in the same condition. I pull a lot. It is always loaded and has 370k km. I am sure it is the original clutch. No doubt it is at the end of its rope. I am heading out now for the trip. We’ll see what happens. I know I will be ok on the side of the road if it happens, I am more worried about my wife…

 

[Higgy]

Good Luck.... Remember its an 80 series even if its Knackered it will still get you home, Or to the nearest Garage

 

[Chris]

I would venture to suggest that no, no slip is expected in a clutch. The engine should stall first. The clutch does have springs in it that act radially to prevent harsh snatch (Oooer) when setting off. Also we all slip the clutch on purpose during hill starts and so on. That's what it's designed for. But for there to be any loss of drive once the plate is fully engaged should only occur when there is excessive wear and it's time for a new one. It's a bit like asking what's an acceptable number of breakdown to have in any period... errr well none.
So, slipping the clutch is not the same as the clutch slipping. If movement of the friction plate occurs when fully engaged then I'd suggest you're going to be looking at damage in the drive line. The engine stalling is in effect a sort of safety valve.

 

[essexpete]

Find a reasonable hill on dry tarmac. Whilst going up hill at a reasonable speed dip the clutch and let is back in gently at the same time as booting the accelerator. I wonder if the original slippage was wheel spin?

 

[Jake the Peg]

I’d think if the clutch was indeed slipping in the mud, and not being ridden, with that mileage it would be worth making plans to have it changed asap, as you don’t have time to do it before you leave can you schedule a day to have it done on the trip, this will also allow you to plan a suitable shop to do the work and source the clutch kit. Last place you want to end up on is on a flatbed when you could be enjoying yourself!

 

[Higgy]

The Poor Chap is 'gonna' have a terrible trip, One half of his Brain will be thinking about flipping Burgers and supping ale , And the other half will be thinking about when his Clutch is 'gonna' let go....

 

[Toadshade]

Half way there Higgy. You got that right!

 

[Higgy]

You'll be Fine, Crack On

 

[frank rabbets]

Check the slave cylinder pushrod. If it is tight it could be keeping the clutch open slightly. Unlikely but worth checking 5 minute job rather than 5 days lol.