cv joint

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Guest
Hi Guys
Just wondered if any of you have heard of this cure before or if there is
any thing in what he says.
Item no 190111787454 on ebay.
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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Guest
John
I had my CV joints replaced 7k miles ago (with Milners versions) and it
got rid of a whole load of slop in the transmission, making it a totally
different car to drive. I certainly wouldn't spend money on trying to
eliminate the free play that remains, and remember that it's a manual
which shows it up far more than an auto box.
CB
| Hi Guys
| Just wondered if any of you have heard of this cure before or if there
is
| any thing in what he says.
| Item no 190111787454 on ebay.
| john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
____________________________________________________________
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Hi John,
Early 80s had narrow drive flanges and shorter CVs leading to more strain on
the smaller contact area leadiing to more rapid wear.
As the guy said, around 1994 the CVs were upgraded to be longer and the
drive flange plates were wider, almost doubling the surface area between the
CV and the flange.
This is a problem Lio has on his 80 and he worked it up that slop in the
CV/Drive flange was increased by around 4 times as you work up the
driveline.
As for the CV's he is selling, you need to check that they fit your car - it
doesn't have the ABS ring on it so may not be appropriate.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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Hey Christopher
I didn't know that, so yet another thing learned today.
No wonder it takes a life time to know the in's and out's of a cruiser, but
what can I do now I only have only a half a life time left.
Any suggestions on how to assimulate all the info I need before I reach the
full life span, although some days I feel i have reached that stage already
phyisically.
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
SNIP
I certainly wouldn't spend money on trying to
eliminate the free play that remains, and remember that it's a manual
which shows it up far more than an auto box.
CB
 
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Guest

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Hey Julian
Ok what does this mean in terms that I can understand
Its just I am always chasing the possible better sulution to the main
problems i have had with my cruiser.
john 92 1HDT HDJ 80
SNIP
This is a problem Lio has on his 80 and he worked it up that slop in the
CV/Drive flange was increased by around 4 times as you work up the
driveline.
Julian Voelcker
 
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Guest

Guest
Hi John,
If you have the older narrower drive flanges the splines between the
CV/flange are more prone to wear because they are under more pressure
due to the smaller contact area.
As the joint wears, (assuming equal wear on the CV and Flange) it
introduces slack in the drive train which is best illustrated as
follows:
In theory if you have a brand new CV and flange plate they should fit
nice and snuggly together and if you put the CV in a vice and then try
to turn the flange plate on the end of the CV the flange shouldn't be
able to rotate at all.
With a worn CV and flange in the same setup (in vice), you might be
able to move the flange a degree or two back and forth - this
multiplies up through the drive train resulting in around 4-8degrees of
slack. When you add this to slack in the diffs, etc you can end up
with quite thud in the drive train when engaging drive, decellerating,
etc.
Now with the narrower flanges, and the smmaller contact area between
the CV and the flange, as soon as you get some wear/movement, the rate
of wear increase and you can end up in a situation where the splines on
the CV and Flange wear away completely and the CV just spins around in
the flange - due to the way the 4wd system all the drive goes to this
wheel and therefore you don't go anywhere, which I think is what
happened to you.
Toyota recognised this issue and introduced longer CVs and deeper
flange plates, essentially doubling the contact are between the two -
with these newer components you still get the wear, but at a much
slower rate so in general now the CV should wear out quicker than the
splines on the end and in the flange plate.
This is why one of the golden rules when replacing the a CV is that you
should also replace the flange plate - if you replace the CV, but
retain the already part worn flange plate, you end up with accelerated
wear of the splines on the end of the CV.
As Chris said, when he had his CVs replaced last year the whole drive
train felt a lot tighter - this is the effect of the new splines.
Hope that helps ;-)
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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Hi Julian
Thanks a lot for that info and I even understood it all.
So when ordering a new cv and flange would it be a good idea to get the post
94 ones and if so will they fit perfectly. Its just a while back you had a
problem with a Cv you bought from Milners, was it too big or something but
you needed to alter it a bit.
thanks
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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Hi John,
Yes you should be fine with it - that's what Lio is intending to do.
We did have a problem trying to get the CV to fit, it was very tight in the
flange, although I do suspect that it may have been something to do with the
fitter (not me!) and also partly to do with the fact that Milner have changed
the inner hub oil seal that they supply in their kit - the design is different
to the regular Toyo one and it does make it a lot harder to bed the wheel
bearings in properly and get the hub fully backk on the spindle which in turn
makes it harder to get the circlip onto the end of the CV.
As a rule, if you are struggling to get the circlip on to the end of the CV and
you are only a fraction of a mm out, I would pull the hub off and double check
the seating of all the bearings and seals.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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