G
Guest
Guest
Ed wrote...
The Australian spec 80s have separate main and dip headlight, don't know
what they would cost but you could mess about with bulbs to your hearts
contect with them.
SNIP
Beg to differ, as the owner of an Australasian market 80. (As are
many in my neck of the woods).
There are not separate lamps for dip and main at least for those up
until late 1996.
There are four separate rectangular lamps. The outer two have
main/dip filaments. The inner two have main beams only. (Some will
remember the difficulty that I had preventing the snow building-up in
them which I cured with an Oz made Aunger headlamp protector screen).
The lamps are of very high quality, and originally sealed beam, I
still have 2 of them working well, but have replaced 2 with bulb
holder style lamps.
One 'feature' of this set up (a lot of 'features' with Toyotas) is
that when on dip beam, there is a trace of current running through
the inner lamp's filament which just glows deep orange. This has been
observed in all the 80's I see with this type of lamp, which includes
the many we have had in office fleets.
As for upgrading the power of the lamp themselves, I tend to agree
with another choice (Roman?) which is to go the driving lamp route.
The 80 main beam is great but the dip notoriously feeble. It is the
same with my Pajero, yet also using the mandatory Jap market foglamps
the dip beam is well augmented using them without any offence to
other road users.
When I grow up and have enough pocket money saved I will put a couple
of driving lamps on my bullbar and leave the headlamp circuit well
alone. That way I can install a simple relay system with a dedicated
power supply and will not upset any of the Toy electricals. JB - I
would do it that way if you can mount the lamps in the front.
Back to JB's DIN sockets. I also used a splitter for larger cooler
box (4x2 litre water bottles ++) GPS, radar scanner, walkie talkie.
etc. etc. But the coolbox 6 amp draw was plenty on its own, so I put
in a separate socket to run that which I tapped into the main feed
off the ignition switch. I did it this way primarily not to make
another excuse for a leak through the bulkhead when I am fording.
Now get those DIN sockets fitted JB ;o)
Cheers
Jon
'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus from Bosnia
The Australian spec 80s have separate main and dip headlight, don't know
what they would cost but you could mess about with bulbs to your hearts
contect with them.
SNIP
Beg to differ, as the owner of an Australasian market 80. (As are
many in my neck of the woods).
There are not separate lamps for dip and main at least for those up
until late 1996.
There are four separate rectangular lamps. The outer two have
main/dip filaments. The inner two have main beams only. (Some will
remember the difficulty that I had preventing the snow building-up in
them which I cured with an Oz made Aunger headlamp protector screen).
The lamps are of very high quality, and originally sealed beam, I
still have 2 of them working well, but have replaced 2 with bulb
holder style lamps.
One 'feature' of this set up (a lot of 'features' with Toyotas) is
that when on dip beam, there is a trace of current running through
the inner lamp's filament which just glows deep orange. This has been
observed in all the 80's I see with this type of lamp, which includes
the many we have had in office fleets.
As for upgrading the power of the lamp themselves, I tend to agree
with another choice (Roman?) which is to go the driving lamp route.
The 80 main beam is great but the dip notoriously feeble. It is the
same with my Pajero, yet also using the mandatory Jap market foglamps
the dip beam is well augmented using them without any offence to
other road users.
When I grow up and have enough pocket money saved I will put a couple
of driving lamps on my bullbar and leave the headlamp circuit well
alone. That way I can install a simple relay system with a dedicated
power supply and will not upset any of the Toy electricals. JB - I
would do it that way if you can mount the lamps in the front.
Back to JB's DIN sockets. I also used a splitter for larger cooler
box (4x2 litre water bottles ++) GPS, radar scanner, walkie talkie.
etc. etc. But the coolbox 6 amp draw was plenty on its own, so I put
in a separate socket to run that which I tapped into the main feed
off the ignition switch. I did it this way primarily not to make
another excuse for a leak through the bulkhead when I am fording.
Now get those DIN sockets fitted JB ;o)
Cheers
Jon
'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus from Bosnia