could you remove me from your list............
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
Sent: 15 December 2005 18:28
Subject: [ELCO Digest]
=======================================================================From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: [ELCO] din sockets
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 19:43:35 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi Guys
I bet you lot thought i was gone well sorry but so such luck. I know I know
we already had this debate but well this is a little different.
I may be getting around to fitting a three way Din socket to the panel
where the handbrake is and maybe one in the boot aswell.
My question or questions are do I need to connect these three socket Dins
directly up to the battery, (direct wire from the Dins to the battery) or
can I branch into some wiring some where or is that gambling too much when
I really dont know what im doing.
Could the rear Dins be connected to some wiring in the rear wheel wells,
just a thought even if its a bad one.
Also does any one know of a place that will supply a direct hook up heater
in the Uk or closer to me like Ireland.
It seems all i can get is the ones in the US and the shipping is too much.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
=======================================================================From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: [ELCO] head lights and all that
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 20:06:06 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi Guys
Im in the process of trying out some sets of bulbs in my quest to find more
light.
I have tried three sets so far and there all crap inregards to getting more
light.
They do give out a normal amount of light but not what they claim.
One set claimed to give a super white light and had 60/55W with an arrow
pointing to 130/110W giving the impression that you get the latter for the
former, well you dont.
Another set, high performance up grade + 30% well I cant see it (get it).
Another set again plus 20% again they are whiter, but more light I dont
think so.
I have another set coming soon and will let you know but I have a feelling
im wasting my time and money but sure nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Just thought it may be of interest to you lot.
Im also going to try a set of spots that have 12 LED bulbs instead of a one
filiment bulb.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
=======================================================================From: "Andrew Marshallsay" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: [ELCO] Introductions and importing from Japan
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 20:15:23 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi there
Just been given a link to this list.
I'm not a Land Cruiser owner yet, but I'm saving up for an 80-series
Turbo Diesel.
I've just sold my Range Rover Classic, and fancy an 80 series next.
I'm not in any rush to buy, so I thought about importing from Japan.
I've imported a vehicle from the States before, I'm close to Southampton
docks, and I've got a neighbour who can speak/read Japanese, so it
doesn't seem too bad.
Anyone here done a personal import ?
Is there a good choice of '91-'97 80 Series left in Japan, or are they
all here already !!
That will do for my first post.
Oh - here are a few piccies of me and my mates in Fraser Island
Australia a couple of years back
http://www.btinternet.com/~andrew_marshallsay/Aus2003/thumb5.html The
Hi-top cruiser was my hire-car for the week.
Andy Marshallsay
Vice Chairman Shire Land Rover Club ('Crusiers welcome)
Winchester, Hampshire
http://www.marshallsay.com/My_cars/my_cars.htm
=======================================================================From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: [ELCO] diff actuators
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 20:20:29 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi Guys
I was just wondering if I do get around to looking at the diff actuators to
see if they work properly what am I looking at/for. I know they are little
boxes on the axles but after that well nothing.
Do I have to take them apart and look at the wiring or something else, how
do I know what to do to fix them. If any one has taken one apart give me all
the horror stories about all the little bits that I can lose or the cost if
I do something wrong or the loss of my cruiser if I mess up etc.
I still have not changed over to the synthetic for the engine cause im still
waiting on the engine flush from the guy, good job im in no hurry now isn't
it.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
=======================================================================From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Introductions and importing from Japan
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 20:27:01 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi Andrew
Welcome over to the other side but will you not be stoned or burned at the
stake for converting to a cruiser and you being the Vice Chairman of a Rover
club.
You've got me all depressed now looking at all those photos with all the sun
/sea etc. Ill go now im so upset.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
=======================================================================Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 21:20:07 +0000
From: Roman <[Email address removed]>
Subject: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hello guys,
I've kept quiet for a while not because I am dead but rather busy
getting organised for my trip and tie up the end of year business in
the office.
Now, being as busy as mentioned above I had to have the front bearings
(both sides) replaced by a reputable workshop.
How much time do you think they needed to do the job?
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
=======================================================================Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 22:37:29 +0100
From: Denis Decoster <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Roman a ?crit :
1 hour ?
=======================================================================Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 22:41:42 +0100
From: Denis Decoster <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Introductions and importing from Japan
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Andrew Marshallsay a ?crit :
Hey Andy, welcome to the dark side !
How about converting the ibex to an all-toyota running gear ? This has
been one of my projects for a long time ;o)
denis
=======================================================================Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 22:59:35 +0100
From: Denis Decoster <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] din sockets
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
John Byrne a ?crit :
John,
there's a small box in the engine compartment labeled "power output" or
something like that, that looks like a small fuse box. It's there just
for wiring some aftermarket accessories like what you're willing to do.
I think there are 3 lines in it, each with a fuse : one is a permanent
+12V, one only works when the ign. key is on "ACC" or "ON", and one only
works when the key is on "ON". I would definately go from there, and add
an additionnal fuse sized afterwards from your sockets' maximum rating.
Run 2 wires, + from this box and ground from the battery. I wouldn't try
to connect to the existing harness, it would be a wiring nightmare. If
you take your time and remove the plastic trims and/or carpets you will
be able to do aclean, invisible job. Use at least 6mm? cables if you're
planning on powering a fridge. Make sure the fuse in the power output
box has a big enough amperage rating. If not, go hook your (properly
fused) line directly to the battery. Do not "upgrade" the fuse in the
power output box, you would be taking the risk of burning the whole
truck down. (this holds true for any fuse in your system.)
good luck ! when in doubt, ask for advice (I'm sure you will ;o)
bye,
denis
=======================================================================Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 23:02:48 +0100
From: Denis Decoster <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] din sockets
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
John Byrne a ?crit :
John,
there's a small box in the engine compartment labeled "power output" or
something like that, that looks like a small fuse box. It's there just
for wiring some aftermarket accessories like what you're willing to do.
I think there are 3 lines in it, each with a fuse : one is a permanent
+12V, one only works when the ign. key is on "ACC" or "ON", and one only
works when the key is on "ON". Choose the one that fits your needs. I
would definately go from this box, and add another fuse just afterwards.
The additionnal fuse would be sized from your sockets' maximum rating.
Run 2 wires, + from this box and ground from the battery. I wouldn't try
to connect to the existing harness, it would be a wiring nightmare. If
you take your time and remove the plastic trims and/or carpets you will
be able to do aclean, invisible job. Use at least 6mm? cables if you're
planning on powering a fridge. Make sure the fuse in the power output
box has a big enough amperage rating. If not, go hook your (properly
fused) line directly to the battery. Do not "upgrade" the fuse in the
power output box, you would be taking the risk of burning the whole
truck down. (this holds true for any fuse in your system.)
good luck ! when in doubt, ask for advice (I'm sure you will ;o)
bye,
denis
=======================================================================Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 22:50:19 +0000
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
From: Jeremy Llewellyn-Jones <[Email address removed]>
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
I reckon about 3 - 4 hours to do a full knuckle strip and rebuild, down to
replacing the axle oil seal... For each wheel, not working particularly
quickly.
Bearings should be a lot less...
On 14/12/05 21:20, "Roman" <[Email address removed]> wrote:
Jeremy Llewellyn-Jones
Mob: 07831 458 793
--
=======================================================================Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 23:00:25 -0000
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
From: Julian Voelcker <[Email address removed]>
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi Roman,
Last ones I did took about an hour and a half for both sides, from
driving it to driving out. With air tools I guess I could cut that
down a bit more.
So go on and give us a laugh, how long did it take them?
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
=======================================================================From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 23:00:04 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
O come on Roman dont keep us in suspence I have to know ill bet its a lot
longer than you thought and your still thinking did they do as good a job as
you would have yourself.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
=======================================================================From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] din sockets
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 23:02:01 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi Denis
Thanks for that info ill have a look in the light of day and see what I can
see or in my case not see and have to ask a lot more stupid silly questions
.
cheers
JOhn C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
=======================================================================Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 23:09:24 +0000
From: Clive Marks <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Introductions and importing from Japan
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Andy,
Welcome, enjoy the cruiser when you get it.
Most of the imports coming in now are Amazons, the 80's dried up
a couple of years ago. You could probably still get one if you try
hard. I think most of them went to Australia, not here. The only thing
I've imported is an East German army truck, no comparison to a car.
Watch the specs on the cruisers, they differ wildly in different areas
of the world. Most of the Jap ones do not have diff locks, or a third
row of seats.
Regards, Clive.
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 00:01:00 -0000
Subject: Re: [ELCO] diff actuators
From: Julian Voelcker <[Email address removed]>
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi John,
If you are used to the vehicle and diff locks you can generally test
them by driving around a muddy field, however if you don't know what
you are looking for it is best to check it manually as follows:
To check the diff lock actuators on an axle do the following:
Jack the axle up so that the wheels are off the ground - ideally stick
it up on axle stands. Only jack up one end of the vehicel at a time.
Put the car into Low Range to lock up the central diff lock or use the
Centre Diff Lock switch if you have one.
Put the car in gear/Drive and turn the ignition on. When you do this
you should hear the whirr/click from the transfer case as the power
engages the centre diff lock.
Now with the centre diff locked, when you turn one of the wheels on the
raised axle the opposite wheel should turn in the opposite direction -
this is expected behaviour.
Now engage the diff lock switch making sure that it is set to lock the
diff that you are working on - when you turn the rotary switch you
should hear a wirring/click noise as the actuator attempts to lock the
diff - don't worry if you don't hear anything - my front diff lock is
silent, but my back one is quite noisey - they vary quite a bit.
The actuator will engage the locking mechanism, however the actual diff
might not lock straight away purely because the gears aren't lined up.
For example I have driven across some really boggy fields with the diff
lock light flashing but the locks not engaging because the wheels
haven't been slipped enough for the mechanism to rotate enough to
engage. To simulate the slipping, rotate one of the raised wheels -
you should hear a click as the diff locks and then you will find that
you can't turn the wheels anymore (because the centre diff is also
locked and other wheels on the other axle are on the ground and unable
to rotate).
Sometimes you might find the diffs locking, but the light still flash
indicating that they haven't locked yet - this could either be down to
faulty sensor or wiring (quite common) or the actuator has been removed
and incorrectly re-installed so the it is moving enough to engage the
diff lock, but not enough to touch the sensor.
If the wheels don't lock, then it is possible that the actuator has
seized - this can happen if the car has been through a lot of water
and/or the diff locks have hardly been used (most likely with your
average UK 80). If that is the case your only option is to remove the
actuator, strip it down and rebuild it which is whole different story;
-)
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
=======================================================================From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] diff actuators
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 07:50:05 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hey Julian
Thanks for that info, it does seem quite easy to check.the way you have
explained it.
Its quite horrible to even think of going out in the cold to look at things
to do with the cruiser.
I would have thought that when I start the engine up and put it in gear
while on the axle stands it would drive off , but it would seem to not be
the case.
How or what is involved in stripping or cleaning the actuators if I find one
that is not working. OK im only messing about starting the engine, not a
hope ill do that, RELAX..
cheers
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Rep of Ireland
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 08:25:11 +0000
From: "Gareth Jones" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] L- COOL TECHNICAL PAGES.
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Julian was telling me that we have had a lot of new members in the last couple of months.
For those seeking technical information about buying, servicing or upgrading your 80 series Landcruiser you would do well to view -
http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/80_series_technical.html
The site contains a wealth of useful information, just click on the topic that interests you.
If you are seeking 100 series info just go back to the main page, as below, and follow the links.
http://www.lcool.org/technical/technical.html
Hope this helps.
Regards Gareth Jones '97 1- HDFT
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 09:00:46 -0000
Subject: Re: [ELCO] diff actuators
From: Julian Voelcker <[Email address removed]>
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi John,
one
A lot. The key thing is to make sure that the screws on the face plates are
given a good daily dosing of WD40 for a week or more before removing.
I don't have time to do a full write up now, but will do when you find you
have
a problem with them.
I was wondering!
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 09:34:43 +0000
From: Roman <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
On 12/14/05, John Byrne <[Email address removed]> wrote:
as
Allright, let me make your day:
It took them seven hours at =A349.50.
Invoice total: =A3421.68.
Aren't we, the LC tinkerers and DYI-ers, depriving a vital industry of
their livelyhood and selfishly accumulating capital that should
circulate in the veins of the great British economy?
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 10:30:32 -0000
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
From: Julian Voelcker <[Email address removed]>
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi Roman,
Crikey, I could have come and picked it up, done the bearings and
delivered the car back to you in that time and for half the money!
And I bet they didn't torque the wheel nuts properly.
What was their excuse when you questioned them?
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
=======================================================================From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 11:25:21 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
WOW Roman
Ouch O where do you start with that. I know I have done mine with Cruiser
Mik and we did the whole axle CV replacing and with him as the professor
and me as the student asking all those annoying questions, it did not take
us that amount of time. Ok maybe I have it all wrong. and with my vast
experience of mechanics etc etc but what did they have to do. Are the
bearings not on the outside , or maybe they stripped down both axles
completly and repacked etc. I cant remember the process other than to know I
would attempt it again. So maybe someone could explain from the point with
the wheel is off.
Ill bet Roman you just feel full of the joys of Christmas with that bill.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
=======================================================================From: "Jon Wildsmith" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: RE: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 12:01:03 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
That really is a lot of time. Did they really just do the bearings or
was it a complete hub service i.e CV's out and repack, replace swivel
seals etc? If it was a full axle service I can believe their book
stating 3.5 hours a side but even then it's a bit slow.
Maybe they're not as expert as they would like you to think if it takes
that long...
Best regards,
Jon.
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
On Behalf Of Roman
Sent: 15 December 2005 09:35
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
On 12/14/05, John Byrne <[Email address removed]> wrote:
lot
job as
Allright, let me make your day:
It took them seven hours at =A349.50.
Invoice total: =A3421.68.
Aren't we, the LC tinkerers and DYI-ers, depriving a vital industry of
their livelyhood and selfishly accumulating capital that should
circulate in the veins of the great British economy?
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 12:30:10 +0000
From: Peter Browning <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] diff actuators
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi John
I need to rebuild my rear actuator I think. Biting my nails at the prospect!
You might find this link handy?
http://www.safari4x4.com.au/80scool/tech/factory_diff_locks.html
Pete
Julian Voelcker wrote:
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 12:39:46 +0000
From: Roman <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Julian,
I've sent them the content of this thread and await their reaction.
Perhaps they'll decide it was a bit of a ripoff, then give me a
discount for the next job which they will overchange by the same
amount.
At the end of the day, it's a way of life - because you get fleeced
you have to fleece your customers, who will fleece someone else. ...
and the last one will be fleeced by the banks
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:00:30 -0000
Subject: Re: [ELCO] diff actuators
From: Julian Voelcker <[Email address removed]>
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi Peter,
One of the biggest problems I have had working on them is trying to
remove the cover plate without shearing off the small screws - I think
the only thing you can do is to just make sure it is well and truly
soaked in WD40 and also make sure you have access to a drill press and
some very small stud extractors or taps in case it all goes horribly
wrong.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:00:30 -0000
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
From: Julian Voelcker <[Email address removed]>
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi Roman,
It would be interesting to hear their response. 7.5hrs would be
acceptable for an amateur doing a full knuckle strip down, clean off,
regrease and then re-assemble, but not a professional company just
changing the wheel bearings.
Were they just doing the front or did they do the rears as well?
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
=======================================================================From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] diff actuators
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:10:59 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi Julian
Thanks for that info, that leaves me out so I think if they dont work I may
have to leave it in to Toy cause if it can go wrong it will with me. Ah sure
it was nice to dream again about being able to do another job on the cruiser
but it was just not meant to be.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
SNIP
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:11:18 +0000
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
From: Jeremy Llewellyn-Jones <[Email address removed]>
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
This matches my time spent stripping down to the knuckle in Spain... 4 hours
to do the job but there was a lot of time chatting with the garage owner and
drinking coffee. It was nice to do the job leisurely but left in silence it
would have taken 3 to 3.5 hours.
Jeremy
On 15/12/05 14:00, "Julian Voelcker" <[Email address removed]> wrote:
Jeremy Llewellyn-Jones
Mob: 07831 458 793
--
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 15:00:28 -0000
Subject: Re: [ELCO] diff actuators
From: Julian Voelcker <[Email address removed]>
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi John,
may
sure
cruiser
If you are having problems with them you would be better off doing it
yourself,
it may not be true with your local dealer, but I know of others who have had
problems and the dealers have just sold them new actuators - they don't
service/repair these things.
Also you probably now know more about it than the dealers!
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
=======================================================================From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: [ELCO] Din Sockets
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:50:07 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi guys
I have been in toutch with a place called sail GB about the din sockets and
they have told me they cant help at all and futher more if I was to run a
small fridge, dvd player and camera detector from the one battery it has a
good chance of causing a fire in the vehicle. I was trying to enquire about
the three way din with an amp output of I think 16amps. Im getting a little
confused here about power drain versas fire versas amps etc.
I thought that all things in a one battery vehicle car are run off that one
battery and with out having the odd fire so whats the story on this.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT ireland
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 18:09:33 +0100
From: Denis Decoster <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Din Sockets
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
John Byrne a ?crit :
John,
If you use big enough cables for the required power, fuse the line
accordingly, and make strong clean connections nothing will burn. The
worst that can happen is draining the batteries out.
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 17:11:18 +0000
From: "Gareth Jones" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Din Sockets - FIRE FIRE - DONT PANIC.
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
John, relax.
I think sail GB are being somewhat over cautious, or to put it more bluntly they are covering their arses.
Plenty of people have fitted multiple DIN connectors to their 80's and plenty have people have also run the big Engel fridges with no problems.
I seem to remember an on line site showing how someone fitted DIN connectors in the rear of the vehicle.
Have a good look on the 80 technical pages - there is an article on fridges and on wire sizes, the DIN connectors article may be on the SLEE site or possibly on George's site. Try also the Birfield archives - experiment with different keywords.
If you find useful sites save them as favourites - it saves loads of time in the future.
You had some good advice this morning from our Gallic cousins regarding the electrical accesories box - the ideal place to start from. To do the job properly you will need the right cable and to do a tidy job the cable has to go under the carpet and be routed so it wont't chaff. Chances are the seats will have to come out.
I had to do this when running big speaker cables.
Regards Gareth.
=======================================================================From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: [ELCO] Battery
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 17:16:49 -0000
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi Guys
Would any one know what the amps rate for one of our batteries would be.
cheers
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 18:02:44 +0000
From: "Gareth Jones" <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Battery
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
John - as you may not have "standard" batteries fitted it would be best to look for the data sticker on the batteries this will give the capacity.
I expect Christopher or Clive have a cunning formula that shows how capacity reduces with age - a bit like my brain cells.
Regards Gareth.
=======================================================================Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 18:23:47 +0000
From: Roman <[Email address removed]>
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Front hub bearings job
Reply-To: [Email address removed]
Hi guys,
I just received an apology for being overcharged by four hours. That's
fair enough, hence the comapny will not be named and shamed.
---
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On 12/15/05, Jeremy Llewellyn-Jones <[Email address removed]> wrote:
ELCOInfo.html
