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Extreme cold vehicle prep...

Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
102
Anyone point me in a sensible direction re prepping my 80 for a drive into extreme cold, either Latvia or Czech Rep in the middle of winter...

I'm a hot weather boy but may have to head to frozen parts for work.

Thanks

Jeremy
 
Person to speak to would be Sarah off tlocuk or difflock - she took her cruiser 'round Alaska and Northern Canada in the dead of winter :music-rockon:
 
Cheers

Can't seem to log on to tlocuk at the moment - must have forgotten my password...is Sarah on this forum...?

Jeremy
 
Try speaking to Bob at 4x4 ventures - 07957 656168 or Email at [email protected].
His website appears to be under reconstruction but I've spoken to him before about going up to the Arctic Circle and he has loads of experience...
 
For the sort of temps you will see in eastern Europe you only need to make sure that your batteries are in OK condition and if you have glow plugs make sure that they work. All UK 80s have cold weather spec so they do not differ at all in terms of cold weather equipment from the ones on sale in say Siberia.

Tyres may be more of an issue, make sure that you have decent tyres with the 'Mountain Snowflake' symbol. Most all terrain tyres have them.

Run screen wash at 100% concentration (no water) if you mix your own and don't trust screen wash sold in this country that says it good for -20 deg c. best to get some on the continent premixed. (remember to take wind chill into account so always get the lowest rated one when on the continent)

I have been travelling to Poland by car during winter for many years and the only issues we have had are listed above. My parents took my 80 last winter and it was fine in -15 deg c with no preparation whatsoever (apart from screen wash)
 
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Thanks all. My only big question was whether to run on synthetic oils, particularly in diffs and transfer box etc.

80s rarely overheat even in the heat of the desert unless something is up so as well as the suggestions above i'll blank off the rad etc

Cheers

Jeremy
 
There is a rad cover on 80s that you can pull over the rad (looks like roller blinds) for use in very cold weather ;)
 
As far as oils, no point in changing just for a trip to eastern Europe in the winter, the diesel out there will freeze before you run into viscous oil issues therefore not worth upgrading the oil IMO
 
make sure your batteries are in good nick- if they are 4-5 years old it might be a good idea to get them changed- cold, old batteries can be very very weak and you run the risk of not starting the engine.

Make sure your coolant is also in good nick and mixed to the right proportions- if you don't know what its like, at least get it tested with a hydrometer.

realistically you're only likely to run into serious problems if your car hasn't been well serviced and kept in good condition. Oh if you run a fully mineral 20w50 as an engine oil you might find its a bit heavy and swapping for a 5w40 or 10w40 synthetic would be better- considering the price difference from somewhere like opie oils, filling up with a fully synt 10w40 diesel oil is good practice either way.
 
Why would you want to blank the rad? The thermostat will just close when the temp drops. I thought the rad cover was for wading through water.

I had my 120 in Switzerland at -25 and other than noisy when started, it was fine. New batteries and as Rob said, screen wash from UK turns to ice. Bough some stuff in France and it worked a treat. My 5L of Halfrauds came back with me.
 
I thought the design specs for any landcruiser were for them to be able to operate from minus -30 to +50 without any modifications?
 
Tommo&Claire said:
I thought the design specs for any landcruiser were for them to be able to operate from minus -30 to +50 without any modifications?
Even a small French diesel will work without any issues down to -20 without and mods these days if the above things are attended to so that's Im not too concerned about driving to Poland during winter in any car as long as the few things I mentioned are attended to.

Crispin, the 80 is overcooled and in very cold temps the viscous fan will draw air cold air over the engine and therefore will operate at a lower temp than it should.
 
Crispin said:
Why would you want to blank the rad? The thermostat will just close when the temp drops. I thought the rad cover was for wading through water.

As I mentioned in an an earlier post, 80s rarely overheat unless there's a fault - Rob backs this up with his comment the truck is overcooled and hence the need to prevent cold air coming through the front. I've also got an aux air cooler for my a/t mounted just in front of the rad as my car (and me) traditionally go to hot places - I spent my first 20 years in east africa so tend to head south when at the wheel.

Batteries are my main concern - I've got 2 Optima red tops but they've been in the truck since 2005. I run BFG a/ts which are in good nick but depending on where we end up, I may just have to add chains to my shortish shopping list.

Jeremy
 
I spent quite a few years working in Russia, including the winters so have done a lot of cold miles. Never really done much to adapt vehicles but here is a couple of things we used to do:
1. As said before, get your screen wash on the continent, ours is rubbish. If it is really cold we just used neat vodka :thumbup:
2. Clean out all the autumn debris (leaves and stuff) from the nooks and crannies as they can get into the heater.
3. New coolant and a flush, maybe even remove rad and clean. Inspect hoses. I have always made small tarp for in front of grill as this also keeps the snow out of the rad as it can melt and refreeze overnight on the rad fins.
4. Loosen, grease and readjust anything you may need to adjust when things get cold (engine belts, hand brake etc) to save your knuckles
5. Sort any lights with moisture in.
6. Grease door locks and door rubbers with silicon. Including bonnet
7. Check spare wheel and run a higher pressure in it as this will drop in the cold.
8. If you have alloys, take them off and grease flanges to make sure they are not stuck on.
9. Make sure AC drains are clear
10. Spare wiper blades
11. Check batteries and charge them, maybe even insulate them with the stuff that roll mats are made of, i would certainly put something under them if they sit in a metal carrier.

This is just a normal list we used to do, there is loads more :cool:
 
Paul said:
1. As said before, get your screen wash on the continent, ours is rubbish. If it is really cold we just used neat vodka :thumbup:
I thought you were supposed to add ice to the vodka not the other way round :lol: This would be a real dilema for BlackWidow, drive blind or drink the vodka the night before :lol: only kidding Steve :mrgreen:
 
used to get interest from the plod when we were stopped at checkpoints :lol:
 
Have frequently travelled all round Eastern Europe, mostly Czech in the winter time. -10 is the norm but have seen -25 a good few times. It's nothing most cars can't cope with, an LC no problem.

However do make sure of the following:
Good batteries
Good/new water hoses in the engine bay
New thermostat
Decent spec antifreeze & checked its correct too
Euro spec washer fluid though even that wont work at -25deg !!
Winter spec tyres as they dont de-ice the back roads - which makes it great fun! Most m/t tyres are as hard as nails at those temps which wont work on ice at all, where proper winter tyres do.

The 80 is quite good in cold weather, with the rad blind down for anything but motorway journeys they stay warm easy enough.
 
I think you'll be alright, it isn't that cold.

I went to Sweden/Norway/Finland a few years ago and it was minus 40*c during the day and god knows what during the night. The only thing I would do if I was going to do it again would be to either wrap the battery under the bonnet or take it off and inside with me at night as the poor thing did struggle first thing in the mornings. Also the wiper motor slowed right down.

Great trip though..
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