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Fitting a 2" suspension lift

malteser

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Sep 25, 2014
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malta
Hello guys,

I've just bought an Ironman 2" lift kit for my LJ79 and am planning on fitting it in the next couple of days.

It seems they're pretty straight forward to install.. provided the axles articulate enough for the springs to get in without compressors :think: Will they ?

Please correct me if my plan is wrong;
1. Jack up vehicle from axles as high as possible and rest on stands (any particular suggested resting points?.. was thinking arms bush ends maybe?).
2. Undo shock absorber nuts with axle still on jack (possibly also undoing arb & panhard rod ?).
3. Lower axle to remove shockers and springs.
4. Put in new items in reverse procedure.
 
Only thing I'm still concerned of is where and on what am I going to rest my van on... Any suggestions please ?
 
Erm, don't get me wrong but if you're worrying about where to jack a truck off, are you sure you should be taking this on...

Jack the chassis up so the axles drop down is what I did on Muxley my 80. Didn't need any spring compressors as everything dropped nicely for a 4" spring lift.

Some members didnt like the way I supported my beast but it all ended up ok...

Try the search system. I'll see if I can find my thread :)
 
Springs on mine where a right game to fit, the axles would not just drop far enough under there own weight.

i used spring compressors to get the old out, the new which where massive compared to the old so it was a right game jack the axle down compress the spring struggle some and ram them in with a big lever.

I read up a couple of write up which just said jack it up and swap them over - i should have followed my gut instinct and disconnected the brake hose and loosened off the suspension arms etc.

PS I'm not a occasional DIY have a go person - I've worked on things of all shapes and sizes ever since I could pick up the tools as a hobby and a day job.
 
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Did you not disconnect the panard rods? If you do the axle just drops down.. loads of room to get the springs in..:think:
 
@ Gav Peter ... pretty confident I can do it myself, have done much more then just changing some suspension. Thing is this is my first ever truck.. so I'd rather ask then rest it on somewhere which is unsafe or which can give me trouble during work. For instance, a mechanic friend of mine told me they usually jack them from their arms ends (chassis side) just below the bush. I'm worried if I do so, the axle may not go down enough due to the arms not rotating fully. Any further back, and I'm worried their's too much overhanging weight.
 
I needed spring compressors and pry bars.....
 
I needed spring compressors and pry bars.....

Mine was +2" and with all arms and rods connected, they went in fine on one side because the axle can pivot more with none in the other side. Once in, the other side needed spring compressors. Always worth having some in the toolkit just in case, saves on cursing and delays :icon-biggrin:
 
I've never needed spring compressors on a live axle 4wd and cant understand how/why you ever would! :?

1. Position the trolley jack under the center of the diff and raise the vehicle till the tyres are off the ground.

2. Position suitable stands underneath the chassis and remove the wheels on that axle.

3. Undo the shock absorbers.

4. Slowly lower the trolley jack down.

5. Pull the old springs out one side at a time. To remove the first one you may need to push down on the hub slightly with your foot. The other side will be easier with the other spring already removed.

6. Fit the new springs in place and then raise the trolley jack back up.

7. Re-connect the shock absorbers, or fit new ones.

8. Re-fit the wheels.

9. Raise the vehicle further until the chassis is off the stands, remove stands and lower vehicle back down.

10. Tighten the wheel nuts fully.

If you've got access to a 2 post hoist/lift you can sometimes do it without even removing the wheels! I regularly do at work, for me to change the rear coil springs on a Suzuki is a 10 minute job! :icon-biggrin:
 
Just didnt go that easy with the 78 Ben, at one point had everything hanging down at the back, still needed compressors and pry bars to get the springs out. Ended up putting a scissor jack in there to push the axle far enough.

It seemed that on each axle one of the springs was more of a problem, but it was opposing corners on each axle.

Also - dont I recall that the handbrake cable gets in the way?

Pete
 
Finally got around fitting my suspension.. both front and rear springs got out without compressors, that is after undoing arb & panhard rod on front and flexy brake hose on rear. But new springs needed compressors to get in, just a little compress on the front and a little more on the back.

This is how it looks now :icon-biggrin:

20150208_160642.jpg
 
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@ Jeepmadmike ... what truck is it ?

Mine is a KZJ71

i was sure I had the wrong springs TBH I still think the rears are wrong.... But the ironman numbers where correct - they seem to long(rides nose down) and are to hard for my liking unless it's loaded to the gunwales.

Nice looking 79 you have there
 
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Hi again guys..

So, with the lift kit I had also bought castor correction bushes because I was told they are needed. But I haven't felt any drastic change in the steering (if not nothing). Should I change them ?
 
Why wouldn't you if they were included in the kit ? The truck may feel fine but i think in my limited understanding the caster correction is all about reducing unnecessary wear caused by the other alterations . My truck has ifs so i don't know much about solid axles but from what i've read on here not fitting the CCB will only have you doing far more expensive repairs sooner rather than later .
 
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