Julian T
Well-Known Member
I see I am not alone in thinking that.
That it is, all thanks to EU legislation and requirements.
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Ford DPF pain in the a**s
- Thread starter Crispin
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I see I am not alone in thinking that.
That it is, all thanks to EU legislation and requirements.
The same EU legislation and requirements set by Eurocrats with no knowledge of what is feasible in the real world outside the EU gravy train (which incidentally is very green as it runs on hot air!) thus forcing manufacturers to 'get round' things.
Lynn just read about the EU granting Germany's manufacturers special dispensation to be able to emit twice the allowed emissions while stating that it will fine the UK government (the UK being a country full of people that like to buy German cars) for having higher particulate levels.
You couldn't make it up!!
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Guess that new code in the VW engine management system did not go as well as they hoped....
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I will never be buying another modern diesel car. My golf was total trouble from day 1. Kept stalling then they remapped it at VW but not much better. Engine cooling fan stuck on. Then it would cut out an be difficult to start. VW told me there was swarf in the filter so I took it home, took filter out and no swarf. By this time it would not run hardly at all. Then they said it needed £5000 on new pump etc but they were not quite sure.....oh yes and the DPF was 80% full and it would soon be another £900. 3.5 years old with only 19,000 on it.
Dpf is only the tip of the iceburg. There are catalysts with short life, egr's and very high pressure pumps which don't last many years. And it's going to get worse with all this publicity about cancer causing particulates. Also who knows if the MOT tests in future will be picking up modified filters as more soot does come out. They just don't measure it that closely yet.
Dpf is only the tip of the iceburg. There are catalysts with short life, egr's and very high pressure pumps which don't last many years. And it's going to get worse with all this publicity about cancer causing particulates. Also who knows if the MOT tests in future will be picking up modified filters as more soot does come out. They just don't measure it that closely yet.
Working on one this week.....and last week...and... The most common reason for DPF failure is short runs, the ECU programme needs to have certain parameters met before it can regenerate. Before you can force regeneration of the DPF the ECU must have certain things satisfied. Glow plugs as per Gary's input, the actual filter case must have a low resistance reading as there are pressure differential sensors inside. There must be a clean EGR valve, carb cleaner after you have spent ages getting to the damn thing! NO air leaks post turbo whatsoever. If too many forced regenerations are aborted by the ECU, one of the above has not been sorted, then the ECU will lock you out from the regen process, you think it is regenerating but it is not, and you get that 'am I about to bend over and take one feeling'.
With the engine off, pull off the sensor plug to the air mass sensor, start the engine, hold at around 2000 rpm, check engine light (orange) on (separate from systems management fault light RED). Switch off, plug sensor back in. ECU regen block is now cleared, restart, clear OBD code and THEN run the regen cycle.
If you are mechanically sympathetic, get ear plugs, if you like clean washing then take it off the line.
regards
Dave
With the engine off, pull off the sensor plug to the air mass sensor, start the engine, hold at around 2000 rpm, check engine light (orange) on (separate from systems management fault light RED). Switch off, plug sensor back in. ECU regen block is now cleared, restart, clear OBD code and THEN run the regen cycle.
If you are mechanically sympathetic, get ear plugs, if you like clean washing then take it off the line.
regards
Dave
Just seen your post Frank, 'Opacity' is being tested here in Spain with six months, this will detect non functioning (read missing) DPF's. They can be cleaned, a gallon of carb cleaner and a jet wash, seriously messy as mentioned above.
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
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Thanks Dave - is that specific to the Ford? I clear the fault for him by pulling the MAF plug, starting engine, engine off plug on, ignition on, clear fault with reader. But obviously it's back soon after.
I should include your step and take it for a long run to restart the regen stuff?
Yes mate, is the 'Engine systems fault' RED to the right of digital readout light on or just the OBD light? This is a regular problem with the Focus, also lift the rear seat behind the driver, there is a plug there, check to see if it has not come apart and all wires are ok. If the DPF is not coming clean despite repeated regens then it will need to be cleaned/removed/replaced, you (or your mates) choice.
I cannot off the top of my head remember what the ohms reading from the DPF should be, my software (Delphi) reads it and dismisses it if it is within spec, but you will find it on one of the forums. If outside spec you might as well call it a day as it will never reset without taking some more physical action.
regards
Dave
I cannot off the top of my head remember what the ohms reading from the DPF should be, my software (Delphi) reads it and dismisses it if it is within spec, but you will find it on one of the forums. If outside spec you might as well call it a day as it will never reset without taking some more physical action.
regards
Dave
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My friend has a Merc Specialist garage. They jet wash theirs and sell them back as reconditioned. Fair enough. A jet washed original is probably better than a new cheap copy ?
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Dave ! "OPACITY". FFS don't learn MOT here that word. They love bollocks. lol.
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So today my mate came round so we could have a look at the DPF issue. We followed Dave's advice but saw no smoke, no nothing. it just happily sat there and revved. I did clear the fault though but had done this before (with the MAF wire-off thing)
I took the cover off the engine and noticed some spray on the sound deadening material which was above the compressor outlet. The outlet itself was a bit wet. "Ah!" thought I and proceeded to take it apart. it is a simple push-fit plastic pipe with an o-ring into the compressor. Simple enough to get out.
He mentioned that 6 months ago, for the same fault, they changed the turbo.
On inspection the o-ring looked ok, very wet on both sides, and he seats on each side looked fine too. Nothing odd. So I cleaned it all up and started putting it back together. "Maybe a clean and a reseat will make it better" I lied to myself. Just as I was putting it back I noticed a hairline crack running perpendicular to the o-ring, leading from the pressure side to "outside". It really was small but enough to let spray out up onto the sound deadening material.
As a quick-fix I mashed some liquid gasket into the and around the crack and reassembled everything. We took it for a 30-35 mile run up the A1 keeping the engine at 2500-3000rpm. No plumes of smoke or anything different, it just ran. At one point though, say 10-15 minutes into the journey, it car did drop and surge once or twice. Dom swears he did not change the accelerator position. @Dave2000 Could this be the regen starting?
The good news is that prior to this fix the light would come on in a few minutes. The whole time we'd been driving it had stayed off.
Could it have been that the whole time this tiny crack and tiny leak (how sensitive is an ECU to leaks like this?) would have been the reason for the DPF faults?
I took the cover off the engine and noticed some spray on the sound deadening material which was above the compressor outlet. The outlet itself was a bit wet. "Ah!" thought I and proceeded to take it apart. it is a simple push-fit plastic pipe with an o-ring into the compressor. Simple enough to get out.
He mentioned that 6 months ago, for the same fault, they changed the turbo.
On inspection the o-ring looked ok, very wet on both sides, and he seats on each side looked fine too. Nothing odd. So I cleaned it all up and started putting it back together. "Maybe a clean and a reseat will make it better" I lied to myself. Just as I was putting it back I noticed a hairline crack running perpendicular to the o-ring, leading from the pressure side to "outside". It really was small but enough to let spray out up onto the sound deadening material.
As a quick-fix I mashed some liquid gasket into the and around the crack and reassembled everything. We took it for a 30-35 mile run up the A1 keeping the engine at 2500-3000rpm. No plumes of smoke or anything different, it just ran. At one point though, say 10-15 minutes into the journey, it car did drop and surge once or twice. Dom swears he did not change the accelerator position. @Dave2000 Could this be the regen starting?
The good news is that prior to this fix the light would come on in a few minutes. The whole time we'd been driving it had stayed off.
Could it have been that the whole time this tiny crack and tiny leak (how sensitive is an ECU to leaks like this?) would have been the reason for the DPF faults?
Very possible Crispin. ANY leaks are detectable from the MAF through to the manifold/head junction. The regen at speed is normally felt as a slight misfire around 20 minutes into a journey, there has to be certain parameters met though, engine 65 C plus, rpm above 2,000 for X amount of time, no pressure leaks, all four glow plugs within X resistance. Someone following the car at regen time will invariably see a puff of white to grey smoke, this is the 'Eolys' oil allowing a temperature increase in the DPF, this ignite the particles and they burn off as ash.
Fingers crossed for you.
regards
Dave
Fingers crossed for you.
regards
Dave
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Thanks Dave,
The surge / dip in power might have been it then? Will wait and see in the coming days.
Here's hoping.
One thing I did notice was a leak around one of the injectors. It was coming out of the top somewhere and not where the fuel pipe comes into the injector. Next on the list to fix
Thanks for the help
The surge / dip in power might have been it then? Will wait and see in the coming days.
Here's hoping.
One thing I did notice was a leak around one of the injectors. It was coming out of the top somewhere and not where the fuel pipe comes into the injector. Next on the list to fix
Thanks for the help
The seal at the injector has failed, do not leave it too long and do all four. If left too long the carbon from the combustion process cooks with the oil and it becomes a nightmare to pull them out, ultimately the injector will crack when 'levering' it out and need to be replaced. Also I have used a long crochet hook to pull the copper seals out, but it can be tedious, I keep saying I am going to get the proper tool but never got around to it.
Not wanting to add to your work load but while in there....are the glow plugs all good?
regards
Dave
Not wanting to add to your work load but while in there....are the glow plugs all good?
regards
Dave
Yep that the way, use the tip where the small nut is to the head as ground, that sounds obvious but there is an area on the glow plug that reads OC despite it not being the case. They look a PITA to replace, but not too difficult once you remove the windscreen wipers and the plastic and metal channelling, if they are tight when trying to undo then stop right there. Make a decision as to whether to go on and risk a breakage, pack up and 'leave well alone' or the slowly slowly WD40, loosen tighten for an hour for each plug. If one does break, then use a long flexible drill (IIRC 4mm followed by 6mm) bit with small battery drill and drill it out with the engine running, safety glasses in place, as the speed the 'bits' come out will be dangerous to your eyes.
I only offer the above so you can be prepared with the right tools, you just know if you are not fully prepared then something is bound go wrong!
regards
Dave
