FW Veg Oil and Engine problems

G

Guest

Guest
The following message is from Ian Pearson who is having problems posting to the list
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540362
[Email address removed]
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] <[Email address removed]>
Sent: 23 March 2008 16:25
Hi All,
I thought I=E2=80=99d share my experience with you as it may save some of you who run on veg oil some money!
I converted my 80 series about 2 years ago to run on veg oil. I bought a kit from DieselVeg, and fitted an OEM auxiliary tank and dual filler. I also adapted the kit by fitting a second fuel filter, and having the return line switch between tanks instead of it looping back to the pump ala DieselVeg.
=C2=A0
I initially ran on new veg oil, and then switched to used oil that I filter to 1 micron. I=E2=80=99ve had a few problems. The fuel pump started leaking, and all the seals were replaced. I=E2=80=99ve had diesel bug twice, and I suspect that the pump is leaking again, but I=E2=80=99ve yet to find the leak! Generally I=E2=80=99ve been very pleased with the conversion, and apart from the problems with filtering the oil in winter it all works well. The latest batch of oil I have seems to have a little water held in suspension, and I=E2=80=99m seriously thinking of going down the centrifuge route to clean the oil.
As advised by DieselVeg, I change the oil on a regular basis, to avoid any potential problems with Polymerisation. This is generally about every 3 months (3500 miles).
I recently had 4 months off work, and didn=E2=80=99t do many long distance miles. I returned to work recently, and on my way home ( 200 mile round trip) I felt that the car was a little sluggish when overtaking, but I=E2=80=99d been working all night, was not thinking straight, and put it down to the oil not being as clean as I=E2=80=99d like.
The next day, I was planning an ATF and engine oil change, and took the car for a drive to warm the oil. About 1 minute down the road, I thought the engine was a little clattery. I pulled over, wound the window down, and was greeted by a range of intermittent noises not pleasing to the ear. I immediately turned back home, and noticing that I had no oil pressure, shut the engine down. I pulled out the dipstick which was bone dry. I walked home and returned with some oil. The oil filler cap had thick jelly deposits and the warning bells were now at klaxon level. The car started instantly with full oil pressure and I drove home.
So far=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6.
I=E2=80=99ve flushed the engine twice.
I removed the rocker cover, and cleaned the jelly like polymerised oil from all the nooks and crannies. The cam shaft was undamaged.
The turbo was sent off to Turbo Technics and the diagnosis was oil starvation damage. Part of the casting was cracked (age related), and I=E2=80=99ve bought a reconditioned unit.
I dropped the sump, and recovered about a litre of polymerised jelly from the sump. I=E2=80=99ve cleaned as much muck out as I can from below, and have removed all six big end bearings. All were fine apart from number 4 (from front) which was scored and has left a slight ridge on the journal. This should polish off. I had replaced the bearings about six months ago.
I=E2=80=99ve done a compression test. The manual states this must be done when the engine is hot, so it=E2=80=99s difficult to relate the test to their figures. All showed signs of wear, number one being the worst in terms of initial pressure readings. The manual recommends adding a small amount of oil to the cylinder, and a further test. I don=E2=80=99t have the figures with me, but some showed an increase of about 80 psi, one increased by about 280 psi.
I=E2=80=99m no mechanic, but having spoken to the 4X4 garage who do my MOT=E2=80=99s, and lent me the compression tester, it is a strong possibility that while I was off sick, the engine was not getting up to temp before I switched over to veg oil. The rings have either gummed up, or are worn enough for the higher viscosity veg oil to enter the sump. It has also been suggested by Julian and the garage that over fuelling could be a problem. This=C2=A0is backed up by the black smoke on acceleration. I am going to take the head off and replace the rings. I will also send of the injectors for a service. Any recommendations?
I had hoped to be able to take off the ladder frame that holds the main bearings in place to inspect the bearings for damage. I don=E2=80=99t think I can remove the frame with the engine in situ, and so my dilemma now is whether to remove the engine in order to have a look at the main bearings, or do as both the 4X4 garage and my mechanic neighbour have said, and leave them alone. Their rational is as follows:
a)=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 The engine was designed for operation in parts of the world where mechanical abuse is likely to be high.
b)=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 The oil feed to the main bearings is greater than the big ends, and seeing as the cam, and 5 out of six bearings are okay, the chances of the main bearings being damaged are small.
=C2=A0
Any advice from people who have physically changed their own main bearings would be much appreciated.
I=E2=80=99m normally fairly diligent at checking the oil, etc but this time I didn=E2=80=99t. If I=E2=80=99d pulled the dipstick and checked the oil, none of this would=E2=80=99ve happened. I could kick myself.
So that=E2=80=99s my story so far. I hope that this will be of use to someone, and prevent a similar occurrence.
=C2=A0Regards, Ian.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi,
please unsubscribe me for this list
thanks
Richard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Julian A.R. Voelcker" <[Email address removed]>
To: "ELCO Mailing List" <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 9:56 PM
Subject: [ELCO] FW: Veg Oil and Engine problems
The following message is from Ian Pearson who is having problems posting to
the list
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540362
[Email address removed]
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] <[Email address removed]>
Sent: 23 March 2008 16:25
Hi All,
I thought I’d share my experience with you as it may save some of you who
run on veg oil some money!
I converted my 80 series about 2 years ago to run on veg oil. I bought a kit
from DieselVeg, and fitted an OEM auxiliary tank and dual filler. I also
adapted the kit by fitting a second fuel filter, and having the return line
switch between tanks instead of it looping back to the pump ala DieselVeg.
I initially ran on new veg oil, and then switched to used oil that I filter
to 1 micron. I’ve had a few problems. The fuel pump started leaking, and all
the seals were replaced. I’ve had diesel bug twice, and I suspect that the
pump is leaking again, but I’ve yet to find the leak! Generally I’ve been
very pleased with the conversion, and apart from the problems with filtering
the oil in winter it all works well. The latest batch of oil I have seems to
have a little water held in suspension, and I’m seriously thinking of going
down the centrifuge route to clean the oil.
As advised by DieselVeg, I change the oil on a regular basis, to avoid any
potential problems with Polymerisation. This is generally about every 3
months (3500 miles).
I recently had 4 months off work, and didn’t do many long distance miles. I
returned to work recently, and on my way home ( 200 mile round trip) I felt
that the car was a little sluggish when overtaking, but I’d been working all
night, was not thinking straight, and put it down to the oil not being as
clean as I’d like.
The next day, I was planning an ATF and engine oil change, and took the car
for a drive to warm the oil. About 1 minute down the road, I thought the
engine was a little clattery. I pulled over, wound the window down, and was
greeted by a range of intermittent noises not pleasing to the ear. I
immediately turned back home, and noticing that I had no oil pressure, shut
the engine down. I pulled out the dipstick which was bone dry. I walked home
and returned with some oil. The oil filler cap had thick jelly deposits and
the warning bells were now at klaxon level. The car started instantly with
full oil pressure and I drove home.
So far…………………….
I’ve flushed the engine twice.
I removed the rocker cover, and cleaned the jelly like polymerised oil from
all the nooks and crannies. The cam shaft was undamaged.
The turbo was sent off to Turbo Technics and the diagnosis was oil
starvation damage. Part of the casting was cracked (age related), and I’ve
bought a reconditioned unit.
I dropped the sump, and recovered about a litre of polymerised jelly from
the sump. I’ve cleaned as much muck out as I can from below, and have
removed all six big end bearings. All were fine apart from number 4 (from
front) which was scored and has left a slight ridge on the journal. This
should polish off. I had replaced the bearings about six months ago.
I’ve done a compression test. The manual states this must be done when the
engine is hot, so it’s difficult to relate the test to their figures. All
showed signs of wear, number one being the worst in terms of initial
pressure readings. The manual recommends adding a small amount of oil to the
cylinder, and a further test. I don’t have the figures with me, but some
showed an increase of about 80 psi, one increased by about 280 psi.
I’m no mechanic, but having spoken to the 4X4 garage who do my MOT’s, and
lent me the compression tester, it is a strong possibility that while I was
off sick, the engine was not getting up to temp before I switched over to
veg oil. The rings have either gummed up, or are worn enough for the higher
viscosity veg oil to enter the sump. It has also been suggested by Julian
and the garage that over fuelling could be a problem. This is backed up by
the black smoke on acceleration. I am going to take the head off and replace
the rings. I will also send of the injectors for a service. Any
recommendations?
I had hoped to be able to take off the ladder frame that holds the main
bearings in place to inspect the bearings for damage. I don’t think I can
remove the frame with the engine in situ, and so my dilemma now is whether
to remove the engine in order to have a look at the main bearings, or do as
both the 4X4 garage and my mechanic neighbour have said, and leave them
alone. Their rational is as follows:
a) The engine was designed for operation in parts of the world where
mechanical abuse is likely to be high.
b) The oil feed to the main bearings is greater than the big ends, and
seeing as the cam, and 5 out of six bearings are okay, the chances of the
main bearings being damaged are small.
Any advice from people who have physically changed their own main bearings
would be much appreciated.
I’m normally fairly diligent at checking the oil, etc but this time I didn’t.
If I’d pulled the dipstick and checked the oil, none of this would’ve
happened. I could kick myself.
So that’s my story so far. I hope that this will be of use to someone, and
prevent a similar occurrence.
Regards, Ian.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hello the guys well this do remind me of somethings one of my buddy
did have. He have all new injecteurs install 1 year ago. And he run
69% colza oil when the wether is warm. Well some year later he have to
remove the cylindre head for check pistons and well the pistons is OK
but hello these new injecteurs are all deposited with stuff on them!
So may be we should all be like Julien and make our biofuel be
converted first to before burning it in our moteurs.
2008/3/23, Julian A.R. Voelcker <[Email address removed]>:
to the list
run on veg oil some money!
kit from DieselVeg, and fitted an OEM auxiliary tank and dual filler. I also adapted the kit by fitting a second fuel filter, and having the return line switch between tanks instead of it looping back to the pump ala DieselVeg.
er to 1 micron. I've had a few problems. The fuel pump started leaking, and all the seals were replaced. I've had diesel bug twice, and I suspect that the pump is leaking again, but I've yet to find the leak! Generally I've been very pleased with the conversion, and apart from the problems with filtering the oil in winter it all works well. The latest batch of oil I have seems to have a little water held in suspension, and I'm seriously thinking of going down the centrifuge route to clean the oil.
y potential problems with Polymerisation. This is generally about every 3 months (3500 miles).
I returned to work recently, and on my way home ( 200 mile round trip) I felt that the car was a little sluggish when overtaking, but I'd been working all night, was not thinking straight, and put it down to the oil not being as clean as I'd like.
ar for a drive to warm the oil. About 1 minute down the road, I thought the engine was a little clattery. I pulled over, wound the window down, and was greeted by a range of intermittent noises not pleasing to the ear. I immediately turned back home, and noticing that I had no oil pressure, shut the engine down. I pulled out the dipstick which was bone dry. I walked home and returned with some oil. The oil filler cap had thick jelly deposits and the warning bells were now at klaxon level. The car started instantly with full oil pressure and I drove home.
om all the nooks and crannies. The cam shaft was undamaged.
tion damage. Part of the casting was cracked (age related), and I've bought a reconditioned unit.
the sump. I've cleaned as much muck out as I can from below, and have removed all six big end bearings. All were fine apart from number 4 (from front) which was scored and has left a slight ridge on the journal. This should polish off. I had replaced the bearings about six months ago.
e engine is hot, so it's difficult to relate the test to their figures. All showed signs of wear, number one being the worst in terms of initial pressure readings. The manual recommends adding a small amount of oil to the cylinder, and a further test. I don't have the figures with me, but some showed an increase of about 80 psi, one increased by about 280 psi.
lent me the compression tester, it is a strong possibility that while I was off sick, the engine was not getting up to temp before I switched over to veg oil. The rings have either gummed up, or are worn enough for the higher viscosity veg oil to enter the sump. It has also been suggested by Julian and the garage that over fuelling could be a problem. This is backed up by the black smoke on acceleration. I am going to take the head off and replace the rings. I will also send of the injectors for a service. Any recommendations?
earings in place to inspect the bearings for damage. I don't think I can remove the frame with the engine in situ, and so my dilemma now is whether to remove the engine in order to have a look at the main bearings, or do as both the 4X4 garage and my mechanic neighbour have said, and leave them alone. Their rational is as follows:
mechanical abuse is likely to be high.
nd seeing as the cam, and 5 out of six bearings are okay, the chances of the main bearings being damaged are small.
s would be much appreciated.
n't. If I'd pulled the dipstick and checked the oil, none of this would've happened. I could kick myself.
d prevent a similar occurrence.
 
G

Guest

Guest
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mail here is the link, http://www.landcruisers.info/lists/
TTFN
Chas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich & Sare" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: [ELCO] FW: Veg Oil and Engine problems
 
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