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HDK CV's?

Am I right in saying the Nitro and RCV will wear quicker due to them being of a harder material? Has anyone tried the terrain tamer CVs

High carbon steel is hard, low is not. Hardness is like a shell on the outside, it has depth. Chromium increases the depth of hardness penetration as well as resistance to corrosion. Hardness is what you want, it resists wear to the limit of the depth of hardness. You also want 'tough' as that resists deformation, e.g. Twisting. The trick is to have a good mix of both. It's all about materials science and unfortunately, good materials are not cheap.
 
Agreed Chris, after trying to jump through the Spanish homogolado 'hoops' to get slightly larger tyres I give up and stayed with stock. It can be done but the insurance company made me feel so uneasy about it I backed off. So, I will not be overloading the CV's.

regards

Dave
 
Retro hardening will almost defo not work. The steel has to be of a good known composition and should have been hardened during manufacture. Even if the unhardened part is of suitable composition the hardener man will not know what he is dealing with.

IMO grease nipples will not help. Easier just to put too much grease in.

Never had any front axle trouble at all with the Range Rover I built. I used a very old looking axle off a 1973 model and by 1986 I had added another 250K miles.
 
Imo dave unless the moly grease is badly contaminated with diff oil it should pretty much stay in the cv joint, ifs cars with cv boots are packed and left alone unless the boot splits. Dont forget about the grease top up point on top of the knuckle housing.
 
Understand all of the above, many thanks, just wanted to get other peoples thoughts/experiences. A good point CG about the grease staying in there, I have witnessed this with mine when the new grease did not move out the old grease, the two different colours proved the original grease stayed for the most part inside the CV. The thing about the CV on a 'normal' car is the gaiter acts as a 'bellow' so the grease tends to get moved about, given the most CV's I fit in my normal day are always provided with 'X' amount of grease, normally two tubes. One easily fills the CV, the second gets pumped into the gaiter, so I guess some exchange takes place.

I think given my stock wheel sizes, and that I no longer do anything competition orientated I may just replace with stock or the equivalent.

Thanks for the input thus far.

regards

Dave
 
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I run the RCV shafts and CV's as well - will never look back - I went through most "budget" options up to biting the bullet and importing - IIRC it was around £750 three years ago but some of the best money I have spent.

The RCV's are greasbale now as well.

I had to do a strip down recently for the R&P change - I inspected the CV's closely and no obvious signs of wear, perhaps they felt a little loose compared to new is all - thats after 9,000 road miles and probably 100 or so play days and trials.
 
Just catching up with posts after site issues, sorry for the delay. Reading your post Roger, it would appear that RCV have a good reputation. I find it interesting that they too have gone for the gun drilling to make theirs greaseable as well.

I can say for a fact that the grease in the 80's does not move in and out of the joint during use, as per CG's post, but I am of the opinion that replacing the grease with new may help with longevity, perhaps this is the answer to having strong joints along with minimum wear?

Thanks all for your thoughts.

regards

Dave
 
I see Amaya Trading are now offering non oem parts as well and they have hdk cvs listed for a 105, have not looked for the 80 but may be worth a try at only £42 a cv for hdk for the 105 i cant see the 80 being much more and at that price its worth ordering a set just as a back up
 
Interesting thread as I was just about to ask the same question - got a CV just picking up and clunking under full lock with power applied. Was thinking of using Milner (as used a lot of their stuff over the years and not had a problem)... truck is used on load mostly and running 285s... big difference between £55 for HDK and £350 odd for OE... ponders.... anyone else had that grinding problem?? One off manufacturing issue?
 
AFAIK, unless they explode, most CVs wear and the full lock knock is the first signs.

Sadly, I heard it the other day from my LHS, reversing on full lock. Mine were Nitro Gear and they've been in for 3 years and as I discovered from the records, less than 100k km. :cry:
 
TBH Clive I've got no reason to think aren't original in my truck (at nearly 200,000 miles)... ;-)
 
TBH Clive I've got no reason to think aren't original in my truck (at nearly 200,000 miles)... ;-)

Quite, and probably the reason I'll go OEM when I replace them.
 
Fair comment - though doubt we'll have the 80 for another 200,000 (guess you never know!).
 
Fair comment - though doubt we'll have the 80 for another 200,000 (guess you never know!).

I'm planning on keeping mine for the rest of my days... That's 10-20 years tops, I guess if I'm lucky, which is another 200k km at current use rate.
 
AFAIK, unless they explode, most CVs wear and the full lock knock is the first signs.

Sadly, I heard it the other day from my LHS, reversing on full lock. Mine were Nitro Gear and they've been in for 3 years and as I discovered from the records, less than 100k km. :cry:

Do Nitro not offer lifetime warranty on those Clive? I know RCV do (except proven abuse) - I seem to recall Nitro just sell Longfields - which is where RCV come from.

Their re-build kit is sensible price though: http://www.justdifferentials.com/AXREBCVJ-p/axrebcvj.htm
 
Do Nitro not offer lifetime warranty on those Clive? I know RCV do (except proven abuse) - I seem to recall Nitro just sell Longfields - which is where RCV come from.

Their re-build kit is sensible price though: http://www.justdifferentials.com/AXREBCVJ-p/axrebcvj.htm

I'm going to look into this Roger, but I don't think so.

When I bought them I knew I would be taking a gamble, longevity vs strength.

I got them with good discount too, they'd been in the stores for a year (cancelled order) and they really wanted to just recover the cost of the import on them.

My question is do CVs have a tendency to dry out? I'm wondering if they could be re-greased. By the discussion on here promoting drilling and installing grease-points, it sounds as though it might be viable.

I'll be having a word with them soon, before it has chance to wear even more.
 
If they were built with the correct amount of grease they do not dry out and also retain grease. Mine are original and have done 149,000 road miles. Slight clicking in 4wd on tarmac. Toyota maintain their quality. Other suppliers may go from one maker to another.
 
I broke my (what I believe to be Toyota originals at 190k miles) about 5 mins into off-roading with ø37" tyres. They had worked with no fault on ø35" for about 18 months..........

As mentioned in the previous comments I then tried all sorts of either second hand original or HDK etc. They would break with regular occurrence on the ø37" to the point where I had lost confidence to use the loud pedal and the fun factor had just gone.

Whilst I do give the front end some mechanical sympathy, with the RCV's fitted I tend to put the locker in, boot it on full lock, dont worry about bouncing any way near as much as I used to or a LR owner has to! :)
 
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