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Hi everyone. To buy or not to buy?

Bobby

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Joined
Mar 3, 2018
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14
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honduras
So I’m currently living in Honduras and found a really nice 1980 BJ 40 for sale. I haven’t seen it personally but from the pictures and they seller’s description, everything looks really good. Engine running 100% (B engine), all original interior, and from the looks of the pictures- no rust. He’s asking $9000. Besides a new paint job and some different tires/rims, I’m considering pulling the trigger. Thoughts?!?

Thanks!

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Biggest problem is rust, so you need to see it yourself, in person, with your own rust detector (screwdriver and hammer).
 
It's a big gamble but it seem's very unlikely to me anyone would invest so much in the restoration of a rust bucket , depends what $9000 means to you , personally i think i would take the bet but hey how much is a flight to take take a look .
To wrap a large magnet in a soft cloth and run it over the bodywork is an infallible and harmless way to detect body filler where metal should be .
 
Welcome Bobby, thats a fine looking 40, however there is an ABCD to buying a second hand truck.
Assume nothing
Believe nothing
Challenge everything
and Don't be in a hurry.

Personally I wouldn't buy a 40 without driving one first ( unless you know what they are like) as they are an acquired taste especially the ride.
 
Personally I wouldn't buy a 40 without driving one first ( unless you know what they are like) as they are an acquired taste especially the ride.[/QUOTE]

Like a 60 but a bit more skittish. If drum brakes at the front these can slso be an interesting experience.
Dont let these put you off though, see if there is one for sale locally so you can drive it as an experience. If its a daily driver you need to be able to live with it
 
Hi Bobby,

Looks good in the photos but you need to see it 'in the flesh'
None of the photos show the dubious areas in any detail and they are:
Rear body x member below the rear doors although the tops of the doors look level which is a good sign.
Inside at the bottom of the front valance between brace and panel - muck gets trapped there and rots the panel
Where the windscreen joins the cowl
Inside at the bottom of the doors
And how good is it underneath Check the floorpan particularly on the driver's side.
The rear arches have been re-shaped so check the inner arch where they join the body.
None standard front seats and door pull is not standard and the weather strips are missing. The headlining is non-standard. No belts fitted in the rear.
Check inside the front wing struts as they trap water, etc..
IMO it is well worth a dose of looking at but also bear in mind all the advice from other members.
There is an ex-pat Brit in Costa Rica who makes bodypanels and tubs in steel and, to me, the front wings look like his - hence the leaning forward indicators. Wouldn't surprise me if more of the panels came from him.

Regards,
Rodger
 
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Hi and welcome looks a good 40 love the old 40s Rodger is a wealth of knowledge it's a big :thumbup: up from Tony.
 
It's a big gamble but it seem's very unlikely to me anyone would invest so much in the restoration of a rust bucket , depends what $9000 means to you , personally i think i would take the bet but hey how much is a flight to take take a look .
To wrap a large magnet in a soft cloth and run it over the bodywork is an infallible and harmless way to detect body filler where metal should be .
Yeah thanks. Will most likely buy a $70 ticket to check it out. Thanks for the advice.
 
Welcome Bobby, thats a fine looking 40, however there is an ABCD to buying a second hand truck.
Assume nothing
Believe nothing
Challenge everything
and Don't be in a hurry.

Personally I wouldn't buy a 40 without driving one first ( unless you know what they are like) as they are an acquired taste especially the ride.
Thanks! Definitely will drive it first no doubt about that!
 
Hi Bobby,

Looks good in the photos but you need to see it 'in the flesh'
None of the photos show the dubious areas in any detail and they are:
Rear body x member below the rear doors although the tops of the doors look level which is a good sign.
Inside at the bottom of the front valance between brace and panel - muck gets trapped there and rots the panel
Where the windscreen joins the cowl
Inside at the bottom of the doors
And how good is it underneath Check the floorpan particularly on the driver's side.
The rear arches have been re-shaped so check the inner arch where they join the body.
None standard front seats and door pull is not standard and the weather strips are missing. The headlining is non-standard. No belts fitted in the rear.
Check inside the front wing struts as they trap water, etc..
IMO it is well worth a dose of looking at but also bear in mind all the advice from other members.
There is an ex-pat Brit in Costa Rica who makes bodypanels and tubs in steel and, to me, the front wings look like his - hence the leaning forward indicators. Wouldn't surprise me if more of the panels came from him.

Regards,
Rodger
Thanks for taking the time to reply! Great advice. I’ll definitely take all that into consideration if I go and look at it. He sent me some more pictures, I’ll post. Also found out today that some gauges don’t work. I’ll probably buy a ticket to go look at it and drive it around either way. Hope I can import to US. Not that I ever plan to sell, but value would increase I’d guess.

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Hi Bobby,
The instrument panel is not located properly - the two tabs at the bottom should be inside the panel thus locating the base of the pod securely. But on the back is a 10 pin key connector which powers all the instruments (except speedo) and that has to be located properly otherwise the gauges don't work properly and it is on a short loop in the loom. This may account for some instruments not working and the need for the extra instruments located below.
The aircon looks to be aftermarket as the factory set up was located on the passenger side, unless that was a no-heater version.
Well worth a look IMO and I seem to remember reading somewhere that importing vehicles over 25 years old into the US is a reasonable process - except California of course.
The small grille under the headlight switch is the heat indicator spring for the glowplugs. Turn the key backwards and it should light up in 5-6 seconds as the glowplugs heat up. If not the relay has probably had it. The two switches to the left are non-standard (I think).
Put the VIN number into www.toyodiy.com and it will give you the original spec, designated region, etc..

Regards,
Rodger
 
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