- Joined
- Mar 1, 2010
- Messages
- 5,679
With the cold tank supply turned off the hot tank will drain itself by syphon action.
Rob I had a similar sequence of events in this house when we moved in. A steel water main disappearing into extension concrete foundations with no house stop cock apart from in the lane which took days to find. The hot tank was downstairs so no hot water upstairs. Also no insulation anywhere to stop pipes freezing or heat escaping. No cover on the plastic wafer thin cold water tank which was about to burst. Cold water tank had bird skeletons in the bottom and the cold taps were directly off this so we were drinking dilute dead birds.
I decided to remove the whole water system, electric central heating and install a new water main from the lane with a meter there and install a combi boiler and central heating. All quite easy once you have plans worked out. I was surprised how simple the building regs are. I think only 3/4 basic rules. It's just like running an electric circuit with flow and return being + and - . I guessed the rad sizes and used 22mm flow and return with 15 mm for the rad spurs. I used copper above floor level and plastic "fastfit" for below floor level where it did not have to look so neat and I could bend round corners to save on right angle joints. Also the fastfit system joins copper to plasic. If you decide to go that way, especially under floor, I'll post a couple of tips which would have saved me hours. Also I even installed the boiler but had to have a qualified person to light it!! The Worcester Bosch boilers come with a manifold on the wall so when you change the boiler you just unplug and plug a new boiler in.
Rob I had a similar sequence of events in this house when we moved in. A steel water main disappearing into extension concrete foundations with no house stop cock apart from in the lane which took days to find. The hot tank was downstairs so no hot water upstairs. Also no insulation anywhere to stop pipes freezing or heat escaping. No cover on the plastic wafer thin cold water tank which was about to burst. Cold water tank had bird skeletons in the bottom and the cold taps were directly off this so we were drinking dilute dead birds.
I decided to remove the whole water system, electric central heating and install a new water main from the lane with a meter there and install a combi boiler and central heating. All quite easy once you have plans worked out. I was surprised how simple the building regs are. I think only 3/4 basic rules. It's just like running an electric circuit with flow and return being + and - . I guessed the rad sizes and used 22mm flow and return with 15 mm for the rad spurs. I used copper above floor level and plastic "fastfit" for below floor level where it did not have to look so neat and I could bend round corners to save on right angle joints. Also the fastfit system joins copper to plasic. If you decide to go that way, especially under floor, I'll post a couple of tips which would have saved me hours. Also I even installed the boiler but had to have a qualified person to light it!! The Worcester Bosch boilers come with a manifold on the wall so when you change the boiler you just unplug and plug a new boiler in.