hub rebuild questions

[nick_the_fish]

Evening all,

So started the hub rebuild today. Only managed to strip it down today in-between school runs and dodging the showers. Went very well I think. The grease in there was looking really good.

A quick question tho:

1. Do I need to remove the axle from the CV to clean and pack in new grease, or can i leave the axle in the CV and clean out the old grease with rags/ solvent until it has all gone then re-pack with new grease? If i can leave them in, what is the best way to pack in the new grease?

Thanks

N

 

[Chris]

Nick you can do either. But this grease isn't like old engine oil. In my view there's no real need to purge the birfield joint to the point that it's spotless. It's just work for no real reason. Having said that, repacking them is much easier without the shaft in. Taking the shaft out isn't hard and perhaps something you should learn to do before you ever need to in an emergency. Getting it back together is worth practising too. Packing the grease in around the shaft just needs fingers and maybe something flat like a steel ruler to press it in. It helps to keep poking holes in the grease to let any air out so that you can push the grease in

 

[stumog]

I'd leave in.

The only way I have found to remove the cv is smash the cage off. Which renders it finished.

Leave shaft in clean and repack as chris said.

 

[chapel gate]

If you put the half shaft in a vice. One decent blow with a brass drift and lump hammer to the INNER part of the cage is normally enough.

 

[David]

Or drop the half shaft down a tube that is just a little bigger, the shock should separate them

 

[Chris]

That's the way David. Drop tube. Works very well.

 

[stumog]

I've tried all of that doesn't work for me.

No idea why

 

[David]

I have never done it on a cruiser but have used that method on tractors

 

[Chris]

If the circlip is damaged then it can be very difficult to remove. Damage can occur to the clip as you assemble so it's important to do it right. I've never struggled to get one apart. Nice piece of gas pipe placed on a rag or bit of soft wood and just shoot the driveshaft down the middle with some positive energy and 'pop' every time. The more that you fanny around with it, whacking it with hammers and do on the more you can foul up the clip.

I put the shafts back in using a nice wide tie-wrap.

 

[nick_the_fish]

great thanks for the replies guys. As always, very much appreciated.

 

[Chris]

 

[nick_the_fish]

Thanks @Chris

Ok next question, do I need to replace the Bushing and needle bearing inside the knuckle spindle? If so, how to I get the bush out? I can't see that it taps out from the other side so presumably a bearing puller?

 

[Chris]

Depends if it's shagged or not Nick. If you clean it out with some spray and it feels nice and smooth then leave it be. It's not really a bearing. It's a sort of set of guide rollers. It keeps things central but isn't a contact fit on the stub axle. It does tap out from the other side but there's very little lip to strike on.

 

[nick_the_fish]

OK thanks @Chris . They look and feel pretty good (based on my limited experience) so i think they will be ok. Presumably I can use bearing grease to lubricate them?

Next question - this is the state of the hubs after cleaning them with brake cleaner. Is this acceptable or do they need to be shiny and smooth?

 

[David]

You need moly grease for the cv and nit normal wheel bearing grease
Your balls look in better condition than the old 80 I have here

 

[Chris]

I think Nick was referring to the needle rollers David. Frankly I don't think it really matters. As I said, they are really bearings, they're just sort of supports. Remember that before they were needle rollers they we just bronze tubes. You can use the CV grease or some good quality grease that won't wash out so easily. I use a sort of marine grease or trailer bearing grease. The two greases won't mix in the hub so don't worry over it. Obviously you need moly CV grease in the hubs.

Personally I'd just take a bit or emery paper and smooth those cannon balls a little. They look very good really, but a light rub over will help prolong the life of the seals where there are little pips sticking up. Also give them a good greasing BEFORE you put the swivel hubs back on. The grease from the hubs won't really get all the way around the back of there, even if you push it in. Just take the opportunity now. Put the new seals on over the cannon ball, then lube them up all around. The wiper seals will scrape off the excess. It just means that now the back of the hubs will be nicely filled and more water proofed.

 

[nick_the_fish]

Yep @David I was referring to the needle rollers but thanks anyway. I'd rather hear something a thousand times than not at all.

re-build going well so far i think.

With regards to packing the CV's and swivel hubs - I have used 500ml of moly grease in each. Does that sound about right?

 

[David]

That sounds about right to me, sure Chris will tell us

 

[Chris]

D'yknow, I've no idea. I don't know what 500ml of grease is.
I use one tub per side all in pretty much. Is a tub 500ml? Hey, it's looks right to me. It looks beautifully packed.

 

[nick_the_fish]

brilliant thanks chaps. very much appreciate you being on hand while I live tweet my hub re-build.

I know they probably seem like simple questions but doing this for the first time make me feel slightly anxious about getting it right, especially as I have a tendency to over think/ worry about these things.