I don't believe it. Another set of flange studs snapped!!

[Chris]

Well traditionally Roger, OEM gaskets. Never goo. Not on the flanges. I agree 23 isn't much is it. I wonder if it might be better to CSK the flange face rather than the hub face, but either way it's good option. I know these are flush this time because I had to put them in the lathe and take a very very light skim off them due to the battering they took. Makes you wonder if having a gasket is actually a good idea. I guess Mr T thought so. On this occasion I couldn't measure the torque simply due to not being able to convert the hex drive to fit the wrench. So yes it was , Nnngh tight. I have that tool to procure - basically I need the right adaptor.

Ooh, bolts. Nice, thank you. Yes they are 35mm currently 8mm but still thinking about 10mm. The advantage with the 10s would be a bigger area to go at if I snap them and they need drilling! 8's are very fiddly. They'd only need 10mm max of blind shank.

Like I said, though. Fingers crossed I have cracked it. Next weekend I will go in for a look. Once I have jetted all the cr@p off!

C

 

[Roger Fairclough]

An 8mm bolt strength 10.8 is torqued to 40 N.m. A useful increase of nearly 33% over the standard Toyota stud/nut.

Roger

 

[Chris]

Thanks Roger. Useful data. I have thought about machining a 'keyway' of sorts into the flange and hub - like a dog clutch I guess. But I have to say it only an idea and frankly more than is needed. But hey I like ideas. HT bolts, nice and tight should do it.

Now just the rest of the truck to patch up

 

[J66P]

you been to Holy again Chris ?

 

[Chris]

Yes Mate. Holymudslide really lived up to its name today. As it got chewed it turned into a mud bath. Claimed quite a few victims. I got my self into a real state. Backing out of a deep channel, I popped into a different rut on a real angle and dug the rear diff in. Snapped rear rope, front winch wouldn't work, Defender just reeled himself in. Then we strapped a couple of vehicles together and pulled backwards very very slowly. Once the bonnet started to level out I stopped sweating. Think my passengers were happier too

Sorted winches out later and was back rescuing hapless LR owners as nature intended.

 

[J66P]

god I miss those days, the Collie certainly ain't made to go round there, My Jeep quite licked it with its locked and heavy mud terrains, still did a fair bit of damage everytime I went though. The Collie has been in there once and it said to me it didn't like it

 

[Chris]

Lil Blue spent many happy hours in there. It's a good little place and you can spend a good weekend driving around. Night driving is crazy. It's only spoiled by the 'usual' crowd, oddly not driving Japanese marques who insist on doing doughnuts in the camping field etc. You can't educate pork.

 

[frank rabbets]

Hi Chris

Perhaps your nuts have been overtightened in the past? Also if the wheels are offset they may be being streched. Large diameter wheels would stretch the studs in ruts and cornering more than the standard wheels.Standard, genuine studs would have a massive safety tolerance. Fit new genuine ones and you should be OK.

Frank

 

[Chris]

Been through those thoughts Frank. It could be over use syndrome. My hubs have been off more times than I can count. Not sure how off set is an issue though. Maybe for wheel studs, but flange studs? Howso? There isn't any lateral load on them I wouldn't have thought. Rotational - yes.

The last set to snap WERE genuine new. I have never fitted anything else.

 

[frank rabbets]

Sorry Chris, thought it was wheel studs. The only thing I can think of is overtightening then.

Frank

 

[Chris]

Well I do them with the T wrench Frank. But maybe they have just been worked too many times you know? However last set were new out of the packet.

Chris

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Well I do them with the T wrench Frank. But maybe they have just been worked too many times you know? However last set were new out of the packet.

Chris

More to the point Chris, what torque setting did you use?

Roger

 

[Chris]

The one from the FSM Roger - or why would I bother with the T wrench? That's sorta the point isn't it?

C

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The one from the FSM Roger - or why would I bother with the T wrench? That's sorta the point isn't it?

C

A misunderstanding of terms.Blame it on the shortening of words or expressions to suit text speech. I assumed that your use of the letter "T" indicated a cross lever style tool and not a torque wrench.

Roger

 

[Chris]

Ha ha, gotcha Roger. No, Torque Wrench. But if you read back, I'm pretty sure I have already said I do them up with the torque-o-meter.

Fingers crossed I have sorted it. They haven't let go again.

 

[frank rabbets]

I think the studs DO stop the flange from turning by "getting in the way" rather than providing a clamping force enough to stop creep. That's what the cones are for..........to stop the creep by making sure the studs effectively are exactly the same size as the holes they go into.

Frank

 

[Chris]

Could be Frank. I guess I don't know. I think that all that drive going through the studs is asking a lot when you compare them to the size of the wheels stud - no? Perhaps it's a mixture of both. Anyway, they're nice and tight now. Until tomorrow of course when I plan to pretty much take my truck apart again for a good fettle through. It's looking battered. I can see a big pot of NATO army surplus coming. Splish, splash, splosh. Yes is that the DVLA - the new colour is camo.

 

[MuckyPup]

Once upon a long while ago we had a similar problem with dumper truck hubs (just on a bigger scale)
The solution in the end was skimming the hub and drive flange and surfacing them with worn 80 grit emery on a surface plate, using cut down 12.9 bolts (i prefer external hex or bi-hex but you generally have to buy a boxful) countersink the holes slightly to slop them pulling proud and throw away the paper gasket (check you still have end float on the shaft) use ordinary boggo silicone sealant to hold the oil back and increase the clamping force (odd but it does)
If one was a bit hammered and we were on site we flatted them off with a file and used stud retainer loc-tite as a gasket, you could take the bolts out and you'd need a hammer to remove the flanges

We never really got to the bottom of our problem either, but we ended up in the same sort of solution direction as you have, it is all down to clamping force. increase area or increase pressure.
Dowels are always a good idea, and the cones are meant to act as dowels but just caused bolt failure on our problem hub (we couldn't add dowels due to hub face design)