Idiots guide to tightening the front wheel bearings

[Lorin]

I've just read all the excellent descriptions on here and the 'other' site re tightening the wheel bearings and am still slightly confused, so I need some 'advice for an idiot' - have I got this right

I'm trying to follow the instructions given here http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopi ... sc&start=0

I only want to tighten the bearings. I am happy taking everything apart until I am looking at the two 54mm nuts separated by the lock washer. Then I take off the outer nut and lock washer.

Right, so I then do up the inner 54mm nut to somewhere between 43-60 ft/lbs with 50 ft/lbs seeming to be about right for running 33" mud terrains - doing all the checks as described in the write-up to ensure there is no excess movement. This I assume is the 'preload'?

Then I slacken the same 54mm nut off and do it back up - but this is where I get confused.... 3 ft/lbs is the 'correct' torque setting but am I right in thinking that Julian recommends 20 ft/lbs and Jon 35-40 ft/lbs (for 36" tyres)? So given my 33s, the 20 ft/lb setting should be about right?

Once that bit is sorted I then re-install the lock washer and lock-nut, doing it up to 47 ft/lbs and job done!?

Have I missed anything.....?

 

[Chris]

Lorin, there are several ways to do this, but I DO understand your question. The principle is that you tighten up the inner nut (forget all that torque stuff for now) in order to bed the bearings in. What is important is the rotating of the wheels when the nut is tight. I would tighten in stages spinning the wheel as I go back and forth to get them really settled. Now I don't bother measuring that torque. I just tighten until I feel then starting to get a little tight. The problem with torquing on the stub axles that I have found is that if the nut binds on the threads then you are not torquing the nut against the thrust washer, your are torquing it against the binding threads.

So one tight and rotated in, don't slacken them right off, slacken then gradually until the rotational torque on the wheel studs reaches somewhere around 12 lbs. Now people quote different figures, but as someone said hey 12, 20 whatever as long as it's not 90!

Everyone has a different view and there are some hugely experienced nut toquers on here. But I don't find the torquing of the wheel nut is as good as measuring the rotational resistance on the studs. Get some fishing scales and hook them onto the wheel stud and pull until the wheel breaks away. That's the actual resistance. Do it at 90 to the wheel - ie tangentially. I find that very reliable. But instead of tightening to that torque - slacken off to that torque instead.

Hope that help. A different opinion will be along any second.

Chris

 

[Chas]

As always Chris you have made it very clear, I have copied and pasted as a word doc to be put with all the other files I save on Cruiser stuff for future reference. Many thanks.

 

[Chris]

Doesn't mean that it's right Chas - just that it seems to work well. Never been convinced that the torque placed on the nut is exactly reflective of the rotational resistance. It's interesting to measure this again when you next take the wheel off before you start undoing everything. What I have found doing it this way is that the scales read the same as when I set it last time I was in there. You can use a combination of T Wrench and scales I'm sure but with a worn bearing which I had early on with the white one, I torqued and torqued until the nut seemed pretty solid - well past what it should be, but the resistance on the wheel wouldn't go past about 6 lbs. Clearly something worn in there. So I got new Rubie-bearing and voilà.

I got some cracking electronic scales from Hong Kong delivered for less than a fiver!!! They are really good.

Chris

 

[Chas]

Thanks again Chris, I've added that to the aforementioned word file.

 

[Lorin]

As always Chris you have made it very clear

Yep, cheers for that Chris - makes a lot of sense. Right, off to tighten the bu**ers.

 

[Cptsideways]

Do the initial torque setting, spin wheel, release & tighten the nut by hand with the tube spanner, then do up the lock nut. Seems to work a treat & dead simples to repeat every time. From my expereince any torque beyond no play is not good for the bearing.

 

[chriscolleman]

I've always used the fishing scales approach as the other Chris has detailed nicely.
It doesn't measure the torque on the nut, it measures the rotational resistance. As said.

This method is also described in most of the repair manuals I use, when conical bearings are used.

Never had a problem with it.
Fishing scales are also great for calibrating your torque wrenches yourself