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Injector Replacement and EGR Clean - 2003 KDJR120


Well-Known Member
Dec 12, 2011
The What
I'm about to embark on a mission.

- Replace the injectors
- Replace the fuel pipes
- Throttle body / EGR removal and clean
- Inlet manifold check (pleeeease be ok )
- Valve clearance check
- Clean, check, replace, eyeball a few bits along the way

This post is for me to keep track of things as I go like I did with the drawers build and hopefully help out anyone with the same year/model as mine that can't find the model/year specific detail in all the usual places - it looks like there are some gotchas.

LC Specifics
2003 Landcruiser 120 LC4
Euro 3 (probably - no EGR cooler, just a pipe)
150,000+ miles

The Why (the job)
It's mostly preventative maintenance work. The LC is 21 years old, has over 150,000 miles on the clock, is running original everything - and is leaking oil around the valve cover (probably). I don't know if that's because it's a 21 year old gasket going hard or if someone has been in there and not taken the time to do things 100% - but it's a good chance to find out. Oil pickup is good, runs pretty well and not "too" much smoke - but it's old enough and there's enough oil to take action now. It's a good chance to check everything, replace the old important bits, clean up and put my mind at ease before we get out and do some miles. In short, it's getting old and we're replacing bits before they break when we're in the middle of nowehere. Also, we "think" we want to have a go.

The Why (the post)
I've spent a long time researching, preparing and re-reseasrching and preparing for this job. I have used every resource I can find and the closer I get to the job the more I discover stuff that isn't covered in most online resources. If you have an early 120 series and have been reading posts here and watching things like FourBy4Diesel videos, there WILL be things you find to be quite different and some gotchas/surprises along the way. Don't get me wrong, the resources are superb and I wouldn't even be considering this job without the support I've had from them - but it doesn't cover the older early 120s specifically and there's stuff different enough that I wouldn't have been prepared. Nothing huge - but maybe enough to knock my confidence and get the anxiety bubbling if I'd only found out once the job had started. Even the old Euro3 Hilux videos on FourBy4Diesel didn't quite prepare me for the position of No.4 fuel pipe on my 120 :crazy:

The How
We can't afford to have it done - so we're just gonna get stuck in and do it ourselves. Me and the Mrs. Giggling and tripping and fighting and dribbling all the way through. What we lack in experience and talent we're making up for with fear, a healthy understanding of our incompentence and the power of a pokey outy tongue. Who knows, we might just not stuff it up.

Important Disclaimer :character-oldtimer:
There are much better resources around, written by people who know what they are doing. I am NOT one of those people. I'm just a muppet with a spanner and trust issues (and not enough money to pay to get it done). If that's not clear enough let me be clearer - I do not know what I'm doing. Do not follow me. Do not copy me. Do your own research. Check your own specs. If I sound convincing trust me even less. Certainly ignore my part numbers and torque settings :lol:

Succeed or fail, this post might prove useful to someone doing the job on a 120. However, it's specifically for a 2003 LC 120. If yours isn't that - this likely isn't for you. Even if it is, expect that everything I say is naive, wrong, biased, daft, incorrect and/or otherwise not good enough to act on. This isn't modesty - don't follow me. Laugh at me, point at me, learn from my mistakes - but don't follow me. Please.

OK. Post started. I suppose we should get on with it.

Injectors just arrived. Next post will have some detail ...
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*** Remember this is 2003 120 specific ***
*** Even if yours is a 2003, yours might be different ***

I've posted about this before so I'll keep it short. Injectors were sourced from Denso UK. I'm a paranoid old fool that wanted to shorten the supply chain as much as possible to be as sure as I could that I had legit, new injectors from Denso that hadn't been tampered with. I think I have that. It took quite some time to negotiate a process which ended up with me basically becoming a reseller in order to secure my set. :lol: ... Quite a palava but I have them now and I'm happy.

I started by getting my part numbers from my local Toyota delaer. I then called other Toyota dealers to confirm the number. I then referenced as many online part diagrams as I could find to cross reference and double check. I then checked with injector suppliers. I then called Denso directly to confirm. If I have the wrong injectors it won't be because I didn't check :lol:

I opened the box and was reassured that they are indeed totally different from what I originally expected. I knew this ahead of time, I just wasn't fully sure about "how" they were different. Here's some important things to note.

Injector Assembly vs Injector Components
As you likely know, when you look at a parts diagram you'll see different injector components that come together to form the whole injector assembly. I wasn't able to confirm 100% whether or not the injectors coming directly form Denso would include all components in an assembly as they would if ordered through Toyota - or if it would just be the main injector body. While the Toyota assembly part number is easy enough to match to the Denso part number - I wasn't sure exactly what would come in the pack. For me, everything came in the pack in my kits. O-rings, Backup rings, seats and injectors. Full assembly. You should check if it will be the case for yours.

O-ring and Backup ring
These came pre-installed on the injectors in the sealed pack.

I didn't know if the right "new copper" ones would come in the pack. They did with mine. You should check if they will for yours. I ordered some from Toyota because I couldn't confirm 100% in advance and got stupidly impatient. I have backups now though for when I drop one or more in the head. What kind of impatiently excited fool orders them when they know they might be coming?

They come with a hefty "spring" thing around the top
This is different to most things you'll see online - but it's what I expected to see after checking the workshop manual in detail last week (which calls it a spring). It has to be facing the right way when clamped down (difficult to get wrong but that's what it says). I'll post details when I get to it.

Yup. Surprised? Me too. Have spoken to Denso UK directly to confirm and they say this is the case for the older models. The check was to see how many pins are in the injector plug. Four on mine. Apparantly the top two are for a resistance check that the LC does to configure them itself. No compensation code input required. Tentively accepting that for now because the ones in the LC don't have codes on them either. When I pull the old ones out I'll do a final side by side check to be sure.

Manufacture dates
My packs have dates stamped on the inside of the packaging stating Feb this year (underneath). This is not a manufacture date. It "might" be a packing date. I've spoken to Denso UK again and confirmed that the manufacture dates are within a reasonable timeframe (October/November last year) - but wasn't able to secure the "mythical chart" that they use to determine the dates from the serial numbers. For now I don't care, they are legit, relatively new and close enough in serial number sequence for me to be happy.

Toyota wanted over £4,000 just for the injectors. Absolute liberty.
I'll do a post with all costs and part numbers etc later - but for the eager, I got my set of four for less than one from Toyota. :eusa-naughty:


More detail to come on other parts, tools, prep etc - just struggling for time right now...
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Might as well chuck up some of the part numbers I've found / used.
Usual disclaimer, these are hopefully right for my 2003 LC 120 - likely not for yours.

There are loads of parts diagram resources online.
I did most of my parts research from the diagrams on Partsouq. This is the link for my model and year.
I have spent many, many nights just looking over these diagrams. You can also see part numbers and usually a picture of the part too. Very useful. Never underestimate the power of a parts diagram to plan and understand a job.

I found ToyoDiy (link to my model & year) useful too for checking part numbers and getting guide prices. If I was doing it again, I would have properly checked out the supply line of Yam6 because their prices are about where they should be and they claim to only sell fully OE Toyota parts. That's not a recommendation because I haven't used them - but I will check them out in the future.

Some of these I've ordered for use (green/blue), some I had listed just in case I needed them.

*** Note - If I was doing this again I wouldn't buy a lot of this stuff from Toyota. I'd still get OE Toyota parts but not from a dealer. ***

PartPart No.SourceCost Exc. VAT
Injector Assembly (via Denso)DCRI100750Denso4 x less than £250
Injector Clamp Stretch Bolts *90105-08374Toyota4 x £2.99
Injector Clamp Washers *90209-10021Toyota4 x £1.55
Fuel return line gaskets90904-30013Toyota5 x £11.48
Fuel Pipe No. 1 *23701-30010Toyota1 x £66.76
Fuel Pipe No. 2 *23702-30010Toyota1 x £66.76
Fuel Pipe No. 3 *23703-30010Toyota1 x £66.76
Fuel Pipe No. 4 *23704-39015Toyota1 x £66.76
Injector Nozzle Seal (Side) *23681-30010Toyota4 x £3.58
Cylinder Cover Injector Seals (Top) *23682-30020Toyota4 x £8.56
Cylinder Cover Gasket11213-30020 (11213-30021)Toyota1 x £16.43
MAP Filter *90917-11044Toyota1 x £47.00
Venturi / EGR / Throttle Body Gasket26171-30012 (26171-30013)Toyota2 x £6.07
EGR Valve Gasket25627-30010Toyota1 x £1.36
Glow plug connector (rail) *198710L012Toyota1 x £10.15
Glow Plug Caps *90189-04024Toyota4 x £1.66

  • The injector clamp "stretch" bolts I'm replacing "just in case". We've seen one snap on here and we decided they're cheap enough to lose the cost in the overall job and not think about it.

  • Injector clamp washers - probably controversial but the Toyota workshop manual clearly says - and repeats - that they are a single use item. They're a kind of spring washer. I listen to the engineers that designed the engine (when I can afford to).

  • Fuel pipes. The FourBy4Diesel folks say "New Injectors, new pipes." Some ignore that or simply don't agree. I've decided to follow my Toyota workshop manual. That clearly says, in bold, new injectors new pipes. Makes sense to me that the pipe seals squash into the shape of the injector fitting under torque and harden over time. Maybe it's not necessary but I intend to do this job once and as "right" as I can for me. So I'm fitting new pipes. They're also 21 years old.

  • Injector seals (top ones and side ones) I'm replacing whatever their condition. They're 21 years old, rubber and cheap enough to get done. No point avoiding a few extra quid on important bits when I'm in this far. There's a good chance my oil might be coming from these - at least in part.

  • MAP Filter. Might as well. They do crack and get clogged usually well before the LC age and mileage (apparantly). Wasn't expecting £50 though. Nearly fell over.

  • The glow plug rail and caps are because mine is a real mess. Very rusted. There's a good chance I won't need to replace it but if it's as bad as it looks, it'll have to be done while the fuel pipes, throttle body and EGR are off. For £10 it's worth having to hand. The little plastic caps look like they will dissolve if touched so I got them too just in case.

Other parts I had listed for reference / just in case.

PartPart No.SourceCost Exc. VAT
Injector Assembly (via Toyota)23670-39025Toyota4 x £748.04
Injector seats *11176-30010 (11176-30011)Toyota4 x £4.17
Injector o-rings *96721-19017Toyota4 x £4.55
Injector Backup Rings *23256-30010Toyota4 x £7.30
Cylinder Head Cover Assembly (via Toyota) *11210-30083Toyota1 x £305.00
Cylinder Head Cover Assembly (via Yam6) *11210-30083Yam61 x £154.00
Fuel return line hollow bolts *23679-27020Toyota4 x £12.50

  • The first four injector bits all come togther as the injector assembly. I ordered some of them separately from Toyota even though I knew they were probably coming in the injector assembly because I'm daft. Don't do this. You'll be daft too.

  • Cylinder head cover assembly. Sourced the part number just in case mine is cracked. It shouldn't be but it's old and I can't be 100% sure that someone hasn't been in there and overtightened it. They're only plastic and it won't take much. If I do need one I won't be happy because the assembly comes with the seals I've already bought - and Toyota, in usual Toyota dealer crook form, won't take them back. If I'm unlucky I'll get a new cover assembly on the quick (from Yam6 not Toyota) and ebay the seals. Yam6 want £154 for a genuine OE from Toyota. Toyota want over £300.

  • The original fuel return line hollow bolts are too big and can catch the gaskets when tightened. Credit to FourBy4Diesel for this tip. Toyota replaced them with smaller bolts on later models and some people replace them - but for £60? I'm just going to be careful when I do my giant ones up!

I'll detail the full and final cost when we get to the end of the project but hopefully this helps to get an idea.
I reckon we'll be fully done, including oil & filter service, for less than £1,500.
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There's not much I'm going to need that I haven't got kicking around - but we got a couple of extra bits to make life easier (hopefully). Mostly because I was waiting for the injectors for so long that I kept buying little bits I don't need. I'll stop now. :shh:

- Wooden stick - aka "Woody the injector port cleaner"
- 17mm crow foot spanner
- 17mm difficult access / fuel pipe socket
- Socket uni-joint
- New socket extension bars & wobble extension (can't find mine anywhere)
- New feeler gauge set for the valve clearance check (gone a bit rusty)

I took the opportunity (good excuse) to get a couple of bits as duplicates of what I've already got because I didn't want to raid the emergency bike toolkit. We'll just end up broken down in the middle of nowhere in full baking bike gear without a 1/4" extension and 12mm socket because I forgot to put it back :icon-rolleyes:

Also taking the time to clean and prep all the tools. Love a good opportunity to clean and lay out tools. Never gets old :thumbup:
I'll chuck up a pic of everything laid out when I get to it. If I can make enough room!

I'll also keep track of every tool I use (and don't use) in case it helps anyone to prepare later.
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I'm going into this job with the following stuff.
The hope is that we can get a clean run at it without having to run to the shop for a tool or part we missed.

Parts & Tools
Everything checked, re-checked, prepped and labelled. All tools cleaned and organised.

Cleaning Kit
Everything we touch is getting cleaned so loads of rags, brushes and squirts. This includes degreasers, sprays, rags and brushes for the engine, throttle body, EGR and valve cover etc. Also new little wire brushes for the now rusty common rail :icon-rolleyes:. If I'm learning anything it's that everything must be clean. Clean clean clean. She's gonna love this.

LC & General

Table for tools and parts, towels, gloves, coffee, containers and pots for nuts and bolts, sandwiches, note pads for detailing what we use (for here) and what goes where (for us). We'll also have the LC prepped inside for storing the bits we take off. We don't have a garage to use so will be battling the elements and dusty air. Not ideal but it's what we've got to work with. Might even make a bonnet bubble from plastic sheets before we get the injector pipes off.

The Mrs. & A Pack of Coloured Paint Pens (12 colours)
Every nut, bolt, clip, vacum tube, bracket and plug is getting marked for reference so we have some hope of getting it all back together again. I'm usually ok with this stuff but I know I'm going to be fully distracted and might need help keeping track (especially if it runs over a couple of days). Fortunately the other half will be all over the organisation stuff. And not just that - she's the perfect 5'2" spanner buddy just waiting to get on her ladder and climb over the engine. It's going to be a real giggle if nothing else. If she's there I'm far less likely to see the red mist when things get tricky too.

Toyota Workshop Manual & Parts Diagrams
ALL relevant sections of the workshop manual and ALL releveant parts diagrams printed and ready to be referenced (with notes and all verified torque specs etc). No wasted time hunting around for a torque spec or remembering where something attaches to the EGR etc. Hopefully.

Valve Clearance Check Sheet

Prepared and printed check list with reminder notes and tolerance specs - and places to write all measurements.

Instruction Booklet
We've made notes of everything we think we have to do along the way as we've absorbed the info. It's weeks of notes. Hopefully this will help keep me on track with a considered order of things as we go. I have a tendancy to either get caught up in my own head - or worse go exploring with the spanner - and there's no time for either here. Must stay focussed. I'm up to 30 pages so far of step by step notes, warnings, gotchas, verified torque specs and reminders to breathe. Now I've just got to go back through it and and change things to actually match my 2003 LC. That bloody No. 4 pipe position down behind the oil filter is going to drive me nuts - I can feel it.

You Lot
All the posts, tips, support and resources on here (and other forums).

All of the FourBy4Diesel videos fresh in my mind (and the 1KD Facebook forums for backup). Wouldn't be doing this at all without Anthony's help and videos for inspiration. Cheers Anthony :thumbup:

That's pretty much my prep list. Next post I'll maybe chuck up an outline plan. Be funny to see how close the reality comes to it.
Sorry for so may words here folks - it's helping me to think things through ...
Excellent thread so far Sam and very well prepared.
When you mention 'new copper" washers, I assume you mean the aluminium coated ones ? If they are silver in colour rather than copper colour you are OK.
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Excellent thread so far Sam and very well prepared.
When you mention 'new copper" washers, I assume you mean the aluminium coated ones ? If they are silver in colour rather than copper colour you are OK.

Cheers TM.

Yup, ok with either silver type (silver coated copper). It was interesting to learn from Denso that they come in either the normal matt silver or shiny silver. FourBy4Diesel thought the matt finish were from Japan (usually) and the shiny ones from Thailand (usually). Either are apparantly legit - but I was happy to see mine were the matt finish I was expecting. Don't know why, just feel better about it. :confusion-shrug:
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I didn't know that Sam, I have seen both and assumed one was a knock off, but didn't know which.
Obviously now, neither is.
Japan does give a little more confidence, even though Toyta parts seem to come from several countries.
Look forward to the rest, as and when mate.
Screenshot_20240325_083523_Samsung Internet.jpg

Emailed Charles Francis Ltd. but no reply.Couldn't navigate Amayama,Yam6 or Toyodiy so I tried Partsouq,good website and easy to use,seems pricy tho' ? I think that's for one injector?
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Yes. A bit steep.

I haven't checked the part number and I don't know what you need ... but ...
IF that's the right part number ... and IF that relates to Denso Part No. DCRI107730 ... you'll probably find most UK outlets selling them at around £250 each (or $320) -Turbo Diesel, PF Jones etc. They'll likely be getting them from distributors at around £150-£200 each depending on their arrangements and sales (they've got to eat). Hope that helps - just make sure you verify/trust the source :thumbup:
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Thanks mate,do injectors always have to be replaced as a set of four or can you just replace one errant injector?
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Screenshot_20240326_141129_Samsung Internet.jpg

Finally found a company that answers emails promptly and good prices too.
I'm sure someone more in the know will answer the question about changing one or all of them better than me - but I've heard people say they have just replaced one before. I would have to consider how long they have been in there though - especially if you are changing the fuel pipes too. How soon before the rest go? How many times do you want to get in there and do the job / risk contamination in the pipes?

The turbo-diesel cost seems around about where people are selling for - although the plus delivery bit might be a bit cheecky if you ask me.

I would be interested to know what they mean by 2 years warranty. Waranteed by who? Turbo Diesel or Denso? I don't know how this works but I imagine that Denso might require a "qualified" or "approved technician" to do the job before they accept warranty claims. If it's Turbo-Diesel offering the warranty, maybe make sure they mean it's valid if you fit them yourself - in writing. If not, then maybe the warranty doesn't mean anythiing so the price should be considered without that aspect. Just a thought.
Well. The job is ....... let's go with a hesitant complete. The jury is very much out with regards to mission success or failure.

Couldn't update as I went because I was way too involved in what I was doing. Two Days in the end. Friday 7am 'til 10pm. Saturday 7am til 6pm. More cleaning than anything.

They say the adventure doesn't start until things go wrong. Well, we certainly had a few adventures and learned some lessons along the way. We'll know in the next coupe of days but there's a good chance we might have to go in and do it again (alignment). All details with pics will come when I get the time. Got to get back to family and weekend jobs now - I just wanted to update with something at least.

Overall job was:

- throttle body and EGR removal and clean
- manifold hoover (not removed)
- valve clearance checks
- new glow plug connector bar and caps
- new injectors
- new fuel pipes
- new gaskets and seals

I was right that if you have a 2003 there are some differences to most of the stuff you find on forums and videos for 120s. Most of what I thought would be difficult was pretty easy, a lot of what I thought was going to be easy was quite tricky - and some things I didn't expect made things pretty awkward. Not least the things I dropped into the head (all eventually retrieved). :whistle:

All in all, we made it through. The LC was in astonishingly good shape throughout the EGR and manifold (come on euro 3s) - but 3 out of 4 injector o-rings were toast (so 3 out of 4 were soaked and dripping with oil all the way down). 3 out of 4 seats are welded to the injectors - bright coppper coloured ones. We really did go in just in time I think (or maybe a little late) :think:

I'll post some pictures and full descriptions when I get the time. At the moment we need to get back to holiday weekend stuff and recoup. Two long days of leaning over the bumper and wings trying to get into awkward spaces takes it's toll. Don't underestimate the size of the bumper and wings or how little there is to support your weight when you're leaning right into the engine bay. It's ok to do jobs - but pretty demanding after a couple of days. I'm 6'2", she's 5'2" (and a bit) and we both struggled with and without steps. At the end of day two (last night) we were in so much pain we couldn't move. Eating takeaway in a collapsed pile on the floor was the funniest dinner we've had in a while. Every time we move now there's many loud groans and lots of desperate laughter. We're broken. :lol:
Not ashamed to say it was quite demanding. I'd make some allowances for it if you decide to do this yourself. A lot of fun though and glad we had a go. It would be great if my mistake doesn't mean we have to do it again straight away - which I think it might - but even if we have to, it started within 7 seconds and runs well - so I'm taking that as a win for now :dance:

Pics and blah blah to follow :thumbup:
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Well done Sam (and wife) and it does start which is a good sign
Alignment ???
Yep, I would do the 4 all at once regardless, it's all very well cutting corners on cost, but once done, they are all in there from the same date/mileage. Otherwise (time unknown) replacing individuals, you could be back in there doing the same thing in another year or 2- then another, etc, and if things were to go disastrously wrong in the interim, possibly more headaches and serious expense to the detriment of the engine. Plus any more cost of fuel pipes breaking, gaskets/bolts etc which have already been renewed previous times.
IMHO, that is a big false economy when you know the whole job will have to be done anyway.
Keep it coming mate, reading with great interest !

I would think that warranty applies like most - if fitted by a qualified person which is backed up by proper a receipt, with still more hoops to jump through, and all the time having the injectors returned to supplier to send back to manufacturers for testing while the vehicle is off the road.
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Great write up :)

Something im looking to do at some point possibly - certainly want to do the EGR clean and add the 7mm plate, checked the valve clearances etc.

Injectors im not sure if I want to touch - I need to read my correction values and make a judgement possibly
Injectors im not sure if I want to touch - I need to read my correction values and make a judgement possibly
It's probably your oil / oil pickup you want to check more than your injector values for clues as to how they're getting on. Or both. Just look up through the hole when you next drop the oil and make sure your mesh is clean (or get your phone to look in the hole - or better still a mirror). A blocked mesh means clogged oil which means the injector seals are likely failing (allowing blow-by). If it's clean, maybe you can afford to go by what the Techstream values say. I went purely on age for mine (my oil pickup was clean). After 21 years my EGR / manifold was basically clear. What year is your LC?


As for the injectors, having done the job now, I'd say it's within anyone's ability if you move slowly and carefully. Getting the throttle bottle and EGR off is over half the job (as far as remembering what goes where etc). The injector bit itself is very easy as long as you move slow, check your work and remember that it's 80% cleaning. There are a few little bits to be careful of (ask me how I know) - but nothing crazy. If you can do the EGR clean you can do injectors for sure. Watch all the injector videos on FourBy4Diesel and you'll get a good feel for the job. There are good threads on here too of course - with pictures and videos.
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