Sam
Well-Known Member
Differences and gotchas etc. continued ...
Glow Plug Bar
You might be able to see in some of the pictures that our glow plug connector strip thing was in a real rusty state. We knew we wouldn't know how bad it really was until we were in there - and that we wouldn't really really be able to tell until the fuel lines were off. I thought that would be too far into the job to stop and go and get a new connector if we needed one, so we bought one with all the other parts and had it to hand just in case.
In the end it really was a mess but I don't think it was actually *necessary* to change it. It had long been without it's paint and was very, very rusty - but they are actually much thicker and sturdier than I expected. We changed it because we had it - but I wouldn't be losing sleep if we hadn't. Not sure if that helps anyone
To fit, it was very easy. Everything was pretty much finger tight. The cream caps just screw off by hand and the *tiny* nuts are very loose. They don't need to come off all the way. We just loosened them a little and let the connector hooks slide out. Of course the wiring at the end into the loom needs to come off but that's probably already been done if you've removed the EGR.
If I have any tips here it's this ... the little tiny nuts are on little tiny threads - and I mean tiny. I'm confident the torque spec, if they even have one, is about zero newton meters. That's approx. zero foot pounds. In fact whatever your measurement of choice, it's about zero. Those threads are tiny. I'm sure they will snap if you cough near them. I went to *just* past finger tight. Of course, don't listen to me - they might actually have a torque spec and a reason to use it
Glow Plug Bar
You might be able to see in some of the pictures that our glow plug connector strip thing was in a real rusty state. We knew we wouldn't know how bad it really was until we were in there - and that we wouldn't really really be able to tell until the fuel lines were off. I thought that would be too far into the job to stop and go and get a new connector if we needed one, so we bought one with all the other parts and had it to hand just in case.
In the end it really was a mess but I don't think it was actually *necessary* to change it. It had long been without it's paint and was very, very rusty - but they are actually much thicker and sturdier than I expected. We changed it because we had it - but I wouldn't be losing sleep if we hadn't. Not sure if that helps anyone

To fit, it was very easy. Everything was pretty much finger tight. The cream caps just screw off by hand and the *tiny* nuts are very loose. They don't need to come off all the way. We just loosened them a little and let the connector hooks slide out. Of course the wiring at the end into the loom needs to come off but that's probably already been done if you've removed the EGR.
If I have any tips here it's this ... the little tiny nuts are on little tiny threads - and I mean tiny. I'm confident the torque spec, if they even have one, is about zero newton meters. That's approx. zero foot pounds. In fact whatever your measurement of choice, it's about zero. Those threads are tiny. I'm sure they will snap if you cough near them. I went to *just* past finger tight. Of course, don't listen to me - they might actually have a torque spec and a reason to use it

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