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Intercooler fitted - boost, fuelling and and electrical help please...

GuyB

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Jun 8, 2015
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sweden
Morning all...

Got my water/air intercooler fitted up yesterday (pics to follow) but there's a couple of issues I need guidance on...

1. Boost compensation: There's nowhere on the intercooler to connect the small air hose that runs to the boost sensors and fuel pump. I'm thinking of drilling, tapping and using the hose connection from the old turbo's wastegate actuator, but that's a bigger aperture than the 'pinhole' sized one on the original connection. My physics is rubbish - but am I right in thinking that won't affect the amount of pressure on the diaphragm in the pump? In which case the pinhole nozzle is just to prevent all the boost from escaping in the event of the hose being disconnected?

2. Being a water to air unit, it needs a pump, which needs a power source. Can anyone suggest suitable power supply? I assume there's something that's only on when the engine is running...
 
1, no, it won't make any difference apart from possibly allowing a faster response which may or may not be undesirable if it happens.
2, Its probably best to take a supply from the RHS battery (driver's view) via a fuse close to the battery to a relay which then feeds the pump. Take the coil wire for the relay via a fuse from any item that runs with the engine, this could be the feed to the fuel pump shut off solenoid or something inside under the dash like the radio or heater fan for example. Just make sure the wire is sufficient for the circuit fuse or else fuse it down at the point of connection which can be tricky and difficult to get to.
 
1, no, it won't make any difference apart from possibly allowing a faster response which may or may not be undesirable if it happens.
2, Its probably best to take a supply from the RHS battery (driver's view) via a fuse close to the battery to a relay which then feeds the pump. Take the coil wire for the relay via a fuse from any item that runs with the engine, this could be the feed to the fuel pump shut off solenoid or something inside under the dash like the radio or heater fan for example. Just make sure the wire is sufficient for the circuit fuse or else fuse it down at the point of connection which can be tricky and difficult to get to.

Thanks! Yes, my bad - I said power source but what I meant was a power supply to flip the relay. Power straight from the battery, via said relay, as you suggest. It's finding an item that runs with the engine I'm struggling with... I think the radio and heater fan run on ACC, don't they? Which means if I'm parked listening to tunes and keeping warm, the intercooler pump will be whirring away...

Fuel shut-off solenoid sounds like a good call - any chance of a pic showing where it is? I know what it does, but not what it looks like!
 
Isnt there suitable connections in the little extra electrics box on the inner wing?
 
Does the 80 have electric adjust/leveling headlights , they are a permanent and mostly unused live on the 90 .
 
I can't post a photo for a few days and in truth I couldn't point you at the right connector. There's a couple on the back of the pump, I think it's the lower one. Try disconnecting one then see if it will start. When it doesn't you've got the right one. Use a test meter to find the right wire. It will receive 12v from the loom and the corresponding pin/socket on the pump will have resistance to earth. If I get the chance I'll have a look and see if I have a wiring diagram to give you the wire colour.
 
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Does the 80 have electric adjust/leveling headlights , they are a permanent and mostly unused live on the 90 .
Doesn't have them Shayne. At least mine doesn't.
 
hi Guy,
you can use the power outlet box in the engine compartment next to the airfilter; terminal 2 is live when the ignition is on.
power outlet box.jpg
 
Thanks all! Yes the power outlet box was my first port of call but unfortunately, it seems to have been fried at some point and the only terminal that gives me a signal is on the first click of the ignition key. Might be worth trying to remedy that while I'm poking around with a multimeter looking into StarCruiser's suggestion...
 
I had to weld a couple of brackets onto the front crossmember to hold the radiator as it's a heavy thing. One of the three reasons I wish I'd gone for front mount air to air. The second is that a front mount intercooler acts as a failsafe in case your turbo goes pop (further for pieces of turbine to travel before they can foul the engine), the third is just simplicity. In all though, pretty straight forward - still haven't commissioned it...
 
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