Interesting Morning

[TonyP]

Brilliant Tony, a happy ending to an unhappy occurrence, and a lotto win on the way (now you did buy a ticket didn't you? Don't tell me you didn't....).

Erm.... No car so no way yo get a ticket... However does getting laid count?

 

[silvercruiser]

Very Close call!! Glad its now getting sorted. Im off to check my nuts

 

[Firewout]

To grease or not to grease...
Fwiw
The teacher from my car mechanic evening classes told me not to grease the studs because they can get too hot from the brakes and the grease would burn. So now I use the copper high temperature grease.

 

[frank rabbets]

Grease is essential.

 

[chadr]

Erm.... No car so no way yo get a ticket... However does getting laid count?

I would've thought that given the circumstances, especially the narrow escape and the modest repair cost, NOT getting shafted is a result!!

 

[frank rabbets]

p.s. Rust promotes cracks in high tensile steel.

 

[Roger]

Who has had the most issues, Alloy or Steel wheels or is it not particular to wheel type?

 

[Gasmanjc]

Wow so Lucky!
In regards to Lubricating the studs , I was told never to do this as it lets the nuts go on much easier which will allow them to be over tightened even when using a preset rattle gun or when using a wheel spanner. Not sure on how a Tension wrench may be affected.

I was informed I had one stretched on my last tire change and could visibly see the stud protruded further than the others on the same wheel. When I had the 80k service by Toyota it snapped on re tightening when the wheel rotation was done. I knew straight away it wasn't the Toyota mechanic over tightening it. Cost me $70 for them to replace it

 

[TonyP]

What do you guys think of these alloys, do you think they can be refurbished?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371910355205

I need to refurb mine anyway, so it makes sense to get a spare set, get my ones done, new rubber and then sell the old ones....

 

[silvercruiser]

Should be ok. i found a place that could re diamond cut, but they wouldnt warranty them due to the corrosion issues. so i went dor a powder coat. im glad i did, nice and easy to clean and still no corrosion

 

[TonyP]

Thinking about it though, those will cost me around £880 (500 + 15 + 80) refurbished or I can buy 4 new ones for £1280 (310 each), so only £360 more and if I sell my old ones on it probably comes to the same thing....

Hmm need to sleep on it

 

[silvercruiser]

For that money id go new. at least you know they wont have any buckles/dings etc

 

[clivehorridge]

Erm.... No car so no way yo get a ticket... However does getting laid count?

I'll say, from my experience they're both on a par

 

[TonyP]

For that money id go new. at least you know they wont have any buckles/dings etc

Agree, only advantage is if I powder coat the old ones I can go to a different colour.

Think my mind is made up, new alloys and new rubber... Hmm now which AT's to go with...

 

[clivehorridge]

To grease or not to grease...
Fwiw
The teacher from my car mechanic evening classes told me not to grease the studs because they can get too hot from the brakes and the grease would burn. So now I use the copper high temperature grease.

That can't be right, surely? If the studs are getting hot enough to burn grease, then what state are the wheel bearings going to be in? There's no sign of burning grease on my studs either. JMHO of course.

 

[clivehorridge]

Wow so Lucky!
In regards to Lubricating the studs , I was told never to do this as it lets the nuts go on much easier which will allow them to be over tightened even when using a preset rattle gun or when using a wheel spanner. Not sure on how a Tension wrench may be affected.

I can't buy this, sorry.

30 ft/lb is 30 ft/lb, if the threads are stiff, you'll only be getting 25 ft/lb, the other 5 will be trying to twist the stud, which it's not designed to do, and it will shear off in time.
JMHO of course.

 

[Shayne]

Reading the grease or not to grease comments i wonder if wd40 might actually be the ideal product for studs for all the reasons i don't buy it any more .

It's lubricating properties are short term because it's water based and so dries out very quickly , but it does act as a water repellent and leaves behind a light silicone residue which would i assume seal threads from the elements until the nut is removed again ?

 

[Gary820]

Close one and lucky!!

I was always taught not to grease studs/bolts for wheels but use a very light coat of oil if need to lubricate them.

 

[Dave2000]

I see both sides of the grease/no grease comments and there very valid thoughts behind them all however, IMO I say follow the manufacturer's guide. Let me throw this in the mix and I will use Clive's example which makes very good sense.

What if the manufacture decides that 25ft/lb is needed for 'x' bolt to clamp a wheel on, and research shows that 30ft/lb on clean DRY threads will (after losing some torque to thread resistance) leave the correct 25ft/lb.

This now means with WET (enter lube choice here) the wheel is exposed to a greater clamping force, now at 30ft/lb and beyond manufactuers spec. No science behind this guy's just a little deeper thought.

Regards

Dave

 

[flint]

Not too sure of accuracy, the table here gives comparisons, but presumably with brand new fastenings:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html