Is it OK to buy LC 100 with rust in the axles

[Shayne]

I have spoken to them Peter and they will do it for me at my own risk , their LR frames are braced on a jig for dipping .
I don't really think i have much to fear from warping with a short wheel base but i can find few happy reports from people who chose to paint the chassis after dipping .

 

[SafariTecPeter]

Shayne; As far as painting over galvanized goes, the pre-prep work is what is the "killer" The required primer is >3 times as expensive for primer suitable for galvanized material.
Speak to companies such as Norwegian JOTUN or German (?) Hempel INTERNATIONAL. They supply paint to ao offshore vessels & installations. I trust them to be able to come up with a suitable product for U too.
I have a few aquaintances who have sucessfully painted their galvanized frames. Unsure what products they used, nothing HighEnd AFAIK...

 

[Shayne]

Aye it can be done new galvanize it just a lot harder to paint than old . I was just sharing the cold dip idea as it seem to my uneducated mind commercially viable and cost effective solution for those already involved in dipping .

 

[SafariTecPeter]

As I wrote in a previouse reply Shane; I`d galvanize a frame if time & money where of no conserne.
All depending off course on how far gone the frame is.
It would in turn require a COMPLETE strip down, not pnly lifting off the body shell....
I am unsure if I`d bother spending seriouse money on primer & paint on a galvanized frame TBH....
If You scratch the frame to the extent that the paint goes, so will the galvanization eventually do too.
If You don`t like the shiny "new" frame, then spraying it with whatever wax / oil / underbodyprotection to shield it against road salt etc would also "hide" the silver shine
Just thinking out loud here

 

[frank rabbets]

One of the advantages of galvanising is that any missed areas of exposed steel are still protected due to the galvanic action between the zinc/steel and any corrosive fluid that covers the area. A battery is formed and the zinc is very slowly eaten away leaving the steel intact. Thick zinc will last indefinately on a road car even with salt.

Another advantage is that no preparation at all is required. The acid bath strips all rust and paint off.

If a painted surface is required etch primer must be used. Normal primer won't stick very well.

 

[Rarf]

@Rarf; So You are doing this on a commercial basis in Lithuania?

In the link You have provided I see some very questionable work being carried out.
Sandblasting frame with axle, brakes, engine & gearboxes apparently not removed nor covered up is not to my liking.
& btw; The frame did not look too bad to start off with.

For how many years had the car undergone periodical KROWN treatment?

No, I'm from Latvia!
Small, private business. I don't work on an assembly line basis, I do a job, that I like.

Technology over time are improved. And now I take out the engine and gearbox for easer sand blasting. (see other projects) No need to cover parts, after procedure sand may blow by air. They do not come there, where they do not have to be. When driving by car on gravel road, it also formed in the same dust..

The car was bought by a new owner, who said that the old car owner was processed with Krown approximately 2 - 3 years in a row.

 

[Rarf]

Rust is worst inside the box sections so the whole chassis needs immersing in hydrochloric acid to do properly.

It depends on each individual car.
Acid does not take a thick, layered rust. Of course we can do it, if the customer wants it.
Also Body cavities, the frame are protected with cavity wax.

 

[SafariTecPeter]

No, I'm from Latvia!

Off course, I apologize. My bad!

As for the dust ingression during or due to (sand) blasting, we will not see eye to eye on that matter I am afraid.

best of Luck with Your undertaking

 

[aeonking]

Can you share where you got it galvanized? Did they also do the acid dip to remove paint and rust?