Leaky seals or normal wear?

[StarCruiser]

Indeed. Though, is this not then an indication that my internal seals are intact and, well, sealing?

 

[Towpack]

On the air tightness front, there was a notable release of air on removing the breather, but as I say it wouldn't hold much pressure as the breather let go with me blowing through it.

So you did have a blocked breather then? Air obviously needs to flow freely both ways in and out of the diff casing. The only 'unknown' is how much pressure is actually needed to force oil and/or grease past the halfshaft seals. Even with new seals, IMO, it wouldn't be much. I agree with Chris on the airtightness of the hubs. Even the very best wiper seals will not be air tight. Neither the halfshaft or the wiper seals are pressure seals, hence the presence of the breather. JMO

 

[chapel gate]

As the axles have an oil retainer ring up near the seals, it's very hard to clean the axle tube out fully.

I thought that was to support the half shafts when they are pushed in. I had to remove one of mine when it came loose after a cvj let go.

I fill the knuckles 3/4 full per the fsm. Mine have always leaked pretty bad until i put the skf sleeve on the drivers side, worked a treat, will do the other side at some point.
As i see them they are a constant loss design, so there should be a smear of grease on the knuckles and need topping up at some point.

 

[Towpack]

Hate to say it but that's one thing LR's have over LC's in that you can replace the swivel housings if they gat badly corroded.

 

[chapel gate]

Has the moly shown signs of breaking down yet due to diff oil contamination? If so that discounts residue moly grease in the axle tube for me.

 

[chapel gate]

Hate to say it but that's one thing LR's have over LC's in that you can replace the swivel housings if they gat badly corroded.

Agreed, the knuckles can be bought but have to be welded on..

 

[Chris]

Neat being able to replace the knuckle ball but frankly not really necessary unless they are shot to bits. They are not a bearing part. They are just there for the wipers to work against. They aren't a contact part. Neat, clever, cool, but really ...

The metal ring inside the axle tube is an oil retaining ring to keep a puddle of oil against the seal. They're nothing to do with supporting the half shaft.

 

[chapel gate]

Neat being able to replace the knuckle ball but frankly not really necessary unless they are shot to bits. They are not a bearing part. They are just there for the wipers to work against. They aren't a contact part. Neat, clever, cool, but really ...

The metal ring inside the axle tube is an oil retaining ring to keep a puddle of oil against the seal. They're nothing to do with supporting the half shaft.

My mistake, i will now beat myself with a birch branch...

 

[Chris]

Not at all old chap. Not unless you enjoy that sort of thing. Speaking of which on my trip to Finland to see my Uncle, we had a sauna where we were expected to beat ourselves lightly with birch leaves. It was lovely. The aroma was quite superb.

Yes the metal ring is there to retain oil. It doesn't support the shaft. But you must be careful or you can easily knock it out of place. go on, ask me how I know

 

[chapel gate]

"Anyone got any ideas? Everything in bits here, so plenty to do until I come up with a solution. As far as I can see, it helps to support the shaft when you assemble the axle by keeping it off the inner oil seal. But when it's running, it's not a bearing surface, more of a limit / stop arrangement."

#passes chris the birch branch#

 

[Chris]

Well it's certainly somewhere you can rest the shaft as you slide it it so that you don't bugger up the new seal CG. Sure, but only really necessary on the long side of the diff. It can be a right pain getting the shaft located into the diff, I know and you can lever off the oil retainer ring if you you must. I have done rebuilds where the shaft has gone in, in a oner. But we did one at the last Lincomb where a dozen of us tying just couldn't get one to engage. It was bizarre. Handy having the retainer there so we could have a rest!

 

[chapel gate]

Well it's certainly somewhere you can rest the shaft as you slide it it so that you don't bugger up the new seal CG. Sure, but only really necessary on the long side of the diff. It can be a right pain getting the shaft located into the diff, I know and you can lever off the oil retainer ring if you you must. I have done rebuilds where the shaft has gone in, in a oner. But we did one at the last Lincomb where a dozen of us tying just couldn't get one to engage. It was bizarre. Handy having the retainer there so we could have a rest!

Can i have my birch branch back now?

 

[Chris]

No. It's nice and I have still to beat the children with it.

 

[chapel gate]

Lol..

 

[StarCruiser]

No. It's nice and I have still to beat the children with it.

If only to bring about the aroma of birch leaves within the Jerman household…

 

[StarCruiser]

I was beginning to think a couple of speedi sleeves applied to the half shafts wouldn't hurt when the time comes.
No idea yet if the oil is getting into the grease.

Regarding the breather, I would have thought it should only allow excess pressure to escape, not excess vacuum. After all you wouldn't want a rapidly cooling axle casing as in a river crossing, to take a deep breath on entry and duck water in? I think the breather is working fine. Non return valve with a little retention of pressure is what it seems.

 

[frank rabbets]

Another advantage of the Range Rover and Land Rover axles is that the hubs are full of EP 90 so non of this contamination takes place. Also the Kingpins last longer. In fact on the 7 LR's I had and 3 RR's I never had any front axle trouble. As for the spheres they have a flange with 6 or 7 bolts so you can change just with spanners. The spheres were chromed as you needed an oil tight seal. I'm not too sure about cutting one off and welding a new one on. Never seen that. You'd need a jig to get castor and camber correct.

The disadvantage is the spheres get corroded and leak but that takes a long time.

 

[frank rabbets]

Where is it called "oil retainer ring"? Perhaps it is in fact to stop you damaging the seal ?

 

[Towpack]

Another advantage of the Range Rover and Land Rover axles is that the hubs are full of EP 90 so non of this contamination takes place.

The EP oil in LR hubs was replaced years ago with a 'one shot' moly grease although it's more of the consistency of very thick oil rather than fluidly static grease. I put this in my Disco hubs as suggested by the parts guy at the local LR dealer when I was there buying parts and asked for some oil for the hubs.

Regarding the breather, I would have thought it should only allow excess pressure to escape, not excess vacuum. After all you wouldn't want a rapidly cooling axle casing as in a river crossing, to take a deep breath on entry and duck water in? I think the breather is working fine. Non return valve with a little retention of pressure is what it seems.

The diff /axle casing should ideally be at atmospheric pressure at all times.The breather must allow air back in to alleviate a vacuum, otherwise oil will be sucked into the diff casing and water into the hubs past the wiper seals.

 

[StarCruiser]

he diff /axle casing should ideally be at atmospheric pressure at all times.The breather must allow air back in to alleviate a vacuum, otherwise oil will be sucked into the diff casing and water into the hubs past the wiper seals.

Makes perfect sense TP. This is how it is now. I didn't have any water present in the knuckles or axle casing so something must have been right. However this may go some way to explain why the grease from the knuckles got into the diff oil.