My HDJ80 Overland Build

[clivehorridge]

Thanks all.

Chris - Julian recommended Pedders with a view that ill likely be having to upgrade before long due to the extra weight - so the Pedders will probably be for sale too before long. And yes an 80 in the best colour

Clive- yes I have very good 2nd and 3rd row seats (leather) and refurbished alloys with nearly new Cooper Tyres. Let me know if you are interested

I would be interested Mike, and thanks for the offer, but transport is my enemy being so far from the UK.

......unless you’re passing by, perchance

No doubt you'll be getting some offers on here...

Thanks again

 

[Michael Clark]

My next challenge!

Anyone retrofitted a sub tank before? Best to run as a tank to fill the main tank or just as a secondary tank direct to the engine?

 

[Chris]

Yes a few have. I fitted mine as a totally independent tank with shard filler neck and changeover switch. Hardest bit is fitting the tank straps!

 

[Michael Clark]

Whats the consensus on setup. I guess if you use it as a filler tank, you can drain it dry into the main tank. As a subsidary tank, you dont really want to drain the main tank dry before switching over as air will get into the system?

 

[Olazz]

Hi Mike,

My 2c worth. I've a dual filler neck with 2 separate tanks/feeds to engine in case the main tank gets holed/damaged I've got redundancy. I switch tanks when the reserve light comes on. Done that several times now and never had issues. I also have a manual emergency by pass system that will allow me to transfer fuel between either tank if necessary. I guess its what ever you feel comfortable with and works for you.

On our travels, I usually only use the auxiliary tank and keep the OEM 90l always full.. Only ever use that in an emergency if we cant find fuel.

 

[Michael Clark]

Ah, yes thats a good idea. Something I hadnt thought about (even though Id thought about it regards water tanks!)

Did you use the factory sub tank transfer pump as a lift pump to the engine pump.

And how does your manual bypass system work.

 

[Olazz]

Nope, installed a Walbro pusher to engine.

Fuel transfer via 2 Jabsco self-primers between tanks. Valves are always closed between tanks. If needed open valve and switch on relevant pump 1 or 2. I know it's overkill, but didn't want to have the issues I've seen many many times in the bush. Luckily I've never needed to use them.

Have come close to running out of fuel once, in Mozambique. The five cities we tried to get diesel had none. Eventually decided to cut to Malawi border. Max range is 1600kms and we had done 1520kms

 

[nick_the_fish]

I'm with Chris and Olazz. 2 tanks basically independent of each other in case of hole/ bad fuel fill etc. I can't pump from one tank to the other on mine. Probably useful to have but not necessary if you don't.

You might want to think about using a toggle switch/ carling switch to switch between tanks. I've got the standard Toyota push one and can never seem to figure out which tank i'm running from (doesn't help that my sender unit is buggered on the sub-tank of course)...



... or that i'm a moron

 

[Chris]

Exactly what they both said. I have the Walbro too so I can pump one tank to another if necessary but also I can pump into a can or someone else's vehicle with a hose. I too run the sub first to lighten the back end. Effectively my main tank becomes the reserve. Sounds odd, but when fuel is plentiful, I never pass by with a nearly empty rear tank. Fill 'em up.

 

[chapel gate]

ive fitted a few full oem sub tanks set ups. over the years ive brought in about 20 full kits, ive got every schematic Toyota ever published on the subject. im pretty familiar with the system on the 80..
as you have the diesel version I would do it as Toyota intended. Im running too much fuel at the moment and the injector pump has no problem keeping up.
you have all of the main components its now a matter of bringing them all together.

 

[dyladams]

I just finished a 5500mile road trip in South Africa with a in line aux tank.

Simply put, we filled up the aux tank and that flowed into the main.

We did have a couple of problems along the trip in that we believed that there was an airlock / blockage between the 2 tanks and thus we were not able to fill up as connection between tanks was blocked.

On further inspection I noted that my friend had installed an in line filter. This had some advantages and disadvantages in that any reach rubbish was filtered between the 2 tanks and thus did not make it to the engine bay. But I suspect that an air pocket was created in the filter.

I am going to follow with interest as a sub tank is one item that’s next on my shopping list.

 

[GeekOKent]

I'm with Chris and Olazz. 2 tanks basically independent of each other in case of hole/ bad fuel fill etc. I can't pump from one tank to the other on mine. Probably useful to have but not necessary if you don't.

You might want to think about using a toggle switch/ carling switch to switch between tanks. I've got the standard Toyota push one and can never seem to figure out which tank i'm running from (doesn't help that my sender unit is buggered on the sub-tank of course)...



... or that i'm a moron

On my 105, a 'sub' light comes on when i switch to the smaller sub tank.

 

[Michael Clark]

Thanks for all the advice. I think the full OEM Toyota setup includes an ECU or control unit or something?

I think maybe a good quality pump to supply the engine direct is probably a good answer.

Did people fit a flow solenoid when switching between tanks/pumps? i.e switch on reserve tank and it shuts off the main supply with a valve

Also what level gauge works with the OEM level sender in the sub tank?

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Thanks for all the advice. I think the full OEM Toyota setup includes an ECU or control unit or something?

I think maybe a good quality pump to supply the engine direct is probably a good answer.

Did people fit a flow solenoid when switching between tanks/pumps? i.e switch on reserve tank and it shuts off the main supply with a valve

Also what level gauge works with the OEM level sender in the sub tank?

Micheal Kinda think Chapel gate would know as he sells them. For me having an home made fuel tank and a VDO fuel gauge I've learned that the fuel sender level unit has to match the fuel gauge you using. This is determined by the ohms the sender you have already got installed in the tank.

 

[Michael Clark]

Some progress. I have a hole in the roof! Will make the frame next week for roof tent access.

Deciding about water storage. I found a 70L tank and 20L Calorifier which will fit nicely behind the seats and easy to secure. Can anyone see any issues with this location? Obviously the calorifier is located right next to the pipework for the heater so easy to install. The picture shows my makeshift water tank (UPS box) and calorifier (Autosmart container lol)

 

[Bat21]

Some great info here... will follow this one with interest.

 

[Olazz]

How do you intend to sort the water filler? From an open door; through the window? How will you drain the tank?

 

[Michael Clark]

Drain on the left end of the tank and empty through door (with hose). Fill through the open door unless I have room to put a filler in.

I feel its a good location due to weight distribution. I already have a 50L sub tank and spare wheel hanging off the back so keen to keep other heavy stuff as central as possible.

 

[rob rule]

if I may respectfully add 2 c ....dump the Water heater - you are planning an African trip. Cannot comment on European overlanding requirements. Can always revert to black plastic solar heated shower bag, if and when necessary.

 

[Michael Clark]

Exactly, who knows where we will take it after Africa!