New LC 70

[Edpickett]

Hi All,
I've just bought a seriously cool low mileage 95 70 series with the KZT 3ltr engine. Its a very tidy example with 70k.

I had to sell my 98 4.2 tdi amazon recently which I was very attached to. Some of the guys helped me fix a diff fault (thanks to all).. Amazing collection of knowledge!

The new truck is so cool! I prefer it hands down... What a piece of kit and the throaty military sounding turbo is cool too! Loads of power. Interior velour is a little trans pennine express but immaculate.

What a find!!! I will post some photos shortly.

It does have a few bits to fix.

The main one is the offside front calliper is seized open and I feel the discs are looking very discoloured. From what I can see from the service book and mots it has sat for 1-2 years as it only amassed 57 miles so this might be why the calliper is not working?

The oil pressure sits just below 1/2 say 4 o-clock and travels up to 2.30 at 2.5-3k revs, hopefully a good oil change and filter might help. I doesn't seem to go above the symbol next to the scale, I'm told this is average?

I also experienced the oil level light coming on when the level was down say 150ml-ish on a downward slope, how sensitive...?

Roof liner needs taking down and tightening as it resembles a tent.

Cam belt was done at 41k and adjusted at 62. I'm going o take the cover off the creak for wear or should I just change it? It looks quite simple and not too expensive for the tensioner and kit.!

Other than that is fully operational and every thing works, and lights up.

I plan to get it wax oiled next month as the underside is immaculate... I'm still in shock! A full rear tank guard too! The only rust is the front steering arm and the exhaust in the wheel arch!

Does anyone have an electronic copy of the FSM?

Many thanks.

 

[Ben]

Congratulations on your new truck, sounds like youve bought a great example.

Interesting that you prefer it your 80.

If you can afford to, I'd replace all the brakes and also the cambelt.

The cambelt is fairly easy to change.

I've got copies of the FSM I can send you. PM me your email address and I will send them across.

One last thing..........................................

We need

 

[hairyguy4]

a kzj70 owner here, well done on your purchase B) i have to agree on prefering the 70, i've owned a hdj80 at the same time as my 70 and eventually sold it as i prefer the 70

 

[Mark N]

congratulations on your purchase - sounds like a great truck...pictures? dont worry about the oil level light a lot of them do that - it could just be that the connector onto the sensor has moisture in it but more likely that its just the way it is. Mine comes on the same as yours and I've given up and just ignore it. Roger on here has gone to the length of removing it and lengthened the arm to make it less sensitive - I might do that one day but for now just check my oil level manually which you should do anyway.

Regards
Mark

 

[Edpickett]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2e9asysqj4564p9/Photo 07-11-2012 09 52 47.jpg

 

[Edpickett]

Whoops,

Tried to upload some photos and it didn't work!

I'll try again!

Ed

 

[Edpickett]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u6sbjtzw26hjt8z/Photo 07-11-2012 09 53 08.jpg

Maybe this will work?

 

[Edpickett]

Maybe this will work:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u6sbjtzw26hjt8z/Photo 07-11-2012 09 53 08.jpg

 

[Shaun]

Nice Landcruiser ! Gotta be the cleanest ive ever seen ! Look forward to seeing more pics.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

I suggest you carry out a full, methodical service. Change all the oils---engine, g/box, t/box and both diffs---filters---engine oil and air plus fuel---and probably brake and clutch fluid. If they are at all cloudy or dark change them. The caliper needs checking plus a good clean of the rear brakes.

The engine oil level light is always set very close to the full mark. Drop 10-15mm and it will come on. The oil pressure sounds OK. Check again after the oil and filter change.

I prefer the use of fully synthetic oil all round but that choice is yours. It will certainly improve the lightness of the change in the g/box.

Roger

 

[lc27]

woah!! thats looks neat and nice. More picsss. What are the plans for it? are you going to Benrecord the project? jeje. more history about it, where did you find it etc etc. Enjoy it and great find

 

[Edpickett]

Hi, it was a lucky find. In the right place at the right time!!!

Well it's not perfect I've found a little rust patch where the body just above the running board meets the rear wheel arch. Has anyone found this? I gave it a good tap still seems solid?

It did 8k each year for the fist 2 then 2 to 3k PA with a 53 mile total between 2009 and mid 2012.

All the tyres are in really good nick they are Goodyear Grand Treck's they look competent. Is there anything like armourall which helps protect the tyre walls?

It's got character. Im getting he underside cleaned thoroughly and wax oiled by a pro in Smallwood Cheshire. Then I want to work on a few bits then just enjoy it!

I'm starting on the basics this weekend, oil, coolant flush, air, fuel and oil filter supplied with a good discount from Simon and I've ordered some new discs , pads and clips/shims from Milner

What is the best oil or oil spray should I use to clean the engine bay and engine?

Does anybody know the best was to refurbish the roof liner? I was thinking of carefully remove it and re-stretch it . What kind of stay adhesive should I use which won't 'A' attack the fabric and 'B' bleed through?

Ed.

 

[Edpickett]

I changed the oil, filter and fuel filter over the weekend.
Fuel filter was seriously rusty. I was thinking of trying o remove the drain plug a flushing the tank rather than removing it.
Oil pressure seems to be the same as before.

I also changed the brake fluid as it was like black.... I couldn't get Dot3 so I used Dot4 which I was told was absolutely fine?? Is this o.k ?
Is it best to bleed the furthest first and should I do it with the engine running or off? I tried both the brakes work but feel a little soft!

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Dot 4 is the correct brake fluid to use. Engine off for bleeding. Soft may indicate that you have air in system. There is a bit of an art in brake bleeding and normally requires two people to do it.

Start at n/side rear.

Undo and then lightly tighten bleed nipple. This is to make certain you can undo it. Remove top to master cylinder. Fit clear plastic tube to nipple and place other end in some container. If possible, dip end of tube in a liquid. This helps to stop air being sucked back up into system. You can use water if necessary as you don't reuse brake fluid. Slacken nipple 1/4 turn and tell assistant to "push".

THIS IS IMPORTANT. Assistant must push gently all the way to the bottom and hold it there. When at the bottom he says "down". You close nipple and say "release". He allows pedal to return GENTLY to the top. Continue until brake fluid in reservoir near to bottom. Refill with new fluid, adding it slowly, so as not to mix too much with old fluid. Continue to bleed until new fluid comes through. Then do o/side rear followed by fronts.

As I have an air line system in my garage, I do the following. Soak paintwork under master cylinder with water. Remove small screw that holds reservoir to master cylinder body and pull off reservoir. Put cloth or similar under reservoir to hold fluid and dump same in suitable container. Wash reservoir in hot soapy water and dry with air line. When certain it is dry, replace using brake assembly grease on seals. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid and bleed system.

If the brakes still feel spongy after this, you need to isolate the brakes by brake hose clamps , one on the back between pressure reducing valve and axle and one on the front where hose goes onto the axle. Brake pedal should now feel solid. If yes, remove rear clamp and try again. Brake pedal should be hard but move an amount.Back brakes are OK. Put back clamp on rear and remove front. If brakes soggy, trouble is front caliper/s. If pedal still soggy with both clamps in place, suspect master cylinder. After long use with contaminated fluid, the water in the fluid, it's hygroscopic ie it attracts water, will rust that part of the cylinder bore that the piston normally doesn't reach. When you bleed the system, you push the piston seal onto the rusty surface and damage, and leakage can result.

Roger

 

[Edpickett]

Thanks Rodger,

I think I see where I went wrong.. I had my assistant (the mrs) push the pedal down, hold it down, then I quarter turned the bleed nipple once the fluid stopped moving i closed the nipple until the pedal was depressed again. Is this not as good as depressing the pedal with the nipple open?

I will try your initial method first and report back.

Thanks again

Ed