New member, starting refurbishment of 1980 BJ44

thor1958

New Member
I am in myanmar
May 3, 2020
25
13
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Hi all

This is Thor from Myanmar. I have owned a 1980 model BJ44 (diesel) since 2014 and driven in all over Myanmar (Burma), where I live.
It was in decent condition and have never failed me. I decided to to give it a good upgrade a couple of years ago and it ended in complete disaster.
I was too busy with work and kind of forgot about it. I went to collect the car today, since workshop owner had run away and left the car outside in the rain and dust.
I could hardly recognize the car. It used to look pretty sharp and now it looked like it was ready for the junkyard (see before and after pictures).


Anyways, I have now found a reliable and good workshop with an enthusiast that surely will do good work. Since the previous madman had lost lost of parts, I need to buy a lot of new things, ranging from bumpers with winch to rain gutters and full new electrical cabling, new headlights, blinkers, complete new interior etc.

I found a site called Coolcruisers and they seems to keep a lot of parts and cool new items.

But, here is my problem.....
When ordering the parts, I see that there is a change of model in 1980. Up to 07/80 and from 08/80.
When I look at the windows and seat belts on my car, it says 1980, but if before or after the above model change, I do not know.
Not so good if I order parts for the wrong year model.

The car has power steering , original A/C (its imported from Japan and is RHD) . I am also a bit confused about the engine. Looks like a 3.0 B engine and not a 3.2l 2B engine.
I might be wrong, but maybe anyone can tell from the attached pictures. It has Burmese registration and a Burmese constructed chassis number. Not sure where I can find the original chassis number, since that might help me to find out if before or after 08/80.

I had the engine out and did a major overhaul, so it starts and runs perfect. The body have no rust , except for the rain gutters that gave in due t heavy loads on the roof racks and bumpy roads. The car has been all over Burma in worst conditions imaginable and never failed me, so it deserves a proper upgrade now. I will take off the cabin and do it from frame up.
 

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Rodger

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Hi and welcome,

You have been through some trauma with your 44 but having found a good, enthusiastic workshop, things should be on the mend. BJ44s were only built for the Japanese market.
I'll try to address you questions:
Engine: All BJ44s came with a 2B. Find the engine number on the side of the block (possibly behind the EDIC unit) and that should tell you the model - put number into Toyota engine number search.
ID & change: I haven't found any significant info relating to the change but your original photo shows a square cornered bezel which in itself indicates post 1980 - the year it changed and with it the front valence dimensions. That may be the extent of the changes. The Burma registration/chassis numbering doesn't help but dies it have a VIN plate on the bulkhead or traces of the original number on the RH chassis leg near where you have shown the new number?
Parts: CCOT are good and so are Spectre OR (www:sor.com). There are others but bj44s are reasonably rare and SOR have parts diagrams and most parts are interchangeable between 40 series models of the same years, obviously allowing for model differences.
Interesting that it has the very early bonnet chrome strip but then again that could be because it was Japan market only.

The more information (and photos) you can post the more help we can be. I have attached the BJ44 production info but I somehow suspect you have already seen this. Interesting that it shows a soft top as other info implies that all 44s were
hard top (possibly removable).


FJ BJ44 Bible.jpg


Regards,

Rodger
 
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jibberjabber

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Hi and welcome,

You have been through some trauma with your 44 but having found a good, enthusiastic workshop, things should be on the mend. BJ44s were only built for the Japanese market.
I'll try to address you questions:
Engine: All BJ44s came with a 2B. Find the engine number on the side of the block (possibly behind the EDIC unit) and that should tell you the model - put number into Toyota engine number search.
ID & change: I haven't found any significant info relating to the change but your original photo shows a square cornered bezel which in itself indicates post 1980 - the year it changed and with it the front valence dimensions. That may be the extent of the changes. The Burma registration/chassis numbering doesn't help but dies it have a VIN plate on the bulkhead or traces of the original number on the RH chassis leg near where you have shown the new number?
Parts: CCOT are good and so are Spectre OR (www:sor.com). There are others but bj44s are reasonably rare and SOR have parts diagrams and most parts are interchangeable between 40 series models of the same years, obviously allowing for model differences.
Interesting that it has the very early bonnet chrome strip but then again that could be because it was Japan market only.

The more information (and photos) you can post the more help we can be. I have attached the BJ44 production info but I somehow suspect you have already seen this. Interesting that it shows a soft top as other info implies that all 44s were
hard top (possibly removable).


View attachment 165448

Regards,

Rodger
:text-goodpost:
 
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thor1958

New Member
I am in myanmar
May 3, 2020
25
13
3
Hi and welcome,

You have been through some trauma with your 44 but having found a good, enthusiastic workshop, things should be on the mend. BJ44s were only built for the Japanese market.
I'll try to address you questions:
Engine: All BJ44s came with a 2B. Find the engine number on the side of the block (possibly behind the EDIC unit) and that should tell you the model - put number into Toyota engine number search.
ID & change: I haven't found any significant info relating to the change but your original photo shows a square cornered bezel which in itself indicates post 1980 - the year it changed and with it the front valence dimensions. That may be the extent of the changes. The Burma registration/chassis numbering doesn't help but dies it have a VIN plate on the bulkhead or traces of the original number on the RH chassis leg near where you have shown the new number?
Parts: CCOT are good and so are Spectre OR (www:sor.com). There are others but bj44s are reasonably rare and SOR have parts diagrams and most parts are interchangeable between 40 series models of the same years, obviously allowing for model differences.
Interesting that it has the very early bonnet chrome strip but then again that could be because it was Japan market only.

The more information (and photos) you can post the more help we can be. I have attached the BJ44 production info but I somehow suspect you have already seen this. Interesting that it shows a soft top as other info implies that all 44s were
hard top (possibly removable).


View attachment 165448

Regards,

Rodger
Hi Rodger

Thanks a lot for very valuable information. I will follow-up on the leads you gave me and try to dig up the original chassis number, engine number etc.
I was told that it has an B engine, but it might as well be 2B. With above serial number range, I should be fully able to pinpoint the correct side of 08/80.
Very helpful and thank you :)
I will post pictures as it progresses and luckily cost of manhours are quite affordable here in Myanmar. The complete process of stripping it completely down to the frame, dismantling every part of it and then doing a proper job from there up, ending with a proper body paint job, was quoted at 4k USD. So, I guess most of my budget will be related to the parts I buy from overseas. Apart from frame, body and engine, I will replace just about all with new fresh parts (steering. suspension, electrical wiring and so on. Will keep the matte black paint and pit some effort into giving it a great "dark and mean look".
I will also add some camping features, since Burma have some incredible remote and exciting places where there are no facilities whatsoever.
Roads here are treacherous and in December last year, I ended up in a ravine/dry river bed with my 2019 Ford Raptor. A short flight and then 60 to 0 in a split second. Car was totaled and beyond repair, but I did not get a single scratch apart from black and blue all over chest and hips from the seatbelt. All 6 airbags blew and some experience for sure. So, soon I will be driving along nice and slow with my good old BJ and no more road racing for now.
 
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Rodger

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That was some accident with your Raptor but glad you are ok.

Been thinking about the question of pre or post 8/80....
The changes took place across the whole range of the 40 series and the visual indicator was the revised shape of the bezel and yous is the later shape so I think your truck is post 8/80.
Although there are variations between models and years there were only two major change years 74/75 and 79/80. Obviously the first change year does not apply but the second does and as the bezels are not interchangable - that is a pre 79 round bezel will not fit a post 80 front panel as the headlights are a bit farther apart on the later models. The outer dimensions of the valence are the same but the headlight cups are positioned differently.
Therefore I think that your truck is post 8/80 as to change the valence and bezel would be a pointless exercise (and costly) on a pre 7/80 model.

I will follow the rebuild with interest and when you find some numbers we should be able to confirm the year.

Regards,

Rodger
 
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thor1958

New Member
I am in myanmar
May 3, 2020
25
13
3
Thanks Roger. Appreciate the input and the workshop manager is now looking for chassi numbers.
Its being stripped down. He started to dismantle yesterday and as you can see from attached, there is progress.
I will be getting pictures every day at 6pm. This guy seems to love what he is doing, so good for my good old car.
When checking for parts at CCOT and Spectre OR the pre or post 08/80 parts are different, so I should be able to identify if current parts on the car indicates that it is pre or post.
 

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thor1958

New Member
I am in myanmar
May 3, 2020
25
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3
Hmmm..... Not so sure anymore about my Landcruiser in terms of model, year, engine etc.
I finally found my owner book (title) and lots of conflicting information. I also took a trip down to the workshop to get some pictures.

The Burmese Owner book have the following information (The Burmese also made their own chassis numbers for some reason up to 2012, so some or one of the numbers can be related to this).

Imported from Japan 09/2010.
Registered on Mandalay license plates (5C-1173)
VIN number 1 ? : F-1510-M1 (It is imprinted on the main frame above/behind the left rear wheel).
VIN number 2 ? : 90J0049. Imprinted on the right side frame in front of the right wheel.

Engine number: 0051182, but looks like it has been crossed out with a pen in the owner book and a signature next to it saying 02/2015
Engine number ? : 0534802 - also listed in the ownber book and a date next to it (09/2016).

On the engine block there is also a large number: 11411-56060

So, it looks like it had the engine swapped from engine no 0051182 to 0534802.

The owner book further says it is Engine: Toyota B, Gearbox: Toyota B (5F+IR) D/C
Model : Toyota Landcruiser FJ Banjo FF

Further, the car have a foot pedal for the hand brake, not between the seats.

Have owner the car since 2014 and I now suspect that a workshop swapped engine in it in 2015, without telling me.
The previous owner have many of these cars in his workshop and I remember I did have some minor engine problems, so maybe he found it more easy to swap the engine.

Maybe the attached pictures can shed some light on this ?

Is is pre or post 08/80 and what engine is this. B or 2B ?
 

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Rodger

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Hi,
Thanks for the information.
From some of the numbers I have discovered the following for you:
Vin 2 : 90J0049 = entering 'BJ44-90J0049' into the ID software tells me that your truck is:
BJ44V (V = hard top), production date = 09/82 and that it is either a KCY or a KCMY.
KCY = Japan, van, 2B, 4F (4 on the floor) 50K (500 kilos load capacity) 06s (6 seater)
KCMY = Japan, van, 2B, 4F, 35K (350 kilos load capacity) 05s (5 seater)

11411-56060 is the block casting number and Toyota do not release those numbers but the 114xx-560x0 indicate that this is in the B series castings so all is not lost...

On the left side of the block there will be a letter B or 2B in the casting, as per the photo below.
OilSqirtersB.JPG


Then to establish which engine is actually fitted - find the engine number plate as per the diagram below. You may need to use some light oil to remove the dust and grim from the numbers.
550195-33796fd03a991246e25cbbf1ab6910de.jpg


Hopefully this gets you a bit nearer to knowing what you actually have. And the number of seats that it had when you first got it will tell you its model designation - KCY or KCMY.
The aircon outlet looks to be period correct.

Regards,

Rodger
 
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thor1958

New Member
I am in myanmar
May 3, 2020
25
13
3
Hi Rodger

Amazing.... I believed I had a 1980 and its actually a 09/82. Really good to know, since I now can get all the correct parts for the post 08/80 model.
Thanks a lot for doing the research :)
Have started to compile a long list of items needed for the refurbishment. Body coming off today, so I can get a better look at the engine, to see if B or 2B.

The electrical cabling is in a sad state and I have decided to replace all of it. I see that there is a bundle for sale by someone called JT Outfitters, buyt they recommend to change the steering column to GM IDIDIT. Makes it more easy and plug and play.....
My steering have been the most unsafe part of the car. They keep doing something at the workshop and after a few weeks, bang and back to half a turn before responding. The price of a new steering control box is quite expensive compared to other parts, so maybe better to get a whole column setup ?
I am refurbishing the car for more comfort, safety and looks, so not so important to keep it 100% original. Will however preserve and keep all the old parts in case someone takes over and want to bring it to original state.

Any recommendation to a good 4" lift package. It is lifted now in a very amateurish way, horrible shocks and act like Skippy the Bush Kangaroo, so I need to something done here.

The work will start in the frame today, as well as looking at the wheel and brake systems to see what needs changing. I guess a good idea is to replace all seals, bearings etc. Just to be on the safe side.
 

Rodger

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New wiring loom packages are hard to come by and the JT one may be the best but make sure that they appreciate that the 44 is longer than the stock 40 (you may have to use a W/loom for a 45 and hide the excess lenght to the rear). I have no experience with the GM column but your problem sounds like the needles have fallen out of one of the cups on the rag joint and/or the centre arm bracket assembly has excessive wear. [ The rag joint is the first joint on the column near the bulkhead in the engine bay and the CBA is the unit at the front just ahead of the radiator]. Search the net for the GM Steering before commiting to it and if it includes the steering box make sure that it is a RHD one. Also check/renew the steering damper and, if fitted, the panhard rod bushes. Also check the wheel bearings as the rims you have carry a lot of offset which make for excessive wear.

The lift looks to be employing the stock shocks which will have significantly reduced their effectiveness and the hangers look to be lightweight. Both will lead to sloppy suspension. Renew all the suspension rubbers, correct lenght shocks and quality hangers and when fitted align the suspension including the X (front right to rear left and vice versa). Most times poor suspension performance is down to worn or incorrect parts which will give the Skippy performnce. I don't see any anti roll bars in the photos, which is fine (mine 40 doesn't have either front or rear AR bars fitted) but it does put extra stress on the spring and hanger bushes so use heavy duty hangers and quality bushes but you do get increased articulation without them.

The truck looks to be lifted already, is that a 2.5 inch or 4 inch lift? Old Man Emu has a good reputation but I have never used it. The higher the lift, the more stress the body movement exerts on the suspension. I used poly bushes - harder wearing - but they squeak, so when they need renewing I shall go back to heavy duty rubber.

Just a thought: If your truck is a KCY (6 seats & 500 kgs capacity) whether the rear springs are too stiff or indeed with the existing lift if the rear shocks are stretched beyond their optimum operating perametres. Looking at the 4th photo in your original post, the truck does not appear to have the saggy back end which plagues many 40s and that suggests that it was the higher weight capacity and those rear springs will be stiffer with not as much travel and the shock will have travel and pressure to match but the lift may well have taken the shocks out of their range. The shocks stop the rebound effect from the spring movement.... better known as Skippy the Kangaroo!

I am enjoying the photos, keep them coming.

Regards,

Rodger
 
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thor1958

New Member
I am in myanmar
May 3, 2020
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They had to wait for another guy to help taking off the body, so postponed today. They continued to remove paint and other parts.
The car has been lifted, but does not look too proper done to me. It's actually quite tall, so guess 4" or something. It is a bit down at the rear, so difficult to adjust the headlights. Its also sagging a bit to one side, which I understand is easy to fix by using a leveler block on the sagging side.

Good point about the cables, they might be too short and will check that. Since I am not very skilled in the process I have started, I have started to build a list of parts from the two websites recommended and doing this on what I believe is needed. All new weatherstrips for windows and doors, new rain gutter, new headlights, blinkers, dashboard gauges, all new link arms and bushings, wheel/brakes and clutch overhaul parts , new bolts and nut and screws all over, new door covers etc....

Since driving a lot and roads especially up north are more suited for oxcarts than cars, I need this thing to be lifted enough, but hopefully still comfortable.
Rainy season has heavy rain for 6 months and roads are very muddy and river/road crossings quite deep.
 

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Rodger

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Progresss indeed...

Considering the 6 months a year rain and mud, the lack of rust is quite amazing. I get some idea of the extreme conditions from watching Rain Forest Rally videos over the years, although I appreciate that they are mostly from Malaysia and not Maynmar.

Regards,

Rodger
 

Rodger

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No sign of the Vin plate on the bulkhead, or even where it would have been. So I guess it is down you remembering if, when you got it, whether it had 5 or 6 seats. If it didn't then look to see if the front passenger seat has the mounting points for a single or double seat. With the handbrake being foot operated it would perhps imply that it had a double front passenger seat thereby making it a KCY and 500kgs capacity.

I know photos can be deceptive but the body looks really good.

Regards,

Rodger
 
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thor1958

New Member
I am in myanmar
May 3, 2020
25
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Hi Rodger
I have attached some pictures. Engine says B, so a B engine it is. I have actually found the original 2B engine with the previous owner.
It is however not in same good shape as my B engine, which starts almost before I touch the key and use amazingly little fuel,
Looks like the mounting points are for 2 x single seats.

The electrician and guy who will remove the engine is coming on Saturday.

Thanks for you support :)
 

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Rodger

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Your truck looks really good with virtually no rust or oil leaks. Everything should clean up well.

Five seats would imply that it is a KCMY (350kgs capacity).

With luck you may find a part number on the rear springs and as the rear springs on the KCMY differ in capacity from the KCY, although they are both 7 leafs, there is a $400 difference in the price of replacement Toyota parts. Not that you need to replace them by the look if them but it just may conform the model designation.

Regards,

Rodger
 

thor1958

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I am in myanmar
May 3, 2020
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Reassuring to see that vitually no rust. One of the front fenders had some, so I might buy a replacement or have it made.
Will check the springs for serial numbers or markings.
Engine now taken off and being cleaned and detailed. Frame will be done with correct preps, muliti layers of varioys coatings etc. Then check and overhaul, wheels, bearings, brakes, new shock dampers etc. Found a suitable set of Iron Man Foam cell, just around the corner. Very popular here...

Attached some photos of the fender that is in not so good shape.
 

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Rodger

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In your post of May 8th you mentioned that the truck had a slightly soggy bottom and the headlights were difficult to adjust but looking at the first two photos in your latest post I think I can see why ....
The first cross member that holds the front valance has had an extra bar welded on and that raises the front.
Perhaps in the past the extra weight of the roof rack and what ever else has been hung on the back has crushed the body mounts and meant that the front panels would not line up (wings. bonnet etc) so to get the front aligned the bar was inserted. Assuming that you are getting new body mounting rubbers then that extra front bar will need to be removedto get everything aligned.
The front wing doesn't look too bad but I guess the most difficult part would be the restoration of the 4 flag pole holes, unless you intend to remount it. I have certainly seen worse condition wings restored.
I didn't quite understand the photo of the new shocks with the coil inserted... Are you intending to change to coils? If so that is a major modification that needs some very accurate measurements and welding for both cups and radius arms.
Overall your truck looks pretty good. Excellent.

regards,

Rodger
 

thor1958

New Member
I am in myanmar
May 3, 2020
25
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3
HI Rodger
The picture of the Iron man shocks was from another car there and not the plan.
I got a price for making new fenders and also found a used one in slightly better condition. But, for the heck of it I will let them make 2 new, to see how that goes. Price is only 140 USD per fender. They will use hot roll plate and no cure no pay....

Very good to observe the reason for the headlights pointing skywards. I will let the workshop know right away, by sharing your feedback above. Ecellent :).

Here are some more pictures from the progress....
 

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