New member with some Q's

[joshg]

Good Morning all, I have just purchased a 2001 Colorado VX D4D and I'm so glad to have another Cruiser again my previous one was a 96 Colorado which I replaced with a Navara Shocked but I won't bore you with the gory details of that!
I have a few little niggles that can probably only be expected with a vehicle of this age, firstly there seems to be a short on the stereo that only shows itself when going around right hand bends Question the whole unit is a bit tired and the display is hard to see in normal daylight. I assume this is the standard Sony unit that came with it from new as all the others I looked at had the same one, what can I replace this with that will be compatible with the cd changer under the passenger seat?
Secondly the automatic aerial has packed up and will not go up and down although it sounds as if it is working ok and should be, is this an easy fix and how difficult is it to get to the thing to replace if needed?
I also have a slight knock which seems to be coming from the front end which can be heard when going over sharp bumps and when going over rough terrain, any ideas?
Hopefully someone on here will be able to answer these questions, also is there anything I need to know that is a potential problem with this model?

Many thanks in advance.
Josh

 

[Graham]

Hi Josh,

Good to have you on board

The short in the audio ? well, that could really be loads of things.
When you turn right, does it actually blow the fuse each time? or is the audio just cutting out?
.
I think a lot of owners take the easy option, and remove the CD stack, and simply go to MP3
Just so much availability now for audio, and mapping combined, really there is so much, and if my current audio pack up, or develops a fault, I for one, certainly won't think twice about replacing it with an up to date single or double did unit.
Complete with line in, USB, SD, not even sure I would bother having a media disc as an option for audio again.

The auto aerial, I did read of members replacing the aerial part, and still using the original "drive up and down " motor.
Sorry, I cant help on that score.

Problems with the early D4-d, well, I did hear about another chap who bought an early D4-d engined 90/95 series (Colorado) and he took it back, because of engine coolant water in the auto box.
He got his money back, after almost having the police attend, for fear of disturbing the peace.
But, fair dues to the guy, he kept at them and got his money back - Calling Dr Sidderley, Dr Sidderley,

So my suggestion to you is to check the auto box oil cooler, which may or may not be the older type, that is integral with the engines main cooling radiator.
On the early ones, and certainly the D$-d predecessors, there were problems a many.
But on the LC3 - LC5 (The J120 platform) this combined auto box oil cooler and engine water cooling seems to have been individualised, thus, not being able to contaminate one another.
Invariably, it is the hot, higher pressure engine cooling water that ends up in the auto box, with disastrous results.

Check the nearside front brake caliper for even pressure to both brake pads.
It is known that the pistons do stick, and cause uneven wear.
Probably because of the additional rain water normally found on the left side of the left side of the road.



Any way, I am sure others will chip in now.

Gra.

 

[stu-pid]

The knock at the front end could be one of the many bushings: steering rack bushings, anti roll bar bushings/droplinks, shock bushings, suspension arm bushings. Best to get underneath and see if any of them are obviously worn. Check the steering & suspension arm ball joints as well.

 

[Ducktape]

Hi and welcome!

I have an '02 D4D and you will not be dissapointed. There are loads of posts of the few issues you have to look at with these. Advice above is good. My radio head unit also packed up and I simply replaced it with a ne Sony model with all the modern gadgets and although it is compatible with the CD Changer, why use it if you can play MP3 via USB or IPOD? Antenna is a cheap and easy fix as well.

If you have an auto, check out the posts about oil coolers and radiators! Manual's are the dogs...

Recommend a complete brake refurb: new discs, new pads & caliper refurb (caliper's are prone to seize) only 1 of 4 corners on mine worked as it was supposed to...
Bushes will be well worn and as already said might cause your knocking sound (Milners or I can recommend SuperPro)
Anti-roll bar drop links will also need looking at probably...
REPLACE THE 8 BOLTS THAT SECURE THE FRONT WISHBONES !!! (Know of two bad accidents because these snapped or came loose and the wheel collapsed under the Cruiser... Plus they cost almost nothing from MR. T
Rest are the usual hand brake cable that is always slack, rusted rear heater pipes, etc.

Happy reading...

 

[joshg]

Thanks for the replies guys, would a change of radiator be advised as a precaution? Also been looking into the performance chips that can take it to 190bhp, would this be ok or best left on an engine that has done 130k?
josh

 

[Bounder]

Change the radiator and forget the chip, you are only asking for trouble trying to extract that much performance out of an older vehicle with an engine and drive train that has done mile already.