New to forum with question on 80 series

[Kellys Hero]

Hi
I am currently looking to purchase an 80 series land cruiser 4.2 diesel.
the one i am looking at currently is a 1993, all looks okay but on starting the engine all the lights are on,, looks like a Christmas tree!!! I've been told by owner that he thinks its the alternator !

Is this a correct analysis ?

 

[StarCruiser]

Hi
I am currently looking to purchase an 80 series land cruiser 4.2 diesel.
the one i am looking at currently is a 1993, all looks okay but on starting the engine all the lights are on,, looks like a Christmas tree!!! I've been told by owner that he thinks its the alternator !

Is this a correct analysis ?

Could be. Try checking the voltage at the driver's side battery. If it's 14.4 on a fast idle then the alternator is ok. It can be the plug on the back of it that's got corroded, that seems fairly common. Alternators are available, call Mike at Robson and Francis for a price if you need one.

 

[clivehorridge]

As near as you’ll get without more details, yes.

Either a completely failing unit, or something much less, such as corroded connections in the plug fitting on the back of the unit. This is a common fault for some reason.

Welcome to the forum BTW, and I wouldn’t let the price of an alternator put you off buying a good 80 either!

 

[Kellys Hero]

Could be. Try checking the voltage at the driver's side battery. If it's 14.4 on a fast idle then the alternator is ok. It can be the plug on the back of it that's got corroded, that seems fairly common. Alternators are available, call Mike at Robson and Francis for a price if you need one.

Thanks for reply, guessed it could be the plug..I currently own a Defender 110 but need some luxury hence upgrading to a LC, its difficult to find an older one that is a reasonable price both the defender and the Land cruiser are appreciating in value..

 

[Kellys Hero]

As near as you’ll get without more details, yes.

Either a completely failing unit, or something much less, such as corroded connections in the plug fitting on the back of the unit. This is a common fault for some reason.

Welcome to the forum BTW, and I wouldn’t let the price of an alternator put you off buying a good 80 either!

Thanks for reply and the welcome, as per my reply to Star Cruiser fining a good 80 for the right money is proving an impossible task, been looking for several months and viewed a lot of pigs.

 

[Chris]

What's your budget and how much would you pay for a really good one - say a 95 24v with no problems and fantastic history??

 

[chapel gate]

What colour is it chris?

 

[StarCruiser]

What colour is it chris?

Not blue that's for sure!

 

[chapel gate]

Not blue that's for sure!

 

[Chris]

Damn Skippy. I am not offering an 80 for sale, let's be crystal clear about hat but I might know someone who is.

If I did have a blue one I can assure you you couldn't afford it!

 

[Kellys Hero]

What's your budget and how much would you pay for a really good one - say a 95 24v with no problems and fantastic history??

Max budget is 4k, hence I 've gone for the older model with less electronics..

 

[Chris]

OK, can't help you there then, that's somewhat short.
You really do have to consider what you you MIGHT have to pay to get a budget 80 up to spec.
You might buy one for 4k but realistically have to spend 2k on it to get it straight. That makes ones with good province at say 6k money well spent.

 

[Kellys Hero]

OK, can't help you there then, that's somewhat short.
You really do have to consider what you you MIGHT have to pay to get a budget 80 up to spec.
You might buy one for 4k but realistically have to spend 2k on it to get it straight. That makes ones with good province at say 6k money well spent.

Hi Chris
Yes I appreciate the values. Luckily I'm a welder of many years experience so I'm quote happy to repair one that has chassis problems, plus I run my own charter boats so also have good knowledge of mechanics. It's just the niggley problems involving electrics etc that I seek answers rather that waste hours tracing faults. Hence why I have joined forums. You just can't buy the experience of owners..
Good luck with your sale..

 

[Chris]

I'm not selling one. I just know someone who might be, I doubt you'll find chassis problems that require welding. These don't go like Landies do. But you will doubtless need a front axle rebuild, BEBs, locker motors, brakes and other common bits and there's a grand right there.

 

[StarCruiser]

The thing is, 80s don't suffer from too many chassis problems. There's occasional cracks appear on well used trucks around some of the mounting points but the main problem is rust underneath. I think what Chris is saying is that at £4K you won't be so much wasting time tracing electrical faults as wasting time viewing pigs. The 80 series generally has minimal electronics and that which it does have are pretty reliable. As you probably already know the 80 is one of the most reliable vehicles ever made.
The experience of owners you speak of is to go for the least messed about least rusted truck with the best service history and if it's a 24 valve later model then that's the best 80 you can get. The earlier ones have smaller less effective brakes, which can be changed, engines can be changed, but at £4K you're going to be looking at pigs until the cows come home unless you get really lucky as they've usually been abused as farm vehicles in that price bracket. Buy cheap buy twice even applies to 80s. We've got Pro welders on here with serious mechanical skills. They know to spend a bit more to start with to save lots of heartache later. There's few on here that have more experience than Chris, Andy Lomas and Trevor.

Welcome to the forum BTW, whatever you end up with it will be great to see some photos of it. Good luck finding it. If you do get a welding project it'll be good to see it being brought back from the brink and I for one would applaud you for that.

Best wishes

Rich

 

[clivehorridge]

Agree with all the above. I’ve had some chassis cracks recently, but only of my own making doing fairly regular slightly more extreme off-road.
Rust on my ‘95 80 has been confined to bodywork, lower rear quarters behind the back bumper, creeping up the rear arches and some at the rear end of one sill.

Others have had worse, inner front wings and of course arches where mud has been allowed to collect behind the plastic trims, and where the rear inner meets the outer arch.

Some have had rust start in window frame reveals, which needs a more refined welding approach as you’ll appreciate.

These are old trucks now 20 years plus, so if they’ve had good thorough cleaning care, the rust is likely to be less.

Chris is right on the mechanics, it’s more front axle than anywhere else and replacement parts do not get cheaper as time goes on.

 

[Bruiser]

Our 80 series had a frighteningly rotten chassis . The inner rails at the back were gone , there were holes appearing everywhere else and the spring seats looked ready to let go at the end.

 

[Kellys Hero]

One I'm.looking at the moment also has some serious chassis issues. I only found that out by using the governments MOT checker web site it gives info of all previous mots along with advisories and mileage. This is great link if your looking for providence for any new acquisitions..

 

[StarCruiser]

One I'm.looking at the moment also has some serious chassis issues. I only found that out by using the governments MOT checker web site it gives info of all previous mots along with advisories and mileage. This is great link if your looking for providence for any new acquisitions..

Yes, this is a useful tool. I've used it several times. It's even shown up a vehicle that was supposed to be scrapped that was sold on.

 

[Bruiser]

Only ours never got picked up on at mot time , not that we were going to complain or anything.