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Newbie Question

Piper said:
The trip we're planning is probably going to be down the west coast of Africa

I'm heading down the west coast route in March - in a '90. I'll report back how it went ;)
 
That'd be great! I'd love to hear how it all goes. Do you have a website up? Also, I'd love to see some pics of your 90 if you have any?

Cheers and good luck!
Ryan
 
ignat said:
Piper said:
The trip we're planning is probably going to be down the west coast of Africa

I'm heading down the west coast route in March - in a '90. I'll report back how it went ;)

.
..
He, he, he, well that rules me out. :thumbup:

Graham
 
How? The report will be longer than a page and have more than 4 photo's? :mrgreen: Still waiting for the rest of the trip report... :(
 
Hello again,

Ok, so I have now officially decided that I am 100% selling my car and am going to buy a 90 LC. I do though have one last question rearding the engines available. Most of the LC's out there are the 3.0td engine but I have noticed some have the D4-D instead. Can anyone tell me if there are advantages or disadvanatages of one of these over the other? Thanks.

On a side note, there were a few key factors that made me decide to go for an LC now rather than waiting a few months like I had planned. Firstly, I just came back from a few weeks in Malawi and at least 9 out of every 10 vehicles there are Toyota's and the vast majority have intergalactic mileages on them. Even more impressive given that they are worked seriously hard and overloaded every day but they still keep going. The other thing is that my current car is an MG ZT diesel with only 49k on the clock. I check this forum regularly and also check an MG owners forum out of interest. When this last batch of cold weather hit, I noticed on this forum a couple of posts about battery's dying and that was about all. On the MG forum there were heaps of posts about cars not starting, idling irratically, electronics not working, etc, etc. Although my car worked fine and I really like owning it, the gulf in reliability between an MG and an LC is huge. So an LC it is. I'm now on the lookout for the right one. I'm not in a big rush so am taking my time to find the right one.

Cheers
Ryan
 
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Ryan,
The 3l KZ-TE was superceded by the D4-D around 2000/2001. The D4-D is IMHO a more desirable engine - the KZ-TE can have problems with overheating and cracking heads. This is few and far between but it does happen. The D4-D does not have these problems - it's slightly more powerful, more economical etc. The D4-Ds can have injector problems, although this seems to be on the 120 rather than the 90 from what I recall - not sure why that would be the case. If I was buying a 90, I would go for the D4-D for sure, all else being roughly equal.

The D4-D 90s do seem to get a bit of a premium on price plus they're also the latest of the model - they do come up occasionally but the prices can be silly. I'm sure with some ptience and shopping around, you can find a good one! :thumbup:

Cheers,
 
The D4D is also better on Fuel... But there are some dissadvantages, the fuel system is more 'sensitive' if your planning on running lower grade diesel or anything odd - the mechanical injectors on the 1KZTE are IMO more reliable

The 1KZTE is still available in other countries in new Toyotas now..!
 
So, based on the information I've gotten am I correct in assuming that if I go for the 1KZTE I should be looking for one post 1997-98 as the cracked head problems aren't so prevalent? Maybe a '99 or 2000?

I have seen a few D4D's at the edge of my price range but I'm now quite intrigued about their sensitivity to dodgy fuel. I'm planning to go down the west coast of Africa and up the east so will likely encounter some bad fuel there.

Maybe the 1KZTE is the way to go??
 
Gav Peter said:
IIRC weren't cracked heads mainly on auto models?
That seems to be the trend in the UK. In SA, the autos and manual KZTEs seem to crack equally - probably because of hotter ambient conditions.

If you can get a D4-D, why not invest in a high quality fuel filter system (Racor) - this would be a good idea irrespective of the engine but probably essential for the D4-D. You can get filter elements that remove water and particles down to 1 or 2 micron. Unless you're really heading off the beaten track, chances of coming across really nasty fuel are not that great - i.e. fill up at truck stops in the bigger towns and the diesel should be good. Buying fuel out of a drum in some backwater village in the Congo might be different :mrgreen:

Cheers,
 
Unfortunately auto is the only option open to me. I'd be happy with either but the wife is auto only! :?
 
Thats one way to stop her driving it :twisted:
 
Piper said:
I have seen a few D4D's at the edge of my price range but I'm now quite intrigued about their sensitivity to dodgy fuel. I'm planning to go down the west coast of Africa and up the east so will likely encounter some bad fuel there.

Maybe the 1KZTE is the way to go??

I have recently caught up with a mate who has been serving with the British Army in the Congo. They use D4D Hiluxes out there and quite often the fuel they use is, as Andrew said, out of barrels bought in villages, as they out all over the country and have to fuel up when they can.

The only mod to their fuel systems that they have a setup where they quite literally have two Toyota standard fuel filters fitted in-line. He said that the engine isn't particularly fussy about 'dirty fuel' as the filters seem to take the particulate matter out anyway but if there is lots of water in it then they can run a bit rough, but they still run.

I have 2 90 series at home one with a D4D one with a 1KZTE and i would take either as they are both great engines, but if you can afford it, i'd have the D4D...

Why?

More powerful
Better economy
When mated to an auto gearbox they are really user-friendly off-road
Much quieter on a long run

But as i said, i'd quite happily take either!
 
How similar is the d4d engine fitted to late model 90's to the 120 engine?
 
It is the same unit with all the same bits but apparently the D4D in mine is the commercial unit and so only generates 165ish BHP rather than the 174 that the 120s can make.
 
Ok, here I go again! Sorry for all the questions!

All the D4D's that I've seen lately are a wee bit above my price range, however I have been offered a nice '97 3.0TD at a good price. The problem is that it's a P reg so it's likely prone to the overheating issue. My question is this, what exactly was done to the later, R reg onwards vehicles that make them less likely to overheat and crack? Was the colling system improved in some way? Also, if one does overheat and crack, once repaired with new parts, does that mean that it's less likely to happen again or will it be prone to have the same thing again. I hope this makes sense.

Thanks
 
I'm running a P reg - 150K hardish use, and no sign whatsoever (yet) of any failure.

I've removed and flushed radiator, and only ever use genuine RED toyota Coolant. (Mine is a manual though, so possibly less prone??? IMO)

I may change the thermostat as a precaution soon too, but I am from the school of thought that if it aint broke dont fix it, so it is waiting for me to have time....

Dave
 
It's not so much an inherent problem with this engine i.e. if you buy this then at some point the head will crack.

How it was explained to me:

Because it's a steel block and alloy head then they heat at different rates so if you don't take care of the cooling system then it can crack, it may not!

Toyota have produced 10's of thousands of this engine, have been making it for nearly 20 years and still put it in vehicles for the aid agencies today. As long as you flush the cooling system through every couple of years and if it's an automatic replace the radiator every 7-8 years it'll be fine! Of all the 1KZTE's out there only a v small proportion have this problem.

[youtube:3tidf426]5CtK_XZVBa0[/youtube:3tidf426]

This is what the UN, UNICEF, WHO, WWF use today, a 120 amongst others, and guess what engine is in it? Look at 1:19.
 
Chris said:
I bet. A 120 would come in at£? Less than that I'd think. Change of oil, some ATs and turn the key.
Chris

:clap:
They 80 series are good, but perhaps they have had their finest hour?
The ones that are still in decent enough order to do UK to CPT, unscathed, are probably far and few between, unless, as said, a lot of money been spent.

Again, the tarmac versus the unmade roads, from UK to CPT is getting more in favour of the tarmac, every day.
This is where one would enjoy the ride quality, and especially the economy of the newer 120 series.

/ Runs and hides behind Crispin /


Graham
 
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