Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Ooops! !! Done it again

Cdl switch in the box? Wiring? Better to go to Garry's and swap the stuff off a working one or swap off your other trucks mate.
Thats what I did Karl. Took parts from his shelf and swapped out. Only part that was dodgy was transmission relay driver footwell. Is it possible to rewire the cdl to a separate switch. If I could do this then I'd be fully locked. Going to remove cdl switch again tomorrow and meter it to be sure it works. It just needs to power cdl and everything works.
 
Have you checked the wiring end to end from the 4x4 ECU to the CDL? Maybe I missed something but reading through the posts this seems to be the only thing not tested or replaced?
No I haven't Towpack. The light beat me tonight as working on the drive. Will have a look tomorrow. Cheers
 
Thats what I did Karl. Took parts from his shelf and swapped out. Only part that was dodgy was transmission relay driver footwell. Is it possible to rewire the cdl to a separate switch. If I could do this then I'd be fully locked. Going to remove cdl switch again tomorrow and meter it to be sure it works. It just needs to power cdl and everything works.
Don't think it's that simple. I'm pretty sure it would have to be wired into the 44wd relay.
 
Don't think it's that simple. I'm pretty sure it would have to be wired into the 44wd relay.
Can only be one of the sensor switches or as towpack suggested the wiring between 4wd relay and cdl. Really want to sort this. Cheers for the swift reply.
 
Please be aware that I know nothing, but from reading that either the switch isn't working or the cdl isn't getting the message from the switch ( dodgy wire)
I also think if you have a CdL switch then it doesn't come on automatically when put in low ratio. Mine doesn't.

On my Euro spec 80, low overrode the dash CDL switch.

You could CDL in high with the dash switch, but low activated CDL from a switch on the gbox, now disconnected by me, so I can have CDL when I want it, in Hi or Lo range, it's great!

Can't answer Gav's original query though, sorry Gav.
 
Gav, the CDL switch is present on some, absent on others. This means it plays no part in stopping the CDL working so you can eliminate that. Same goes for the switch in the gearbox when in 'L' so it's not that, unless it's both at the same time, which can only really be wiring or the controller or the actuator. You've proven the motoring side of the actuator by jumping it and when it's in the lights come on and the other lockers work so you've proven its internal switches too. So that leaves control box and wiring. If you've changed the control box FOR A KNOWN WORKING UNIT from a working truck, then all you are left with is wiring.
Time to get the multimeter out (on ohms or continuity tone) and with an assistant, trace wire colours between actuator and control box/CDL switch/gearbox switch and do a diagram as you go to tick off each one in turn as you verify their continuity with the meter. One caveat is that sometimes wires go to more than one place but that should become obvious once you get stuck in.
Look for damage to wiring underneath, corrosion or missing/broken pins in connectors, or any sign of repair to the wiring.

Good luck with it.
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Gav, the CDL switch is present on some, absent on others. This means it plays no part in stopping the CDL working so you can eliminate that. Same goes for the switch in the gearbox when in 'L' so it's not that, unless it's both at the same time, which can only really be wiring or the controller or the actuator. You've proven the motoring side of the actuator by jumping it and when it's in the lights come on and the other lockers work so you've proven its internal switches too. So that leaves control box and wiring. If you've changed the control box FOR A KNOWN WORKING UNIT from a working truck, then all you are left with is wiring.
Time to get the multimeter out (on ohms or continuity tone) and with an assistant, trace wire colours between actuator and control box/CDL switch/gearbox switch and do a diagram as you go to tick off each one in turn as you verify their continuity with the meter. One caveat is that sometimes wires go to more than one place but that should become obvious once you get stuck in.
Look for damage to wiring underneath, corrosion or missing/broken pins in connectors, or any sign of repair to the wiring.

Good luck with it.
Cheers Richard. I will do that. We're off roading tomorrow so my next question is this. If I scotchlock in to the power supply to cdl at the plug basically extend my jumper wires into the cab will this work temporarily. Obviously then reverse polarity to retract cdl. Also does the cdl need to be powered to stay in. Jumped it locked last night drove a few ruts and it popped out. Thanks for your help
 
Cheers Richard. I will do that. We're off roading tomorrow so my next question is this. If I scotchlock in to the power supply to cdl at the plug basically extend my jumper wires into the cab will this work temporarily. Obviously then reverse polarity to retract cdl. Also does the cdl need to be powered to stay in. Jumped it locked last night drove a few ruts and it popped out. Thanks for your help
Electrically if you disconnect the wires and put power to the CDL and it works then connecting a feed as you say should work. However, you must separate this from your existing wiring, in other words if you tap into the wiring with scotchlocks you will potentially have a short circuit on your hands so cutting the wires and splicing onto those that go to the CDL is what is needed. I would however check your wiring first because cutting into those two could lead to problems later unless a really good water tight repair is done. If I were you, I would check the wiring on the two wires you intend splicing into. Check their continuity and see if they appear st the controller, CDL switch or lastly on the gearbox switch. Test for continuity. You could also operate the switch and see if you get anything out. I'm not sure how this is wired but I guess it is just a relay in the box or even outside the controller. I'll have a check on mine. Back in a mo. :)
 
CDL is a gear drive and doesn't need power to stay locked quite the opposite you may do damage if you keep it powered longer than needed in either polarity.
 
I'll have a check on mine. Back in a mo. :)
Well that went well!! Got embroiled in something and the whole day has gone. In the meantime I think Jon has answered the question in that there is certainly going to be a controller of sorts (maybe part of the diff locker controller, I don't know) and not the CDL or low range switch that works directly.
Question I'm thinking is, being as some have diff locks and others don't, is there a different controller or is there an additional controller that purely does the CDL? If so, that could be where your problem lies. If it's all in the same controller, just swap that with a known working one to see.
 
In the standard setup the difflock ECU controls everything. The diff lock actuators, and the various switches on the dash and transmission are all connected to the ECU. You could, if you wish, remove the ECU completely and hard wire the actuators directly to separate switches and lights in the cockpit but what a faff! Far better to get the OEM setup working IMO.
 
In the standard setup the difflock ECU controls everything. The diff lock actuators, and the various switches on the dash and transmission are all connected to the ECU. You could, if you wish, remove the ECU completely and hard wire the actuators directly to separate switches and lights in the cockpit but what a faff! Far better to get the OEM setup working IMO.
Cheers guys. I've cut the 2 power supply wires to cdl and extended them to the cab. Using a power supply direct from the battery I can dab wires to lock or unlock cdl. Dash lights up to show when in or out. If I can find a way to switch this from the dash I'd live with it as all lockers are operating now.
 
Back
Top