Over heating

[silvercruiser]

I hope this all works out for you Steve. good write up

Joe

 

[BIG clean GREEN]

I've ordered 2 x 7000 diff oils to use, I was going to do it today, however based on how long it took you to clean it out, I may wait untill I can be assured that I can be off the road for that long without having to nip here and there for the family

Any news if it appears to be working yet ?

Also is there anything that can be used to thin the old oil out to ease draining ?

 

[Nuclear Chicken]

Application of heat is bound to help. Dunk it all in hot water before you split and drain it.

 

[BIG clean GREEN]

OK went down to Chris's this morning where we stripped the fan down, followed the advice here with regards to correct screw driver and tapping the edges Etc. gently twisted then opened it up, the oil in it was much cleaner looking than Steves, so saw no need to drain and fill, we just topped it up with the 7000cst used about 1fl oz just untill the hole was full and creating a small bow wave when twisted round, cleaned up the small amount of crud which was around the edge and stuck it all back together, it's one of those jobs that takes longer to do all the peripheral bits than the fan itself.

Just got to wait now untill it's under load to see if it's worked !

Thanks guys

And uncle Chris

 

[sae70]

This is interesting I wonder how many of us are running with less than efficient viscous fans As Steve says it also all seems a little hit & miss with regards getting the old unit to work in a way the inspires confidence Has anyone considered complete removal of the viscous fan & fitting a Spal/Kenlow electric fan conversion Should give better control & more defined cooling with eledged improved MPG Got me thinking now as you should be able to bring a lecy fan conversion in for around the £150 mark and you could even build in redundancy & stepped cooling by using twin fans

 

[BIG clean GREEN]

Strange you said that Steven, Chris and were talking about the electric fan option this morning, I bought one off e-bay a few years back for my landy cost me £50 for a kenlowe, and so simple to do, you set your temp control and you could even put the temp probe top or bottom of the engine, or both if you went for a twin set up

I've got a spare bottle of 7000cst oil should anyone want to do theirs, at cost of oil and P&P so about £5 !!!

 

[sae70]

I did one on my first Zuk 'Shaky'

Here's a link to the topic on Shropshire Suzuki http://www.shropshire-suzuki.co.uk/foru ... =15&t=2803

You probably will not be able to see any pics unless you join but there's some interesting info through the thread with regards to the difference between Spal & Kenlow fans & if the temp sender should be in the top hose or the bottom hose.

Worth a read IMHO

 

[Chas]

Has anyone considered complete removal of the viscous fan & fitting a Spal/Kenlow electric fan conversion Should give better control & more defined cooling with eledged improved MPG Got me thinking now as you should be able to bring a lecy fan conversion in for around the £150 mark and you could even build in redundancy & stepped cooling by using twin fans

I di just that and had constant overheating problems, replaced viscous fan, problems solved
But if anyone wants to give it a go they can come and collect my old Kenlowe from Morden, end of the Northern Line.

 

[sae70]

Has anyone considered complete removal of the viscous fan & fitting a Spal/Kenlow electric fan conversion Should give better control & more defined cooling with eledged improved MPG Got me thinking now as you should be able to bring a lecy fan conversion in for around the £150 mark and you could even build in redundancy & stepped cooling by using twin fans

I di just that and had constant overheating problems, replaced viscous fan, problems solved
But if anyone wants to give it a go they can come and collect my old Kenlowe from Morden, end of the Northern Line.

And this is what I stumbled over with regards to Kenlowe fans when I did the conversion on my Zuk

Decided to remove the factory standard fitted viscous fan and fan cowl from Shaky and fit an electric fan that can be isolated when wadding

After much trawling of the net and reading about other peoples findings with respect to different electric fan manufacturers I have chosen to go with a Spal electric fan as I could only find positive comments written about them even by the LR boys and could not find any negative comments Where as it was easy to find negative comments that people had written about the other two well known electric fan manufacturers

So decision made I contacted Fereday cars and spoke to a chap called Allen who was extremely helpful and mailed me all kinds of spec/performance detail and dimension drawings

After much chat about what I required from my electric fan the one that he recommended for Shaky was a 12" straight blade suction fan part# VA10-AP9/C-25A 305mm/52mm/12V/suction) and the more robust mechano style fan mounting kit part# 4 x 3013.0011.

The decision to go for the 12" fan was simply because it is the largest one that would comfortably fit the back of the radiator, suction as it would fit between the radiator and the engine and so be less exposed to the extremes of off road compared to a blower fan mounted on the front of the radiator, straight blade because although the curved blade fans are more efficient they are more delicate and prone to going out of balance when covered in dried mud and breaking a blade and the mechano style fan fixing kit simply because it provided a far stronger fixing and so better for the off road environment all of this advice given by Allen of Fereday Cars who has been using and supplying the Spal fan range for some 20 years

 

[Chas]

I put an electric fan in so it could be switched off if wading or muddy. The trouble with the Kenlowe I had was that it wouldn't fit in with the cowl in place, so it only dragged air through the rad over the diameter of the fan, IIRC it was 16" but with the cowl fitted the viscous fan would drag air from all over the rads area, obviously greater cooling power.

 

[sae70]

I put an electric fan in so it could be switched off if wading or muddy. The trouble with the Kenlowe I had was that it wouldn't fit in with the cowl in place, so it only dragged air through the rad over the diameter of the fan, IIRC it was 16" but with the cowl fitted the viscous fan would drag air from all over the rads area, obviously greater cooling power.

Interesting So maybe a smaller lecy fan with the cowl still fitted would have been better

edit - of course the other option would be to keep the viscous fan give it a service & fit a small push lecy fan on the front of the Rads just on a switch for when the going gets tough & slow

 

[Steve H]

Have a read through this and see if it gives you any pointers. my fan is the same hot or cold so might give this a try as I now have a 16 inch fan to fit in the cowling.
http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

I experimented with replacing the engine fan with electric fans on my old 80 but went back to the OEM fan. IMO the engine fan does more than just drag air through the radiator, it also creates quite a lot of air movement within the engine bay that is missing with electric fans which means higher under bonnet temperatures at slow speeds especially.

 

[Chas]

I put an electric fan in so it could be switched off if wading or muddy. The trouble with the Kenlowe I had was that it wouldn't fit in with the cowl in place, so it only dragged air through the rad over the diameter of the fan, IIRC it was 16" but with the cowl fitted the viscous fan would drag air from all over the rads area, obviously greater cooling power.

Interesting So maybe a smaller lecy fan with the cowl still fitted would have been better

edit - of course the other option would be to keep the viscous fan give it a service & fit a small push lecy fan on the front of the Rads just on a switch for when the going gets tough & slow

A smaller fan may have been better but I think it would need to be the same diameter as the 'hole' at the rear of the cowl, I couldn't fit one in front because the engine rad, air-con and intercooler left no room.

 

[Chris Green90]

I may be seting myself up for sme majr prblems by tempting fate here, but here goes.
I my 90 I have never had a prblem with overheating, no matter what i have pulled or where have been, including a lorry 2 miles down the ard shoulder.
I am now wondering if

the difference is the manual gear box as the rad does not have the intergral oil cooler(I think thats right)

and also my fan seems to run all the time, from the moment i turn her over in a morning to when I put her to be at night after doing pretty much 8 hours for constant stop start driving.

Is this more a problem intrinsictly linked to the auto box??? Had a surf 3 years back and had no end of problems with the gearbox overheating and boiling the rad dry. Just on the drive up to the lakes for my wedding I had to stop twice before scotch corner to let it cool down and after that the only thin that would keep it cool was having the air con on full all the time.

So maybe the only full fix for this is a seperate oil cooler.

Please feel free to tell me I am talking out of my Jacksie because I probably am, but all things considered and simplified this seem to be the issue

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

The auto box does put quite a lot of extra thermal load on the cooling system, directly via the oil cooler in the rad and indirectly through heat soak. An unlocked TC that is working hard generates a lot of heat energy.

 

[BlackWidow]

Well guys here it is I have been away for the last three weeks and been fully loaded with the Mother, wife, and Daughter. The boot was also full of the camping gear and I put the old girl through her paces......the truck not Mum.

First off I noticed that I was getting the woosh from the fan on start up due to all the oil settling at the bottom...good start.....so any way after a day of driving I found some steep hills and did high reving low speed trials. The fan cut in and stayed in for a while and the truck did not over heat. It looks like that the overhaul of the fan has worked.

I have not yet fitted the 76oc thermostat yet as I think that I have cracked it. I will keep the thermostat in reserve just in case, I plan on some heavy of roading in August and give the truck a real workout.

Steve

 

[AndyCook]

that sounds like good news

I am glad i topped up fluid level in fan clutch on my vehicle before spain, as i didnt used to hear the fan before then
but on mountain climbs in spain it was engaging a lot of the time

 

[BlackWidow]

that sounds like good news

I am glad i topped up fluid level in fan clutch on my vehicle before spain, as i didnt used to hear the fan before then
but on mountain climbs in spain it was engaging a lot of the time

Thats the thing.... it had been such a long time.....but it was not until I fixed my fan and started getting the woosh noise every time that I started up that I remembered that I was getting the woosh before the over heating problem started and that I was not getting it when I was over heating.

So what I think maybe a thing do is to listen out for is that woosh for the first few miles after start up and this may mean that the fan is in good working order.

Steve

 

[BIG clean GREEN]

Good news Steve

Out of curiosity, am I correct in thinking yours is an a/t ? Chris and I did my fan the other week and I have to say that I haven't heard the woosh yet, it's not been under any load but even on start up I dont hear the woosh, but maybe the woosh was there before and I'd never noticed it

When we stripped it down the oil was slightly discoloured and there was a minute amount of scum around the seal, I would say compared to the pictures and the you-tube link mine was in V good condition !

We topped it up using the 7000 cst silicone oil, just until the the oil came up to the holes and created a bit of a bow wave when twisted, is this about the same amount that you filled it to ?