Prado 1KZ-TE Starting and Idling Problems

[jsbautista08]

How did you get on running from the can Jay? This should eliminate anything upstream of the pump.

Haven’t had the chance to yet. I currently do not have the components necessary to run the test. Plus I had to cancel my trip to the auto shop due to work related reasons, so that’ll have to be rescheduled. What’s your opinion on my fuel pump? Is the SCV that part I encircled?

 

[jsbautista08]

On my way to my morning meeting I decided to do a little experiment. Going to the meeting venue involved a 40-60 mins drive through the highway and some traffic. I though I would try to drive with the transmission not on drive but on 3 and amazingly I had zero idling problems. As soon as I arrived at my destination and threw the transmission in reverse to park, there it goes again! Same case when I put it in drive, erratic idle again. The moment I put it in 3 the problem goes away! What gives??? Now I’m even more confused.

 

[Deleted member 13129]

Haven’t had the chance to yet. I currently do not have the components necessary to run the test. Plus I had to cancel my trip to the auto shop due to work related reasons, so that’ll have to be rescheduled. What’s your opinion on my fuel pump? Is the SCV that part I encircled?

Yes it is , the one with the electric connection plug that you circled .

 

[jsbautista08]

Ok scratch that. It was a fluke. Drove home and tried the same thing and unstable rough idle all over the place

 

[Beau]

Worth checking main engine/battery earth wires. There's also a main one for the trans that earths at the oil filter bracket. Simple enough to check and won't cost you much!

 

[jsbautista08]

I checked my filter box this morning before leaving for work and everything seems tight except for 1 part and I’m unsure if there’s supposed to be something plugged into it. Please see photos below.

 

[Deleted member 13129]

I checked my filter box this morning before leaving for work and everything seems tight except for 1 part and I’m unsure if there’s supposed to be something plugged into it. Please see photos below.

View attachment 152095 View attachment 152096 View attachment 152097

That's the bracket for the MAF sensor wiring loom that fits diagonally opposite on the 1KD-FTV engine that has not been cut out on your air box lid , the screw diagonal posts and round hole has not been cut out on your airbox lid so as to suit your engine .

 

[jsbautista08]

That's the bracket for the MAF sensor wiring loom that fits diagonally opposite on the 1KD-FTV engine that has not been cut out on your air box lid , the screw diagonal posts and round hole has not been cut out on your airbox lid so as to suit your engine .

Apologies for being such noob! I haven't really had the chance to get to know my engine more. So to clarify, nothing should be plugged in there? And it doesn't cause an air leak?

And a little off topic, I see you're from CY. Ti kaneis re? Esy kala?

 

[jsbautista08]

By the way, does anyone know what a proper MAP sensor reading should be? Mine reads around 150-180 according to the scan tool. I've no idea if that is normal or low, mechanic thinks that it's a low reading. Don't fully trust the mechanic's opinion hence I ask over here

 

[Deleted member 13129]

Apologies for being such noob! I haven't really had the chance to get to know my engine more. So to clarify, nothing should be plugged in there? And it doesn't cause an air leak?

And a little off topic, I see you're from CY. Ti kaneis re? Esy kala?

Yes I am well , how are you , In your engine case nothing should be plugged in there , and as the holes don't go in through the lid it wont cause a air leak , I guess Toyota make one airbox for the two diesel 120s they sell in different parts of the world . to save on production costs , all 120s in europe use the IKD - FTV d4d engine and was first used in the 90 series in its last year of production in 2001 . and went from 161 bhp to 201 until it it was changed for the 2.8 engine in 2016.

 

[StarCruiser]

Apologies for being such noob!

No apologies necessary here Jay, every day’s a school day. I would have asked the same question in your circumstances.

 

[Deleted member 13129]

By the way, does anyone know what a proper MAP sensor reading should be? Mine reads around 150-180 according to the scan tool. I've no idea if that is normal or low, mechanic thinks that it's a low reading. Don't fully trust the mechanic's opinion hence I ask over here

I have just checked mine with a scanner at cold start at 795 rpm idle and it was 71 , 8 mile trip fully warmed at 700 rpm it was 70 both readings were at 20 centigrade temp . don't know what the figures was whilst driving as I just checked both when car was stopped at idle speed . Thats with 1KD -ftv engine .

 

[Beau]

OP, Do you have a 1KZ or 1KD engine? Cause I'm pretty sure the 1KZ doesn't have a map sensor located at the airbox? It does have one on the intake manifold which reads boost levels for the ECU. The 1KZ also has some sort of flow sensor in the intake stream which in my opinion doesn't really do much.

These 1KZ engines are also OB1 so I'm not sure you can even read individual components like you have. This is why I think you have a 1KD engine. A pic of your engine bay could confirm which engine you have.

 

[Deleted member 13129]

OP, Do you have a 1KZ or 1KD engine? Cause I'm pretty sure the 1KZ doesn't have a map sensor located at the airbox? It does have one on the intake manifold which reads boost levels for the ECU. The 1KZ also has some sort of flow sensor in the intake stream which in my opinion doesn't really do much.

These 1KZ engines are also OB1 so I'm not sure you can even read individual components like you have. This is why I think you have a 1KD engine. A pic of your engine bay could confirm which engine you have.

I am pretty sure its a 1KZ he has as it says it on the pic on the airbox and I can see in one pic in the background it is a 1kz cam cover where oil filler cap is , and its a MAF sensor the 1KZ does not have , it does have a MAP sensor , the same spec 120s are sold in Australia , 1KD did not sell in the 120s until sometime in 2006 in Australia . JSBs 120 is a 2006 reg so was made late 2005 to early 2oo6 and would probably be ob2 compliant but not 100% sure on that .Jsb car has nothing on his air box it is blank where the MAF sensor would be but its the same airbox as the 120 1KD if you look at the pics of the airbox no MAF sensor where one would be one the 1KD .

 

[jsbautista08]

Hello guys, an update about my 120. So I took her to the official Denso calibration center after new year. They kept her for a week and now she’s perfect. So it turns out that the fuel pump internals were worn and out of spec. Spill Valve was fine so at least that wasn’t one of the things that had to be replaced. They took the pump apart, replaced what had to be replaced, stuck it into the calibration machine and that took a whole week. They also took down the injectors and replaced components that were worn. Total cost of repairs was just under $600.

Now everything is in spec and she’s running like a dream, dare I say, as good as the day she was purchased. Half turn and the engine starts, engine warms up in no time and fuel consumption is now much better at 15L/100km (used to be 25L/100km).

 

[jsbautista08]

By the way, does anyone know what a proper MAP sensor reading should be? Mine reads around 150-180 according to the scan tool. I've no idea if that is normal or low, mechanic thinks that it's a low reading. Don't fully trust the mechanic's opinion hence I ask over here

And about this, the turbo sensor the Toyota service installed was wrong. They installed a sensor for a full size Landcruiser, not a Prado. Just switching the key to ignition already gave a boost reading of about 120, reading should only be around 100 on the scan tool. We installed my old turbo sensor and it turns out that there was nothing wrong with it. That’s a big thumbs down for that service center.

 

[Deleted member 13129]

Hello guys, an update about my 120. So I took her to the official Denso calibration center after new year. They kept her for a week and now she’s perfect. So it turns out that the fuel pump internals were worn and out of spec. Spill Valve was fine so at least that wasn’t one of the things that had to be replaced. They took the pump apart, replaced what had to be replaced, stuck it into the calibration machine and that took a whole week. They also took down the injectors and replaced components that were worn. Total cost of repairs was just under $600.

Now everything is in spec and she’s running like a dream, dare I say, as good as the day she was purchased. Half turn and the engine starts, engine warms up in no time and fuel consumption is now much better at 15L/100km (used to be 25L/100km).

Thats great news J , you must be happy bunny now .

 

[jsbautista08]

Thats great news J , you must be happy bunny now .

Very!

 

[petcy]

Yes it is , the one with the electric connection plug that you circled .

hello Tony, Hope everything is fine, Are you mechanic? i have a friend same problem with landcruiser , are you in Cyprus? Can you Help? Thanks

 

[Deleted member 13129]

Hi
No I am not a mechanic , it is just that I have been servicing and maintaining my own cars since 1978 going on to fixing and servicing my kids cars . Yes I still live in Larnaca .