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Prop UJs

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pberrey

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Does anyone know where I can buy a new yoke for my rear prop? It's a 94 12v auto if it makes a difference.

Both front and rear props yokes have been squashed very slightly by the previous owner. This is preventing the new UJs from fitting because the holes are no longer parallel meaning the last UJ cup won't go in enough to fit the C clip.

I know Roughtrax do a front yoke but they dont list a rear.

My LC has been off the road for two weeks whilst my local garage has been trying to fit the UJs but they didn't get any further than I did.

Paul


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There's an engineering firm ( Vernon Brown ) in High Wycombe in Bucks that would do the job for you but i guess it's a bit far for you.
 
Get a whole new (used) prop from Karl. If you are fitting new bearings the condition of the old ones doesn't matter. Why haven't the straightened the yokes? Bash bash, bang bang. If Karl hasn't got one, I bet Triggers has in Peterborough
 
Chris the garage said they tried a couple of local engineering shops but they wouldn't touch them. There is no wear on them which is why fitting the new UJs isn't easy so I'd rather go with new yokes or getting the holes lined back up again.


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Then I'd get another prop. No point messing with just the yokes. I'd straighten them, they're cast steel or SG iron, something fairly malleable. Clearly they've had a battering.
 
It's not the case that one of the needles has picked up and got pushed to the base of the cup? This is so easily done and stops them dead at a couple of mm from home. Just a thought.
 
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That did happen on one cup and it had to be refitted but you can usually feel a notch when turning the UJ if that has happened.

I think someone used a press to get the last set in and have also squashed the jaws of the yoke very slightly. I didn't see it until the garage pointed it out but I'd say it's out by no more than 1mm. The cup is about 1.5mm short of getting the C clip on.

Does anyone have a part number for the rear yoke?

Paul


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I'm so surprised these seem to need pressing in. I replaced a UJ on a mark 1 Shogun a few years back and did it under the truck in about half an hour just by tapping the old out with the prop up, down, left, right and just cleaned the bores with a little emery and oiled and refitted. If these are such brutes I'm not looking forward to them.
 
They shouldn't be beyond persuasion by a large hammer unless the holes you are pushing the UJ into aren't parallel anymore.


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Alternately, would they line back up again when bolted up tight to the diff flange?
 
Unless your holes are EXACTLY on the same axis the joints will be tight and wear out. Also if you do manage to get them together the prop could well be out of balance as you have lost the original reference point and the shaft may not be spinning on its' axis. Buy one from Karl I would have thought. This whole thread begs the question as to why your on your 3rd set of joints. Mine are perfect after 145,000 miles. Grease every 4,000 miles as per owners handbook and make sure the grease comes out of all four bearings.
 
Oooh yuk!! I had missed that, 3rd set of joints does sound like there's something seriously wrong. There would be a way to straighten them, but why bother if you can lay your hands on a s/h prop as Chris and Frank have suggested. If you go that route at least you can rebuild and swap it over knowing that it's aok. Check the splines are in the correct orientation as described on another thread somewhere though.
 
frank rabbets said:
Grease every 4,000 miles as per owners handbook and make sure the grease comes out of all four bearings.
Click to expand...

Hmmm.…I must confess I've been a bit lax with this but mine are still fine after 125,000 miles. They're now all greased up with grease coming out of all 4 seals.
 
Who said they are my third set of UJs? I've no idea if they are original or it's had fifty sets in 180,000 miles


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Starcruiser wins first prize.

It turns out that what my local garage was telling me was slightly inaccurate. The yokes do look pinched in but they measure up ok so it must be an optical illusion on the design of the casting. It turns out they weren't any better at fitting UJs than I was and three needles had dropped into the bottom of the cup when they did it. Apparently only one needle had fallen out when I handed them in originally but at least they never charged me.

It's a classic case of making a big issue out of a basic mistake because you don't like to think you've made a basic mistake and it must be something weird.

But that's why I have a go at this stuff because I might need to do it in the bush one day and that isn't the time or place to be doing things for the first time.

Tip of the day: use a vice to fit UJs as you are less likely to disturb the needles when pressing the cups in than tapping them with a hammer.

Paul


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Glad you got it sorted Paul.

Not sure if a set of two legged pullers would work to press them back in instead of a vice. Can't remember what I used on the Shogun in the end, might have been a large pair of slip joint / water pump pliers. I know it wasn't much trouble.

Thanks for the update.

Richard
 
I always used to use a vice for UJs. If the jaws are square and in good condition, the bearing cups will slide in with smooth and even pressure, as opposed to the twisting they get when hammered in.

With care and a good dolly, hammering can be just fine, but the even pressure and control you get from using a vice is much preferred IMO.
 
Should have said "at least 3rd set of UJ's".

If one puts the cross piece in first then presses one bearing slightly it's possible to slide the cross piece up into the bearing thus keeping the needles in place. When the first bearing is fully home it's possible to do the same with the other side bearing without removing it fully from the first bearing. This way one can keep all the needles in place.

Done millions on Land Rovers. They only used to last to the shops and back even though I greased them every 10 feet.
 
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