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Radiator

Tada!
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And the rather wet rusty looking bit.
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I hope I remember how it all goes back together :l
 
:thumbup: Just remember to check the ATF level when you're done Nick.
 
:thumbup: Just remember to check the ATF level when you're done Nick.
Thanks Ed. is that a top it up through the dipstick and cycle it through all the gears a few times measure and redo and recheck? Is thermostat and water pump easy to do? Not looked at where they are yet.
 
Oh and the part number for the radiator from Simon is 16400 17030
 
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I have decided to chicken out of doing the water pump and thermostat. They are there if needed another time. There looks to be too many things for me to F up if I attempted that. Hopefully I'll finish work at a nice time today and have a go at putting it all back together.
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Shiny newness!
 
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I just had one made for me with bigger tanks and more cores out of brass and copper and heavy duty cooling fins. Chap recons it will last the trucks life and any problems take it to him and he'll get it sorted again. I found mine was leaking at the bottom where the plastic tank is crimped onto the bottom of the cores
 
So I've put it all back together ran it till it was hot yesterday. This morning went out and checked the level in the rad and expansion tank and it had sucked about an inch out the bottle. topped that up. Today ran it till it was hot. cycled through the gears level was at the top of the hot marker. went for a little drive come back level still at the top. I shall keep an eye on it but guess i'm all done. Woo! :)
 
The rear heater, if you have one, can trap air and the car needs a good run to clear it. Or park on the drive at 2,000 RPM in the heat for 20 minutes driving the neighbors madder.
 
Yes forgot to say had heaters on front and back at top whack during all of this. Was rather toasty in there! Thanks frank.
 
Thanks Ed. is that a top it up through the dipstick and cycle it through all the gears a few times measure and redo and recheck? Is thermostat and water pump easy to do? Not looked at where they are yet.

Sorry managed to miss this but it sounds like you're all sorted.
 
Good news Nick, all sorted.

I guess there was no signs of a leak from the water pump anyway. Some folks change them as a matter of course when the renew the timing belt and tensioner, because all the prep strip-down for the two jobs is much the same.

I'm on my third TB change since ownership, and this time there were signs of a leak, so it got replaced. If you use proper coolant in the system, the pumps usually last a long time.

Well done matey, it's nice to do a job yourself with a successful outcome. :thumbup:
 
Good to hear all is good. A little tip for others who may check out this thread, I might be repeating myself but hey.

Most people know to put the heater on hot when refilling the system. If you do it on the 80 then it stays on cold....unless you switch on the ignition. There is a cable at the valve but the cable is not linked directly with the 'hot' lever in the dashboard, it is controlled by a servo.

So ignition on, heater to hot, ignition off, and then it will hold in the open position.

regards

Dave
 
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hello Clive, it had a new timing belt last year when the injection pump was sorted out. Other than unrelated oily bits there were no other damp patches showing up in the mud. Know your limits! I know i'd get stuck if i started playing with the water pump and from reading other threads its either a case of aint broke don't fix it or change it and a core plug behind it. If it goes it goes but i have it as a spare now so not the end of the world :)
 
Hello Dave, didn't know that. I filled it up. ran it. left it over night, topped up, ran it left it all afternoon and just topped it up again ( Not leaking ) just burping the system i guess.) will be keeping an eye on it
 
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