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Thanks Chris. That's 12lbs on the wheel stud pull?
I'll check both readings as well.
Frank
I'll check both readings as well.
Frank
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Rebuilding the 80 series front axle
- Thread starter Andrew Prince
- Start date
Yes it is. Tangentially, of course.
I take a reading, turn the hub, take another etc just to check that it's even. I don't think that it's critical to hit 12lbs precisely or be the same on both wheels. I am not anal about it, just as long as it's not 3lbs or 50lbs. There is a 'feel' to it when it's right that you could easily judge by hand after a while and be pretty close. It is important that it feels smooth with no tight spots.
Chris
I take a reading, turn the hub, take another etc just to check that it's even. I don't think that it's critical to hit 12lbs precisely or be the same on both wheels. I am not anal about it, just as long as it's not 3lbs or 50lbs. There is a 'feel' to it when it's right that you could easily judge by hand after a while and be pretty close. It is important that it feels smooth with no tight spots.
Chris
Andrew Prince
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Frank, have you read the first couple of posts on this thread? There are links to a detailed write-up on how to set the pre-load, as Chris is describing herefrank rabbets said:
I just notices that the Koyo trunioun bearings that milners supplied me with are in fact not toyo but nachi? Has anyone used or know the quality of these? Are they coca cola or panda cola? Secondly in my haste to dismantle the axle I failed to observe which way that the trunion bearings enter the swivel ball! Should the tapered end face inwards or outwards?
Is there a rotational pre load for the trunion bearings?
For the main wheel bearings I am assuming that I tighten the inner nut to 64lbs Torque, slacken off, re torque to 5lbs then fit the lock nut and tighten it to 12lbs
Is there a rotational pre load for the trunion bearings?
For the main wheel bearings I am assuming that I tighten the inner nut to 64lbs Torque, slacken off, re torque to 5lbs then fit the lock nut and tighten it to 12lbs
Y'know this stuff really IS out there. Do you have the FSM? I would suggest that you read the section on the front axle. It is all explained in there. When we post we have to assume a certain degree of ability on the spanners so sometimes we might miss out things that less experienced people might think critical. So hang with us on that and we'll get you though this.
But a front axle rebuild on an 80, whilst messy really is NOT the most technical of fixes. The top and bottom swivel bearings for example. You cant possibly put them in the wrong way round. They are tapered and go in after you pound the outer race in. If you put the outer race in back to front, you wouldn't be able to get the inner race in. I don't know Nachi bearings, but they'll be fine. They aren't a wheel bearing, they just go backwards and forwards a bit. It's unlikely that they are going to disintegrate whilst you are steering. The narrow end of the bearing engages in the ball on the end of the axle and the kingpin goes into the wider end.
As far as the wheel lock nuts are concerned, no, I don't think you have that right. It's the rotational pull on one of the studs that needs to be 12 lbs. Not 12 ft/lbs on the nut. The initial torque on the inner nut should be 43 ft/lbs. Rotate, slacken off then re torque to 43 then loosen and tighten to 55. It's a bit of a palava. I just tighten everything to give me 12 lbs on the stud.
Rotational load on the swivel housing is around 9lbs IIRC.
That will hopefully answer some of your questions. We've all been there. But the FSM really is a good place to start.
Chris
But a front axle rebuild on an 80, whilst messy really is NOT the most technical of fixes. The top and bottom swivel bearings for example. You cant possibly put them in the wrong way round. They are tapered and go in after you pound the outer race in. If you put the outer race in back to front, you wouldn't be able to get the inner race in. I don't know Nachi bearings, but they'll be fine. They aren't a wheel bearing, they just go backwards and forwards a bit. It's unlikely that they are going to disintegrate whilst you are steering. The narrow end of the bearing engages in the ball on the end of the axle and the kingpin goes into the wider end.
As far as the wheel lock nuts are concerned, no, I don't think you have that right. It's the rotational pull on one of the studs that needs to be 12 lbs. Not 12 ft/lbs on the nut. The initial torque on the inner nut should be 43 ft/lbs. Rotate, slacken off then re torque to 43 then loosen and tighten to 55. It's a bit of a palava. I just tighten everything to give me 12 lbs on the stud.
Rotational load on the swivel housing is around 9lbs IIRC.
That will hopefully answer some of your questions. We've all been there. But the FSM really is a good place to start.
Chris
I said in my reply in your other thread that the Milner swivel bearings were Nachi 
Toyota do use Nachi bearings in some places so they can't be too bad and they are Japanese which also usually means decent quality.
Toyota do use Nachi bearings in some places so they can't be too bad and they are Japanese which also usually means decent quality.
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The ones that I got from Milner were Koyo, but out of the box it's not like they shone with some kind of magical quality. They weren't gold plated nor wrapped in Unicorn's skin. They were just some bearings. As we've said, some seals are best bought from Toyota. But other parts are just fine in aftermarket form.
Chris
Chris
Ok I never tried to fit the bearings from either side but decided not to knock them in the wrong way round to be sure. I have read that many articles on the obvious websites and its hard to remember who said what! I'll go ahead and fit the trunions as the originals area bit worn and then I'll buy some koyo spares for overlanding.
Have to say of all the spares I'd take on a major trip, swivel bearings aren't one of them. Change them now and again in another 100k. Top and bottoms are the same, so if you really do want to take spares, I'd take 1. Even if they get rough, they are not likely to fail critically. Now wheel bearings, I'd take a pair. But swivel bearings? They do an important job, but they do it well and easily. Set them up right and they go for years. It's probably the case that doing lots of steering is good for them. My truck stood for 8 years and the outer races developed clear notches in them. As Andrew said. Keep them moving and that's far less likely to occur.
Chris
Chris
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It all came to light with me when I jacked up the front axle and turned the steering. It was biased towards the centre. When I turned each hub independantly without the tierod on they were almost stuck in the dead ahead position. On stripping there were big grooves in the outer races but still preload. I chickened out of 12lbs as it stretched the hub by about .030" so I went for 6lbs. No probs so far.
Frank
Frank
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Hi
I cannot rember the exact measurement but the theory is the same.
When I assembled the hub and did the top screws up untill there was no play in the trunnion bearings there was a gap of .030" above the shims. When I fully tightened the bolts untill the gap went the preload was correct but I was not happy with this much stretching of the hub, even though correct by Toyota statement. Just me. Any preload on the bearings must meen that the hub is being stretched.
Frank
I cannot rember the exact measurement but the theory is the same.
When I assembled the hub and did the top screws up untill there was no play in the trunnion bearings there was a gap of .030" above the shims. When I fully tightened the bolts untill the gap went the preload was correct but I was not happy with this much stretching of the hub, even though correct by Toyota statement. Just me. Any preload on the bearings must meen that the hub is being stretched.
Frank
Allchin
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frank rabbets said:
I noticed the gap before getting the correct tension, but blindly followed the toyoya FSWM as gosple! You have to think why Toyota says this..... There is a lot of leaverage on these small bearings, the distance from the bearing to the centerline of the tyre. If the pressure is not enough the leaverage will tend to slide the bearings vertically, when hitting bumps etc, creating the centering effect on the bearings..... just my logical thoughts.
Stephen
Just came across this chap and his series of You Tube vids on rebuilding the 80 front axle. OK I have one or two points I'd put to him over a light ale and a packet of Mini Cheddars, but essentially if you haven't done the job and want to actually SEE what it's like to do, watch these short clips. Just make sure you use CV grease inside the axle housing, eh.
Chris
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3CI4mmEv6A&feature=fvsr
Chris
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3CI4mmEv6A&feature=fvsr
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It's been removed [unless it's my computer] so perhaps he put it back together wrong.
Frank
Frank
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S'ok now.
Frank
Frank
Hi friend, i'm new in forum. In my last trip to Tunisia I had problems with the right front hub bearings, I replaced them with the original ones Toyota (in Tunisia cost about 70 euro per pair) and I've never had more problems. Now I have to replace the left wheel. The originals in Italy cost 200 euro, Koyo, for me, are not very durable, at moment i can come back to Tunisia... what to take?
Thanks
Thanks
