Replacing front axle wipers

Chris

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Guys I haven't seen a post on this task before and I have to remove the front axles once again to have a look at my front diff adjustment. As it's a pretty filthy job, I'd really not do it again (after this) ever really! It will be interesting to see how it all looks inside there after I serviced both sides recently. Just nice to see that it all looks like it should. But as I say, not seen a wiper seal replacement thread before. Are they replaced from the outside or are they split somehow to go over the axle? Do you have to remove all of the swivel hub too - ie top and bottom pins and all? I have a feeling that the answer coming back is going to be - yes. All the gubbins has to come off. I don't think I have a problem with them at the moment, but if it's easy enough I may as well get it done.

Regards

Chris
 

Andrew Prince

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If that's all you're doing, you could cut the rubber and felt seals and pop them around the axle without stripping the knuckle off - I've seen reports of people doing this as a quick "cheat". But obviously the seals were designed to be complete, so it would be less efficient/effective. As you're opening the knuckle to pull the halfshafts, it isn't that much extra work to remove the knuckle while you're there.
 

Chris

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Thanks fellas. I don't know what sort of life the seals have. Obviously they are not oils seals, just barriers and wipers. They are working well at the present it would appear.

Thanks for confirming what I thought.

Chris
 
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Julian Voelcker

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If you are heading that way take the knucke off and check the swivel bearings - these always tend to get ignored during axle services and usualy need to be replaced because they have been so neglected.
 

Chris

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Hi Julian, I don't know how easy wear is to detect in the swivel bearings (I have some in stock ready) but when I stripped and cleaned the hubs recently, I wiggled, jiggled, levered and prodded the swivels and got no movement in them at all in any direction. They seemed really smooth and operating well. Like I say, I have bearings and shims in my box of essential spares just in case. I might just leave the whole job for now. It's going to be a pretty low mileage truck and I have spent a lot of time and money so far straightening it all out. Front diff, BEBs and starter motor strip down are all that's really left on my worksheet. Oh and the odd throbbing idle that I sometimes get which rocks the vehicle. i would like the injectors checking at some point. But having had 24mpg on a long run I don't think that they can be that bad.

Be in touch re the BEBs. Just done an oil change so will let that run for a bit before I drop the pan. Only on 104k at present.

Chris
 

Julian Voelcker

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Actual wear in the swivels will be difficult to detect until they are really bad, but if you swap worn ones you will notice the difference immediately when driving.

Ironically the worst I ave ever come across were on my truck about 4 years ago when checking the wheel bearings the whole knuckle clunked back and forth :o

Usually the bearings are severely pitted and also they wear a straight ahead pattern.
 

Toby

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Hi Chris,

I'd agree with Julian, it's well worth checking the swivel bearings. If they need replacing make sure you get the correct spec 13 roller bearings. Some sources might tell you to fit twelve roller versions, which are usually cheaper (or at least easier to get hold of) but they won't last.

There'susually no need to replace the wiper seals unless the inner axle seals need doing anyway...

All the best,
Toby
 

Chris

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Hi Toby. My spare bearings are OEM Toymota. They'll do for me. No idea how many rollers in there. I am guessing that they'd be the right ones that you describe. I have done the whole axle rebuild thing including wheel bearings seal, star washers, CVs grease and a partridge in a pear tree. I couldn't detect any wear whatsoever in the swivel bearings. I had it lock to lock etc. It drives beautifully. No vagueness or shimmy at all. Nothing under braking either. I presume that the oil pouring out of the axle past the seals kept them well lubed!!!!! When the seals no longer seem to be wiping the balls, I shall have a look at the lot. But not tempted to fanny about with it just now when it all seems good.

Thanks for the heads up on the cheaper swivel bearings. Checked all the bottom bolts last night. Everything seemed good still.

Chris
 

Dave Burgess

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I did this when I changed my axle oil seal. The wiper seal parts come in two halves except the neoprene/rubber ring. The felt and bolting face are two and overlap and the spring steel inner seal support has a split which goes at the top and is clamped by the seal the felt and outer metal parts. You could cut the rubber seal, but I don't know if it would last without rucking up.

The swivel bearings don't move a full roller circumference in their races so tend to wear a groove in the race and then the roller goes oval. It's not a difficult job if done when it's all apart, but make sure you have the shims at the ready (it's not that sensitive to preload but always good to do properly). As always, Toyo gen or the supplier direct, in this case Koyo (Timken didn't list when I looked).

As long as there is enough grease in it now, the oil previously may have helped but my top bearing were the worst worn.

Good luck, as you know it's a very messy job :shifty:
 

Chris

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Cheers Dave. That's a useful insight. I have a shim set too. Short of nothing in my kit box. Courtesy of some chappie by the name of Mr Rubie.

Chris
 

Andrew Prince

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Dave Burgess said:
The wiper seal parts come in two halves except the neoprene/rubber ring. The felt and bolting face are two and overlap and the spring steel inner seal support has a split which goes at the top and is clamped by the seal the felt and outer metal parts. You could cut the rubber seal, but I don't know if it would last without rucking up.
Ahem, not quite true there, Dave. What about the felt seal - no split there? You would need to cut both the felt and rubber seals to fit them without removing the knuckle. The only part that comes in 2 halves as you've described is the metal flange/bracket. Anyway, this has all been posted previously on this thread :think:
 

Chris

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I have brand new metal plates sitting in the box, but they are both identical. Struck me as odd, are they not left and right handed as a pair. I don't mean left and right on the vehicle, I mean in the pair. Doesn't look like they fit together.

C
 

Andrew Prince

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You're talking about the black backing plates/brackets, Chris? If so, the ends overlap and the bolts lock them together. They are identical, so other than lining them up with the bolt holes and faffing around getting the bolts in while holding the 2 pieces together, there's nothing to it.
 

Dave Burgess

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Andrew Prince said:
[quote="Dave Burgess":3ej1cial]The wiper seal parts come in two halves except the neoprene/rubber ring. The felt and bolting face are two and overlap and the spring steel inner seal support has a split which goes at the top and is clamped by the seal the felt and outer metal parts. You could cut the rubber seal, but I don't know if it would last without rucking up.
Ahem, not quite true there, Dave. What about the felt seal - no split there? You would need to cut both the felt and rubber seals to fit them without removing the knuckle. The only part that comes in 2 halves as you've described is the metal flange/bracket. Anyway, this has all been posted previously on this thread :think:[/quote:3ej1cial]


The felt seals from Toyota MD in Belfast May 10 came in two parts, matching the black metal interlocking keeper plates, as I said, the only bit that was whole as a ring was the rubber ring. The felt joins top and bottom and the black ring front/rear (90 degrees to the felt). The four black metal bits are the same.
 

Andrew Prince

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I stand corrected, Dave!! All of the ones I have seen, Toyota OEM and Milner's Finest, have been complete rings of felt.
 

Dave Burgess

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Probably just a case of Toyota making it cheaper :thumbup: for them :thumbdown: :lol: . Now they can do it in half and hour but charge 4 hours at MD rates :naughty:

I'm off to fit a winch and bumper.... :dance:
 

Andy Harvey

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You can cut the rubber seal but make sure the cut doesn't line up with the other gaps and would be good once it is around the axle to put a dab of superglue and join the two halfs together carefully making sure they line up. This isn't for long term but to make sure it is in position accurately while you bolt it up - doesn't need to be glued together for longterm use.

Don't overtighten the bolts that hold it all on though - it's easy to strip them and then it is a swivel off job to retap the thread.
 
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