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Rust

karl webster

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So I've been welding my 80 up recently that has been off the road for 5 years.

What are people using to prevent /treat rust? It's quite shabby underneath and I've got to clean it off and treat it with something.

Thanks
 
I've tried all sorts but Aquasteel is my new favourite because its just so easy
 
I've also been using Aquasteel on for a while now a and I'm impressed with it. On chassis and axles etc I usually follow up with motorcycle chain lube of some description. Aquasteel leaves a hard resin coating that can be painted easily if preferred.
 
Thanks guys. Whys it so easy? What preps needed?

Wheres the best place to buy it?

thanks
 
I've previously been using Jenolite which comes in a 750ml bottle and carries a heavy price tag over a tenner or closer to 15 quid.

After watching many repairs on youtube many use phosphoric acid descaler. Which is the active ingredient of the small bottles.


This is what I bought and you get 5 litres for £17.50... does exactly the same as the expensive snake oils that come in the small containers!

A great saving when you have a large area to cover, you still have to loosen the rust first though..
 
It converts rust turning it black and acts like black paint where there is no rust so you could just degrease and lash it on with a 9" paint brush . Took a bit of googling to find it i stock a couple of month ago ?
 
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Pressure washer to get rid of the salts, dry couple of days in hot sunlight and then tons of new engine oil or ep90. Used engine oil has chemical contaminants but used axle or gearbox oil is OK.
 
Karl someone referred me to you on another thread. New here, not sure how to PM you, but would you happen to have a sunroof, or at least the framed glass panel, for a 1990 80 series please?
 
Was using Aquasteel for years, wouldn't go near it now after the last lot, - that went down the bog.
Use Granville now, much better coverage and results.
Most of these solutions look the same but there is a difference, and good prep is essential whatever you use, not just a quick wire brush and go.
Loads of threads on the subject.
 
I’ve been using Fertan while restoring my old golf gti, it turns the rust black with a chemical reaction. This leaves you a suitable surface to paint over.

Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 or Deox Gel get good reviews
 
Many many hours of reading is nudging me towards this stuff when its time to do it properly


Jury is still out on top coat
 
After pressure washing / drying what is the best way to prep the chassis before applying whatever coating?
How derusted does it need to be?
 
Thats what i've been looking at Ben which eventually led me to the coo-var stuff , chemically fused zinc seems to me like a double barrel approach . Zinc is supposed to have magical anti rust properties and as far as i can tell its acid etched to become part of the metal .

So i would hope on annual inspection you would be touching up where the top coat has been chipped to reveal undercoat rather than metal ?

Only way to get old steel clean is to polish it so smooth and shiney that no paint would stick to it so i wouldn't overthink it the wire brush removed the rust and left a good key for paint to grip on .
 
After pressure washing / drying what is the best way to prep the chassis before applying whatever coating?
How derusted does it need to be?

From memory... I got the worst of the surface rust off with a wire brush (hand, drill, angle grinder). Used two coats of rust converter on what was left. Cleaned the chassis with paint prep spray, went over with a scotch brite pad to provide a key for the paint, then two coats of rust encapsulator and two top coats of ceramic 2 pack paint.

Also cleaned out the inside of the chassis rails and cross members (glad I'm not on a water meter), painted the inside of them with a rust encapsulator.

Then lanoguard over the whole lot!
 
As per Karl above, but used a few different finishing products.
You need rust for any of those types to work, but it must not be loose or flakey and be thoroughly degreased. A very lengthy amount of dirty messy work for lots of gain and peace of mind.
I think this thread will run like other long ones before, on different products and experiences.
 
As it happens I stopped at Krown for a top up on way to Brecon Beacons. I did the full treatment a few months back and was asked to drop by for a top up after 6 months, so as I was passing through...

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Thanks very much for all your advice guys. All body cavities have been done so its just the chassis to do. I want to do the best job I can as It gets driven all year round. Without a garage it would be best to get on with it soon during the sunmer.
I will start at the back as that’s the worst, but hopefully get it all done in one go. All chassis legs were replaced last year so with a good coating it should then last indefinitely.
I was thinking about spraying gear oil inside the chassis after its all cleaned out as Im not confident of being able to get full coverage in there with painting.
 
Some have used motorcycle chain lube as it sticks and my own question is chainsaw bar oil suitable as that stuff is like a snotty spiderweb anybody used that question mark
 
He's a champ, that Rob at Krown. I got stranded in Dudley one night and called him up out of the blue to see if there was any chance of a top-up. 9am I was on the ramp.
 
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