Save an 80

[Shayne]

Because mine is about ready to meet my sledgehammer over a poxy broken belt .

This don't work

I eventually cracked the top pulley bolt using heat cold water so i could remove the aircon belt to fit the alternator belts . But there is no adjustment at the alternator to be had so i can't get the belts on even with the adjuster bolt and the rest rattling loose . Patience is gone it can sit for another week before i try again .

 

[StarCruiser]

This should help you Shayne.

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/alternator-joy-not.149254/unread

I've just looked at the vid. They make no mention of the fact that (on mine at least) there is an adjuster, similar to the top one they slackened off on the idler for the AC belt. It's not easily visible but acts on the movable bolt on the top of the alternator. It sticks straight out horizontally towards the RHS at the top front of the alternator IIRC.

Please put the sledgehammer away somewhere behind Helen!!

 

[Shayne]

Yes the alternator belt adjuster has a 13mm lock nut almost behind the pulley , Then you need a 17mm spanner to loosen the main bolt holding it to the block so the alternator can tilt/swing when you tighten/loosen on the adjuster nut .

So three bolts all slack it it doesn't move .

 

[StarCruiser]

Somewhere in the other thread is mention of the sliding tube that pulls up against the alternator on its main pivot bolt.

It also says to remove the 4 bolts that hold the AC compressor and gently move that out the way on its hoses to get a better look at the alternator. Maybe something's either stuck or it could have something jammed down behind it in somebody's attempt at tightening the belt.

 

[Julian T]

Mine did not have an adjuster when I bought her, just a bolt clamping the bracket, gave me cause to embellish my vocabulary when I changed the belts for the first time, after that I paid a visit to steven eagle and bought a replacement adjuster assembly.

Yes the alternator belt adjuster has a 13mm lock nut almost behind the pulley , Then you need a 17mm spanner to loosen the main bolt holding it to the block so the alternator can tilt/swing when you tighten/loosen on the adjuster nut .

So three bolts all slack it it doesn't move .

There is a fourth bolt, 90 degrees to the locking bolt and lower hinge bolts, it allows you to adjust the tension of the belts, runs through the block the adjuster is in.

https://static.baza.farpost.ru/v/1445827340753_bulletin

That is a picture of the adjuster bar, without the bolt for securing the alternator, these two part numbers may help, 16381-17010 (adjuster bar) and 16385-17010 (block)

Possibly this whole arrangement is concealed by the air con compressor? I say this because I don't have air con on my truck.

Edit, found this IMAGE, it might be helpful although it is for a petrol so the image is flipped.

If you already know all this and I have not been able to help, is it possible that the ally of the alternator has suffered some electrolysis to the cast iron of the block and bolt?
perhaps some penetrating oil or a bit of judicious application of heat may assist?

You are approximately a 6 hour round trip for me and I would be prepared to pop round with a large hammer and assist you, joking, I am at a lose end tomorrow and my tools are to hand if you really need a hand, or some one to help you drink coffee.

 

[Towpack]

The adjuster lock 'nut' on mine is a hex key. You cannot slacken the belts using the adjusting bolt on the end of the adjuster, only tighten them as the alternator is a very tight fit in the lower mounting bracket, at least it is on mine. You have to slacken ALL the mounting bolts plus the adjuster bolt and move the alternator closer in towards the engine block with either your hand (not easy) a pry bar or by tapping it with a careful use of a soft mallet. With the alternator pushed right in, fitting even new belts is easy.
I also removed the aircon compressor and lifted it up out of the way.

 

[Shayne]

This is what i have and it's the top bolt on the generator i obviously haven't seen . Seeing it here with a clear view the belt can't actually be adjusted as it has a fixed point bolt top and bottom and so the adjuster is only there to help realign the fixed point mounting holes .

Thank you kindly guys my sanity may return with a little sleep , it was the assumption that it should be as easy as making a cuppa to change a belt that killed my patience , the aircon pulley bolt lock nut had seized tight enough to convince me i would be buying new parts before i was done which killed my appetite for the job before i even got started .

 

[Julian T]

Always happy to offer advice, armchair quarter backing is the best
Don't forget that image is for a petrol and is upside down, compared to the diesel, the adjuster is on top on the diesel, but I am sure you have noticed that lol,
And as always this is a great forum for advice and help, I find pictures say a thousand words mostly.

 

[StarCruiser]

the belt can't actually be adjusted as it has a fixed point bolt top and bottom and so the adjuster is only there to help realign the fixed point mounting holes .

Not quite Shayne, with the top bolt just slack in the adjuster it does move the alternator back and forth to tighten the belts. It's all accessible without removing the AC compressor but more by feel than anything.

If it's any consolation I had exactly the same when I first attempted what you are doing long before I knew this forum existed. The 80 is the first vehicle I have ever come across that has bolts to tension the belt such is the level of quality in these trucks.

 

[frank rabbets]

After you have adjusted the belts to the correct tension you may find that they are loose after just 30 seconds of the engine running so don't leave it too long before checking. It's the initial rotation and tension that pulls them in to the pulley grooves. Then check again after 500 miles. That's what I found with mine anyway.

 

[Shayne]

Joy of joys it moved , right before the adjuster bolt snapped so the whole alternator has to come off anyway .

 

[frank rabbets]

What a F3333333g bitch Shayne. ( A term written in the WSM for such events long before PC came). Sorry to hear this. Sounds like those bolts have not moved for years. I always grease bolts on reassembly thinking " why am I bothering, won't be here again for years". But then time flies and I'm so glad I did. I've always greased wheel bolts on all cars I've ever had and have never had one come lose.

 

[StarCruiser]

Same here Frank. The Copper ease tin gets plenty of outings.

 

[Shayne]

I replace them with stainless Frank but it will likely be Wednesday before i get another , never mind i don't much mind playing the contortionist and musical spanners when things make sense and hey a half tank of fuel is looking to last about 3 months the way things are going .

No hurry now so with all the bolts removed and the unit refusing to come out i'm having a cuppa while google tells me the bottom bolt hole might be sleeved and acting like a retaining pin .

 

[StarCruiser]

Try gently (no sedgehammers!) knocking or levering the alternator rear wards as there is a short sleeve that butts up against the back of the lower rear alternator bolthole.

 

[Shayne]

It's out , or loose anyway , fingers were too numb to get the electrical connector off and fearing i would bust it with pliers and in the surety i won't get a new bolt quickly i left it so i can dig out my heat gun tomorrow see if i can put some life/flexibility back into the plastic before fighting with it .

Incidentally i started using bright zinc galvanize spay on bolts and wetting them with red rubber grease as a sort of two way protection against rust .

 

[Julian T]

I normally use copper slip on the bolt threads on reassembly.
I should add, never use copper slip on rubber, caliper sliders or similar as it dries out and can cause problems, however on bolt threads it will help prevent electrolysis and corrosion and in a "sealed" environment will stay "wet".