Hmmmmmm... I could show you a shim from a cam follower out of a Nissan, 80K
with routine oil and filter changes but... it has a big groove where the cam
lobe runs, obviously it wasn't rotating like it should but even if it wasn't
rotating surly I shouldn't see much wear. Worrying even on a Nissan.
Discussions has been a little deep and there are plenty of other forums
discussing the same thing but the jist is generally all oils aren't the
same, stick with the OEM recommendation but be aware that the API equivalent
is not always 100% match for say a Japanese JASO spec and also although
later API ratings are touted as better it is not always the case, sometimes
the older, (cheaper) oil has more of what you engine needs.
1975 FJ45 Pickup (In Work)
1) Engine oil, It matters not what oil is used as long as it is of good
=> Thank you Dick for this opinion I'm totaly sharing with you.
I know there's indeed differences between oil brands, fuel brands, ... but I
personnaly believe that these differences are relatively small (neglactable)
for the type of engine we have and how most of us use there cruisers (these
are not race engines and they are very rarely abused more than Toyota
designed them for).
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A lot of oil companies in NZ were of the opinion for a while (I hope
they have changed by now) that any old junk oil will do in a japanese
diesel engine as they only request an oil meeting CC or CD specs. What
they failed to notice is that is JASO CC or CD which are about as
different to API CC or CD as car is to a push bike yes they both have
wheels. In NZ the OEM reccomendation does not generally come from the
OEM (for example you can't buy genuine Toyota diesel oil in NZ, if you
ask the parts department to order it in they refuse) it comes from
Toyota NZ or a franchisee who generally gets it froma local oil company.
If they do not have an appropiate oil do they say so no way. They
reccomend whatever they feel like that is in the ball park and if the
oil is inappropiate no one will know and any failures are likely to
occur (but not alway's) outside the warranty period. That may not sound
nice but that is how it really is here anyway.
Malcolm Bagley wrote:
** Message reposted on behalf of Lio **
From: "Malcolm Bagley" <[Email address removed]>
=> Malcom, I agree with your statments.
Nissan, I did find some swarf from manufacturing present in the head,
but wear in the cam / followers is often oil related and as there was
no sign of overheating from lack of oil so the suspicion is that the
oil broke down and provided inadequate lubrication.
=> What I have seen is camshaft wear due to lack of oil due to
insufficent oil pressure + LACK of oil temp AT IDLE.
Diesel engines tend to cool down "too much" when ran at idle for an
extended period of time, if on top of that you add a poor lubrication
of the top of the engine at idle, you quickly get cams and camshaft
bearing wear. I record Toyota B engines are prone to that kind of wear,
if you let them idle too long and too often of course.
I recall a story on DTLC where UPS delivery trucks were fitted with 3B
engines which lost all their power around 50K miles! Apparently due to
the long idle periods these trucks were seeing.
That's why I personnaly don't let my truck idle when cold to warm it
up. I rather start it, let it run dle for 30sec then drive on light
throttle till it warms up. I see too often people starting their diesel
cold and let it idle for 5 to 10min (while finishing their coffee or
loading the trunck...), thinking it's good to let it warm up before
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1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift