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Silviu's HDJ100

Even if I find a different one it's different than the current one and it might not work.
The injection pump service told me that the current pump it's different from the original.
It has a pre-injection step and the original doesn't have.
Could it be that it has changed while the modding was added? It has a power box that supposedly adds 25% more power when engaged, but I never used it yet.

I got a more reasonable price for the a new original pump from a different supplier at around 3500Euro.
But I don't know if it will work given the mod.
 
I'm not fimilar with the 100 series but I'm sure many others here are. A few pictures posted could help understand where you are with this?
 
It seems a bit radical to take out the IP until you have checked all external signals and sensors, cabling, and, most important: the ECU. What I'm saying is that the problem might not be in the IP at all.
See attached troubleshooting guide.

PS:
You are spread out on 3 different threads with this problem, so when I don't know where to write, I just skip it... Anyhow, now I've polluted all 3 :)
 

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Thank you for the guide.
I getting conflicting information from all over the place so I don't know what to think anymore.
If the IP repair shop says that the IP is defective, could they try to screw me over?
I think I will not do the repair and put in back and see what happens and try to ask someone to check the ECU ( which I agree should have been done in the first place).

PS: I'm trying to ask all over the place because I'm not finding the answers that I need. Sorry for that
 
Look behind the glove box and check the ecu visually. 99.8% of all faults are from water ingress around windscreen, and that would be visible a corrosion, either on ecu or on plug.
Next is to measure signalling between ecu and sensors and EDU.
If you really have a new type of IP and an old type ECU, you should try to find out if that is an issue. If you don't get a better answer here, I think the best place to search is on the Australian LCOOL forum, a members only forum. Au is where they have the highest concentration of diesel landcruisers. Mud's diesel forum could also help btw, lotsa Canadian oilers on there.
 
Hello,

I haven't posted in a while.
I went to South America and now the car is returning home.
However I have a problem with the battery. I need a jump start every time I leave the car stopped for even a few hours.

Is there a way I can tell if the batteries are dead ( I have two) or somehow there is something draining the battery that much?

I have to pick it up from France and I'm trying to arrange a transport by trailer but seems difficult.
If I could know for sure that if I replace the batteries the car would work normally I would drive it myself back to Romania.
 
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Yes, what Flint suggested is good to test the battery condition but there’s other things to try. With a multimeter set on Volts and the engine running, test across the battery posts actually on the lead posts for the voltage. It should read 14.4v after starting. If it is less, try across the terminals that are on the battery posts. If no different then try wiggling the plug on the back of the alternator and see if the voltage improves. Take the cap off the big connection on your alternator and test from there to the engine block. Again the voltage should be 14.4 or slightly more. Again try wiggling the plug. If still nothing near the 14.4v then you will probably need a new alternator but check the belts first.

In this situation, I would buy two new batteries in France and a Ctek battery charger. Keep the old batteries and fit the new ones. You will get some miles out of them and if the alternator charging voltage is 14.4v then job done. If not then you may need to stop and charge the batteries. To be sure, you may need to take an alternator and V belt with you from a supplier in Romania and perhaps see if you can return it if you don’t need it.

At least it should be cheaper than arranging a trailer and you will at least have new batteries to show for it.
 
Lots of 100's been having alternator problems in the last 2 years. And judging by the near complete lack of these problems before 2016, I wonder if it's a thing
 
Lots of 100's been having alternator problems in the last 2 years. And judging by the near complete lack of these problems before 2016, I wonder if it's a thing
Well, I suppose they don’t last forever. At least they don’t burn to a crisp with alarming regularity like the Lawn Rover ones. :icon-rolleyes:
 
Yes, what Flint suggested is good to test the battery condition but there’s other things to try. With a multimeter set on Volts and the engine running, test across the battery posts actually on the lead posts for the voltage. It should read 14.4v after starting. If it is less, try across the terminals that are on the battery posts. If no different then try wiggling the plug on the back of the alternator and see if the voltage improves. Take the cap off the big connection on your alternator and test from there to the engine block. Again the voltage should be 14.4 or slightly more. Again try wiggling the plug. If still nothing near the 14.4v then you will probably need a new alternator but check the belts first.

In this situation, I would buy two new batteries in France and a Ctek battery charger. Keep the old batteries and fit the new ones. You will get some miles out of them and if the alternator charging voltage is 14.4v then job done. If not then you may need to stop and charge the batteries. To be sure, you may need to take an alternator and V belt with you from a supplier in Romania and perhaps see if you can return it if you don’t need it.

At least it should be cheaper than arranging a trailer and you will at least have new batteries to show for it.

Just to add a bit to Richard's @StarCruiser 's post, if youre not getting the 14.2V with the engine running, don't immediately blame the alternator.

I has the same issue, bought 2 new Varta batteries and when they were only showing 12.6V charge the battery guy was assuring me the batteries were good and the alternator needed changing.

I then took it to GTC and they tested the new batteries and they were dud.

They kindly fitted 2 new Banner batteries on a sale-or-return basis to try for 30 days. They worked perfectly.

I took the Vartas back to the battery guy and insisted on a refund. He was a pain in the ass, arguing that they were ok, he even "tested" them with a meteor showing 11.9V (disconnected from the truck) and verified them as good :lol:.

I kept insisting on a refund and refusing to remove them from his premises. Eventually he gave in and refunded me, and the Banners have been on the truck ever since (about 18 months if I remember correctly).

The charge Voltage has been steady since then at between 14.3V and 14.0V and I've had no problems.

I hate electrickery, it's a black art to me and sadly the experts are always willing to dupe you.

Only a dead-load test will verify the batteries, the Volt multimeter test is good to verify the charge Volts, as Richard suggested. I suggest you take his advice but buy batteries from a reputable seller, not an onion seller on his bike. :lol:
 
BTW if I've said something stupid above, someone please correct me... :doh:
 
Thanks for your answers,

Current batteries are Banner 80Ah bought a few years back.
Alternator was serviced in august 2017.
The car has been sitting 10 months in Uruguay, and there was plenty of corrosion on the car.
Maybe something got defective or there is some short-circuit somewhere.

My fear is that the actual problem could be hard to trace-back.
If I can't solve the issue I'm in real trouble :)
That's why I wanted to arrange a trailer.

On top of everything on Saturday I got my driving license suspended for 30 days. And I should pick-up the car on 4th March.
 
We’re the batteries disconnected for the 10 months Silviu? If not they will have been over discharged by the car. It also sounds like it was chained to the deck rather than put in a shipping container or left by the Sea for the 10 months.

Difficult to be certain there won’t be any other faults but seeing as we are talking about a 100 series Landcruiser, I would expect everything that was ok to still be ok as the electrics are very well sealed. If the batteries as I suspect have been over discharged they won’t take a charge unless bench charged with a Ctek and could well have been damaged beyond repair.

Anything like this is a bit of a gamble but I’d say 80% plus you’ll be ok with new batteries.
 
The cars was sitting outside 4km from the Ocean.
The batteries have been disconnected but maybe they got damaged anyway.
The person that was watching over the car said at some point the batteries had 6V.
He put them on a wall charger for 2 days.

I hope new batteries will do it. But I can't take the risk of not being able to drive the car.
Legally it's not even possible to drive it because my Periodic Technical Inspection (ITP) is expired and can't be done in France.
 
At 6v a 12v battery is almost certainly beyond saving.
 
Dobrý den, mám stejný problém s chybou P1420 a P1670. Jak jste potom problém vyřešili? v čem byl problém? děkuji
 
hello, i have the same problem with error P1420 and P1670. How did you fix the problem then? what was the problem? thanks Michal
 
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