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Snorkel fitment write-up for my 1989 LJ70


New Member
Sep 12, 2019
Guys - I thought I would share how I got a snorkel fitted to my 1989 LJ70 with a 2LT-E engine. This is a vehicle originally sold in the UK.

There were a few complications caused by the fact I own a 1989 (round headlight) model but we managed to work through them and documented everything below - if I had a 1990–95 model (square headlights) it would have been simpler.

First I ordered a Bravo ST-70 from Spain for EUR 199: BRAVO SNORKEL TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 70 SERIES (1985 - 2007) - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]
The supplier exchanged emails in English and they were helpful – answered all my questions.

Fitting the snorkel to the vehicle’s outer wing/A pillar was fairly straightforward:
  • Remove the Landcruiser badge
  • Remove the external repeater (passed MOT since removing)
  • The snorkel comes with a template/pattern: drill the holes for the bolts and use a hole saw on the outer wing for the flexible air duct


NOT INCLUDED IN THE BOX was some double-sided foam tape which I bought off Amazon to go between the horizontal part of the snorkel and the wing to prevent rubbing off the paint due to vibration.

Now it’s time to get the flexible duct from the snorkel to the airbox – and this is where I had the first complication.

The original airbox in my 1989 LJ70 has the intake on the right hand side but the snorkel is fitted to the left hand side. See original:


@iwan_t24 from this forum confirmed that the airbox from the 1990-1995 LJ70 (square headlights) has the intake on the left hand side.

Iwan kindly donated to me an airbox from a later model – see them side by side below:


Now I have a shorter and simpler route for the flexible duct.

As for clearing a route for the duct inside the engine bay - having temporarily moved the voltage regulator out of the way this is what I had:


And after some experimentation with a grinder this is what I ultimately ended up with (note we kept the mounting for voltage regulator):


Spray a bit of paint put on the freshly cut metal to prevent rust

Refit the regulator further forward than originally fitted (now sharing a mounting point with another electrical part) - see photo below

Run the flexible hose through to the “new” airbox:


The internal diameter of the flexible hose was slightly too big for the intake on the airbox but some more foam tape wrapped around the outside of the intake padded it out and created what (I hope) is a watertight seal.

In the photo above note the gaffer tape on the hose from the airbox to the turbo – this was the second complication.

If you swap out the airbox for the later model you also need to get the hose to match because the diameter of the airbox outlet is smaller than on the earlier model.

I ordered Toyota part 17881-54470 from CarMarka in Dubai for USD 32.55 plus shipping and handling: Car Spare Parts & Auto Accessories - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club] (took a couple of weeks to arrive)

The new hose fitted the airbox perfectly, although there was a “hole” in the new hose that needed to be plugged – solved this by buying a 32mm plug from Toolstation for £1: Push Fit Socket Plug 32mm Black - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club] and a bit of glue

So now the job is complete:


And from the outside:


I haven’t waded in any rivers yet but feel pretty confident about the job and will definitely go for it.

I might have forgotten something in this writeup but if there's anything missing just ask.

Thanks to:

Terry McIntosh for doing most of the work and having the balls to cut into the bodywork

Simon Thomson for the extra help

Iwan Thomas for the free airbox – cheers butt!
Last edited:
Sold in uk but definitely not with this engine :)
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Does that fact affect anything in my write-up? Happy to edit it if anything is misleading/incorrect

Not at all, just found it funny ;) Now it's time to add air to water intercooler :) Also 9/10 when swapped to manual pump people don't adjust it properly so worth buying a dial gauge and checking the pump timing.